August 2007
when driving my Almera on motorways or journeys over 20-30 minutes, i lose all power in the engine. When in fifth gear i put my foot to the floor and have no power, i drop down gears and still no power. the engine is still running and hasn't cut out but makes a horrible noise and sounds like a tractor. i have to stop and when i do i get this really strong smell of burning. once i have stopped for 10 mins or so and the engine cools a bit i can continue my journey. All my oil and water levels are fine and my temperature gauge does not rise to suggest over heating.
I took my car to an independant garage yesterday for a diagnostic check and nothing showed up. I have noticed a recall on almera's in 2004 for the following
Recall Ref: R/2004/089
Exact Model: Almera, X-Trail
Description: Possibility that the sprocket bolt at the rear side of the camshaft could break
VIN: JN1TENT20U0000007 to JN1TENT30U0035143
Defect: The timing chain tensioner may become defective, which can result in the timing chain jamming. Should this occur, the engine may stall or fail to start. The condition may also result in the camshaft turning in a non-uniform fashion, which could lead to the failure of the vacuum pump drive, and a reduction in braking assistance.
Launch Date: 23 June 2004
My vin number is not listed. It is a 2004 1.5s first registered june 2004.
Could this be the cause? and if it is although my vin number is not on the recall list can i still get them to fix this free? Read more
Hi
Just wondering if anyone's got any advice regarding the airbag light on my Renault Megane.
The dash is saying my airbag needs a "Service" with a warning light. Unfortunately the local dealer wants to charge £80 just to diagnose (not fix). I think this is outrageous but I think I'm going to have to stump up as my local guy who services my wife's car won't touch it.
Any ideas what I could do? Someone suggested disconnecting the battery for a few minutes - will this muck other things up?
Also the steering whel bearing sounds like it needs attention - could the problems be related?
I'd be grateful for any advice. Read more
I was only looking at a Megane yesterday where the airbag light was on. This was a shed a colleague had just picked up from an auction and wanted my opinion/suggestions as to why the light was on.
Looking in the car it became obvious as the passenger side seat belt buckle was lower than the drivers side, presumably the car had been bumped at some point and set off the passenger seatbelt pre-tensioner.
Worth a look at least.
My 1999 ford focus, hatch, 4dr everything unchanged standard 1.8 zetec (with those zetec alloys) has 195/55/15 tyres is this correct? as i rang kwikfit and the guy said the tyres for my car (after giving reg number) is 195/60/15 now i am really confused which ones do i choose any help, have i been driving around since i got my car with incorrect tyres?
Also any particular tyres which would people recommended on here :-) any help much appreciated
Tweaked to show model and varient - PU Read more
Just Tyres usually have some good deals, I've used them for the past two years.
Dave
I have a Renault Espace Mk3 2.2DCi 2002 that has done 75000 miles and I would like to know if any other Espace Diesel owners viewing this forum have experienced the following.
When coasting up to a stop (usually three or four minutes into a journey) the car stalls, especially up hill. It does not stall at high speed (like some other reports) and it is independent of temperature. The local Renault garage cannot find a reason. The diagnostic check said ?glow plugs? but at least they were honest to admit that that was unlikely to be the cause which saved me a waste of money but I am still none the wiser.
The stalling is not that serious but it could be. The loss of power which until you re-cycle the ignition means that the brakes and steering are much less effective which downhill on a bend leading up to a busy road might cause a scare. Along with all of the other reports on this website I think Renault really should be obliged to make these stalling problems a safety recall. Perhaps they do not know how to fix it.
I have also had the ?loss of power? two or three times since new when the car goes into ?limp mode?. The first was after only 12 months from purchase of the new car. I do not remember what they fixed as it was all under guarantee and I did not get a copy of the paperwork, but I do remember that it took them a few visits to the garage for them to fix the problem. I seem to remember that it might have been the TDC (Top Dead Centre) valve (or adjuster).
More recently, just before the (3 year) guarantee ran out the loss of power happened again and the garage changed the ERG valve about 3 months later when they finally figured out what they thought was wrong. It seems to have done the trick so far. Renault paid 80% of this claiming that if I paid 20% it would be guaranteed for a year. Seemed a reasonable compromise but that year has almost passed now.
My local non-Renault garage thinks that the ERG valve might still be the problem so I am thinking of having it blanked off, like some other respondents in this forum have suggested/done. Anyone able to tell me what they experienced after doing it. The car is booked in for next Friday so I am keen to get feedback before then.
Seems like I should think strongly about getting rid of this car but as I bought it expecting to keep it from new for 10 and possibly 15 years, I am still quite reluctant to do this especially after just paying for the 72000 cambelt change, the 72000 major service, and for coolant and brake fluid changes (not at a Renault garage but using Renault parts and a saving over Renault dealerships of 50% £600 for all this rather than £1200). Apart from the engine problems I think the car is excellent. As Parkers and other second hand car guides now mention the problems with the diesel variants, I expect the second hand value is plummeting like a stone.
It seems from what I have read (on this and other sites) that if I keep the Espace I am looking at a future of a new turbo every 100,000 miles, 4 new injectors every 100,000 miles, ERG valves every 50,000 miles and possibly much more before it gets to even 10 years old, let alone 15 and possibly much sooner. Pity as the bodywork will probably last forever.
Then if I do change the Espace for another car, any suggestions as to what large People Carrier I can buy to match the Espace Grand that will not have similar problems, what about a Renault Espace Petrol?, a Toyota Previa?, a Chrysler Voyager?, a Mercedes ???, a large Volvo?. Do all the modern diesel engines (common rail designs) suffer from the same high failure rates a few years down the line, or is it only Renault that got it so wrong?
Post renamed as suggested (by the OP amongst others) in now hidden replies. As Volume 1 reached 180 posts, this post has become Vol2 - Vol 1(below link) has been locked - continue debate in this one, far more logical than my original edit !
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=24...3
s
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This discussion started a looonnnnggg time ago but will add my two cents nonetheless just to confirm what was said earlier (in case someone else lands here). I had the same problem with my 2002 Espace III DCi, 165k miles, engine cutting out with no fault message, then restarted when flicking the ignition switch off/on, and the Renault garage was not able to find the problem ('time to get rid of the car'). Searching these forums led me to replace all the injectors and the problem was solved.
The Renault garage did do a diagnostic test on the injectors and the result was fine. So this fault (whereby one or more of the injectors returns too much fuel at certain loads as per other forum discussions) is not something the diagnostics pick up, nor does the onboard computer flag the issue as a fault when it happens. The engine simply stops dead with no error message on the dashboard at all....
Setting the marketing aside, when is it really beneficial to use the 97 grade of petrol?
I had a discussion about this with a colleague a while back who was wise in the ways of modern engine coltrollers. I believe his explanation was something along these lines...
- - - -
Ignition timing (I think) is adjusted in order to prevent pre-ignition (knock sensor provides this info). When the load on the engine is greater, so too will be this adjustment. When the adjustment is greatest, fuel efficiency is reduced.
By using 97 in place of 95, the onset of knock is delayed so the engine is able to operate closer to its optimum level for longer and you will get more miles to your gallon.
- - - -
The general rule, I understood from this at the time is that for modern engines (where adustments of this type are made automatically as part of normal operation) you may be better to use 97 when doing long periods of high speed motorway driving with a car load of family or luggage. Around town, on your own in stop start driving, you are wasting your money.
Any truth in this???
Any comments??
Anything from perople who really are in the know? Read more
(a.) Put a few 'out of order' stickers on normal pumps thereby forcing one's hand
Easy enough, but very stupid. Not illegal though - if they haven't got the product you want, you're free to go elsewhere!
(b.) Channel/filter all the 'normal' fuel to the higher-priced pumps thereby charging customers over the
odds...?
Illegal, and a bit difficult as different pumps draw fuel from different underground tanks. When the tanker makes a delivery, you'd have to deliberately put 95-RON into the 97-RON tank. Don't think trading standards would be impressed when they come to take samples (which they do on a regular basis)!!
Does anyone know if a 1999 Honda Accord 1.8i Executive has a OBD diagnostic socket ? I've looked under the dash, behind the ashtray etc but can't see anything. Has the car even got one ? I was under the impression that all post-96 cars had them possibly that is not true.
Also does anyone know how to reset the airbag warning light on this vehicle ?
Any help welcome !
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i love you guys! *_* thank you for srs reset procedure from italy :)
My handbrake doesn't hold very well. I've adjusted the cable (very tight on the 5th notch) but the car still moves down the hill. Removed the hubs, the handbrake levers attached to the trailing shoes aren't seized. I've noticed though that the rest position of the lever on the near side brakes is further up than the other side. There is plenty of lining left (min 2mm, spec is 1 mm). Any ideas? The normal braking performance of the car is perfect. Read more
The adjusters must be clean and DRY;if lubricated won't adjust properly.
Being rather disillusioned with my 2007 Honda CRV (Sport) which has quietly been driving me bonkers, I have been looking at various SUV type vehicles to get some idea of what I could replace it with. Although I have had Honda CRV's since 1997, (four automatics) I get the impression with my current CRV that it is in charge of me, rather than the other way round! Having said that, I must admit the drive is very smooth and a great improvement on previous models.
I suppose in real terms I find my current CRV too large and awkward compared with earlier models (although it is, in fact, shorter etc.)
I have read HJ's admirable road test of the Qashqai and extensive reader reviews on another magazine website (which I guess I had better not mention!) and everyone has nothing but praise for the car. In fact, I have never seen such glowing reviews.
I would be very interested to learn the views and experiences of forum Qashqai owners, please.
Personally, I think I would go for the Acenta 2.0i 4WD CVT6 model. Any comments?
PS. What sort of spare wheel has the car got, please? (If any)
NB. I may have made a duplicate post on this item. Apologies if so. I find this site somewhat confusing these days. Read more
Hi Tony_b and BettyBo
<blockquote>and last weekend my drivers interior door handle snapped. I had thought this part was metal but seems Nissan prefer plastic with chrome on</blockquote>...
My brother in law has bought a jeep cherokee 4.0 V6 limited edition. Are there any common faults or problems with this car Read more
lol not that bad. ask a www.jeepforum.com
Forgive me if this has been suggested before, but would it be worth retightening the cylinder head bolts routinely every 40,000 miles or so?
Many years ago I had a Passat GL5. When it got to 120,000 miles and wasn't worth very much I heard that head gaskets sometimes failed from then on. So with nothing much to lose I uncracked the head bolts in turn and retorqued them. It was still going strong at nearly 200,000 when I eventually sold it although it did barely 1000m per litre of oil by then.
I suppose head gaskets fail because the cylinder head is no longer squeezed firmly against the block. Repeated expansion and contraction presumably stretches the bolts very slightly, and if the distance between the threads and the heads of the bolts is great, the stretching will be more pronounced.
Might it be as important to do this at 100,000m on any engine as changing the cam belt? Read more
What very little true Skoda design there is on my car as opposed to rehashed obsolescent VAG (complete with cock-ups), would confirm this.
659.
did u get this fix i have a b15 nissan and it give me same problem now