August 2007
I have just bought my daughter a 1.1 Saxo SX. All fine, except the heater blower in the car doesn't work. When the switch is turned on, the engine revs reduce which I assume means that power is getting through to the switch, but not activating the blower.
Not being very car mechanically minded, is this a common fault? Is it likely to be the fan is seized or possibly something else? Any help would be very gratefully received.
Thank you
Richard1159
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I've just purchased a Vauxhall Movano van and whilst the gear change works perfectly well and goes into/out of gear without problems, the changing feels rather "loose" and "vague". Is this down to worn/stretched linkages? The gear lever is linked to the gear box with what looks like "bicycle brake cables" (sorry its late and I cannot find the appropriate name for them :) )
Is this a maintenance issue I can deal with myself, i.e tighten up or replace the linkages?
Thanks, Dan Read more
Dan
Yes those Renaults do get that way once they've done some serious miles. New Bowden cables might help; but the slackness may be everywhere.
Got a strange fault on a micra headlight one side. 12v is present when I check with meter but when the bulb is put back it drops to 0v. Suspect a dry joint somwhere on that side wiring.
Haynes manual refers to a dim/dip unit that I want to trace but I cant find it. Haynes as usual does not show where it is.
Any ideas appreciated? Read more
No problem - am only "experienced and helpful" when it comes to Nissans though! Dim/dip relay is a common fault on a lot of Nissans, glad you got it sorted.
I've just purchased a van that came fitted with a tachograph and I'm worried that I've let myself in for trouble. The vehicle is a 3.5t gross, so doesn't need a tacho by law, but I've been told some fleet companies use them on standard vans. For a start, I haven't a clue how to use the thing, or what all the controls on it do. When I come to take the vehicle for an mot in a few months time, are they going to insist I have calibration/checks done on the tacho, or can it just be ignored?
Are there any sites on the net that take you through the operation of the things?
Thanks,
Dan Read more
Thinking a bit more about it, they would not be able to get out of the working time directive, so they would have to stop for 30 minutes after 6 hours of work now, just like we all have to.
I have driven both and what like to hear peoples views on what they believe is the better engine?
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Bear in mind that this thread was started in August 2007, and that the 2.0 engine being considered was the PD.
Since 2009 VW, followed with some delay by Skoda, have been replacing it with the CR engine, which is quieter and smoother, but hasn't been around for long enough for a judgement to be made on whether it can cope as well with six-figure mileages as the 1.9 TDI.
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nick: "I assume the cooling coils must be warmed periodically to melt the ice"
On one type, yes:
home.howstuffworks.com/question144.htm
On the other type, air is actively blown around the freezer and is dehumidified outside the freezer. This means there is no moisture there in the first place to freeze into ice. The downside is that anything left unwrapped for long enough (e.g. the home-made burgers I barbecued on Sunday) will dry out and be pretty much inedible through dessication.
V
1995 K11 Micra. It has just failed it's MOT due to CV joint boot problems. I guess that this is the rubber shroud over the CV joint.
LH CV boot has a split.
RH CV boot is not atttached securely.
The CV joint/driveshaft seems to work OK.
Question: What causes these splits etc.? Potholes. Or just rubber perishing with time?
Question: How much to fix this? MOT garage quoted 200 quid. Local garage quoted 90 to a 100 quid. I was told that both driveshafts would have to be removed and a new boot fitted. Is this correct? Can't the boot be fitted externally without removing the driveshaft.
Thanks
Mike Read more
I have **tried** to use the split boot kits, but they never seemed to last long. I got them glued up OK, but the seam where the glue goes is quite wide and thick (stiff) so started to split itself after a couple 1000 miles. Mind you, they might have been improved, its at least 10 years since I tried to use one.
I have a problem with my Clio 1.2 2001 car, this has been going on now for about a year and a half, what happens is when you start the car whether its hot or cold the orange electronic fault and pre heating warning light comes on, when this happens you can only drive at about 15 mph, this happens mostly when the car is started but has done this to me at traffic lights once, the engine never cuts out but the revs are higher, if I turn the engine off for 15 minutes it will right itself and the light will go off and maybe will be ok for 2-3 weeks, its been at the Renault garage where they said nothing was wrong, has anyone else had this problem.
Cheers Andy.
{Shouting amended - DD} Read more
Andy
They may not have any more success that they did last time.
If it's the fly-by-wire throttle body [75% chance] then the bill will likely be over £1000 to replace/adapt it and the loom; that's serious money - good job you're loaded.
Saw one of these cute little things in the local dealer, and had a test drive yesterday.
Surprisingly nice to drive; the 660 cc engine is turbocharged, mounted in the rear (it is rear wheel drive). Ride is better than the Smart car, and so is the gearbox - a proper automatic instead of the jerky semi-auto in the Smart. Of course the i-car has 4 seats (and 5 doors) so much more luggage space than the Smart.
Comes with aircon and all mod cons; £35 a year to tax it. The only thing I didn't like was the price - £9000 seems a lot, but on the other hand I think it is better value than the Smart. For comparison, you can get an automatic Hyundai Getz or Kia Picanto with more or less the same spec for a bit under £8000 - and those come with a year's free insurance, 3 years servicing for £100 and a 5 year warranty. Of course, they cost a bit more to tax and run, but the economics are still on the side of the Korean cars, I think.
The i-car would certainly make sense in London, since it is congestion charge exempt like the Smart.
Has anyone else driven one of these?
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I persevered with the car for 5 weeks and then sold it.
I did around 1000 miles in it and never managed to hit 40mpg in any driving conditions.
In addition, the stereo system proved to be useless as well as it is set up for Japanese wavebands and cannot cover the full range of FM frequencies in the UK.
My dealer wanted around £400 to replace it with a UK spec stereo and change the dashboard housing.
I am very disappointed with the whole experience as it is a shame that Mitsubishi have been unable to deliver a car that offers the fuel economy it promises.
Perhaps, in the next year or so, on of the car manufacturers will produce a small 5 door automatic petrol car that really does deliver 50mpg fuel economy?
I hear there's a new Honda Jazz on the horizon.................perhaps that'll be the one!!??
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 137 *****
In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
Usual rules apply,
No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 136. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
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PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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Thanks C....just read this...
Browse
Richard,
I can see you're new to the site, go to "Forum Search" on the right, put "saxo" and "Heater" into the subject line and search and you should find the threads mentioned, this is why we ask for the model and fault in the subject line....