July 2007

pyj

can removing a brand new spark plug from the head, ( had to use the spark plug tool to remove it all the way out it was that tight) The engine had only done less that a 100mls and had misfiring problems and kept stopping when warm and not restarting. Can it cross thread the top third of the head, it has not been cross threaded all the way down which u would expect if done when manufactured, but we did not put the spark plug in again as it would not pick up a thread, so am trying to find a reason for the top third of the head to be cross thread!!! Read more

Cliff Pope

I have very rarely found a previously untouched bolt to rip the thread when undoing for the first time. I assumed it must have been caused by some dirt when originally assembled, or else a small machining flaw causing a hot spot when tightening.
I think the golden rule with spark plugs is to be very cautious the moment you become unable to turn them with fingers alone. At that point it is worth squirting in lubricant, and then working it backwards and forwards, each time trying to extend the range over which it moves freely. If you just go blindly on, whether screwing or unscrewing, then it can get intensely hot and I think cause localised welding and then ripping.

Imagos

Always been intrigued as to the reason why it seems so easy to roll a rally car at relatively low speeds.

Just been watching one of those car crash complications on Men and Motors and virtually all the roll overs where at very low speeds, maybe less than 20mph!

So why is this? and why aren't our country lane full of rolled over wrecks?

Hit a verge, these cars go over! Read more

BazzaBear {P}

I preferred my equation ! (because I understood it ;) )

milkyjoe

hi, what is the cambelt change interval on a lanos 1.4i im currently at 61k it was last done at 40k thanks


Slight tweak to subject line - PU Read more

bell boy

and your sense ;-o
never mind soon be bonfire night

bell boy

After it looked like i was putting down rovers last week here's some good news, sel imperial are now supplying rover 75 front bumpers and at a good price, so if you have one of these cars that gets knocked ,don't let the insurance company tell you they are unavailable

ok?

oh and i own no shares or anything in the company


www.sel-imperial.co.uk/

Link Posted for more information - PU Read more

R40

Looked at the site so just answered my own question doh!

Thanks

sumits9

hi guys, thanks a million for the last topic's replies first of all.

I thought I should change the fuel filter as some of you recommended but I don't know how it is done there is no Haynes manual for my Hyundai Accent 1.3 Gsi.

So I am a bit lost. Could someone please tell me how to change the Fuel filter on a Hyundai Accent? .....oh Yeh it is a Y reg and has only done 50K miles, dunno if that makes any difference.

My guess is that it is placed somewhere close to the boot but I could be wrong.

Subject line tweaked to include Make/Model etc - PU Read more

GregSwain

AFAIK it's located at the back of the engine compartment, where the fuel line comes up from the tank (usually passenger side). It's a funny looking thing, appears to screw into place. As with most modern cars, the Hyundai will have a pressurised fuel system, so take the fuel-pump fuse out first, and run the pressure down (start car up and it'll stall after about 30 seconds as the pressure drops) before taking fuel filter off, or you'll end up covered in petrol!

Here's a pic of the filter so you know what you're looking for....

www.wixeurope.com/catalogue/puImage.asp?FileName=7...f

{sorry, pics aren't allowed to be posted within the forum. Slight amendment to link so that opens into a new browser window upon clicking on it - DD}

rubber

Hi,

Looking for advice on a car used for a daily Commute. The car will be driven for a round trip of 110 miles per day. So approx 550 miles a week and probably 150 private miles, so totalling 700 miles a week.

We have a budget of around £5000. The car must be under 5 years old, as company rules state that the car must be 5 years or under, so no point getting a 4.5 year old car and then having to change in 6 months.
Ideally should have a least 1 years use out of it.
Reliabilty is very important, just turn the key and go. Dont want the hassle of constant breakdowns etc.
Also good comfortable cruiser, with good motorway accelration, as car will probably get driven 4 hours a day at least.
Fuel economy is not so much of an issue as fuel is paid for by company,
A car that will have good resale is also a must...ie when its over 5 years old and taken out of service we want to recover as much of our money as we can.


any suggestions? Read more

nick74

If you want to appreciate the impossibility of what your asking do a search on the Autotrader site. I just have and the only car I could find currently for sale in the UK, which comes anywhere close to meeting all your reguirements, was a 2003 Toyota Corolla VVTi for £5k - and that's an ex minicab!

I think you need to consider buying from auction to get anything suitable within budget.

Norman77

My girlfriend has a Peugeot 306 1.6 Meridian (petrol)
When is the cambelt due to be replaced?
Car has done 118,000
Should anything else be done if this belt is needed?
Thanks. Read more

jonjo29

If you haven't got the service history I would get it done now. It could save a lot of money in the future

Mr Chumley Warner

I've had a look at some of the previous discussions on gap insurance on here, but I was wondering if someone could recommend a reputable company? I have looked on google as per a previous post on here, but there are so many to choose from. Obviously I don't want to end up with a tin pot company that would go bust 5 minutes after signing up.

My current garage have offered me Gap for £350, which I feel is too much. I'm sure there are other companies out there that can offer it cheaper.

Many thanks. Read more

Jes

In March I purchase a 8 month old Zafira 1.9 CDTI Design for £13000 from a Vauxhall Main Dealer. I was offered GAP , but declined on the basis I wanted to understand more about the product. Paid the deposit for the car and was told I could purchase the GAP upon my return to settle up for the car and collect it. Their deal was £299 for 'return to invoice' GAP.

At the time 'CLICK4GAP' premium was £170, plus I could get another £25 via QUIDCO. Return to the dealer on the day to collect the car and was asked what I wanted to do re the GAP. Told him that I could get it for £145 (net cost) - he matched it. Simple, no fuss.

Ian (Cape Town)

If somebody working for a rival company gives you any confidential information, the best way to keep it secret is NOT to send your wife down to the local photocopy shop with 780 pages marked 'Ferrari' needing copying...


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cheddar

quote from "mandy rice davies" of "profumo" fame at the "stephen ward trial": " ..
...... .......'. ..? "



I'll have a pint of whatever you are drinking Dalglish ;-)
clockerharvey

Hi,
I have a 5 year old Fiesta Diesel - old shape - which has over 115,000 miles on the clock, 40K of which I put on it since buying it 2 years ago. The engine is the Endura DI 1.8TD and I have realised that the belt which drives the camshaft from the chain-driven diesel pump will need replacing - probably actually overdue by now as I am sure the prevous owner did not have it done before 75K!!

I purchased the genuine Ford belt kit including a belt and tensioner along with a large sheet of instrructions however I am somewhat put off doing this job myself - as I usuallly do - as the enclosed Ford instruction sheet imply that I need about six special Ford tools to do the job. The Haynes fiesta manual lists this as a "5-spanner" rating and advices that the DIY mechanic needs an engine crane, trolley jack, camshaft locking tool, bearing puller and a Clavis guage - and more - just to do this job !!

I contacted the Ford dealer to see what their price would be and was quoted £300 labour (inc VAT) but was told it would be done within a day. I have always assumed that "main dealer labour" is priced out of the range of ordinary mortals and wage-slaves as myself so I thought my next move would be to try and get an independent garage to quote the job - labour only (as I have the belt).

I would be interested to know what price I would expect to pay for such a job and whether any of the garage chains may specialise in this type of job.

Thanks in advance...


Steve



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TurboD

Take your chance and if it goes, chuck yor car away.it is as simple as that.
That is how motors are made now.
Cars ares so cheap S/H it is just not worth repairing them.
Labour in Bitain is dearer than depreciaton.
Run it to destruction and buy another?