May 2007
Excellent video of a B4 RS4 showing 2 motorbike policeman that they aren't the only ones with a monopoly on safe speed.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z2IscEtEdI Read more
I bought my 2004 Toyota Avensis around 18 months ago when it had 14k miles on it, now it has 24k miles and has spent 13 days in the dealership dealing with the following (sometimes reoccuring faults)
- failed headlight units (both replaced)
- leaking door seal
- faulty windscreen seal (3 times)
- various problems with the brakes (noises, 'grabbing' etc)
- steering recall
- failed clutch unit (new clutch fitted)
- failed oxygen sensor
- failed yaw sensor
What is more worrying is that last 3 items - surely not good for such a low mileage (and young) car. The car is driven regularly and gently by my and SWMBO, so not a tough life. Without the warranty this little lot would have cost me well over £1000
Is anyone else having problems with their Toyotas like this? I'm writing to Toyota in the vague hope they'll extend the warranty after all the hassle this car has caused, because if they don't I'm selling it before the warranty runs out and it becomes a potential liability
One positive note - the dealership have been helpful and friendly - must be used to dealing with lemons (the cars, not me!) by now.
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Sorry, Snakey - read that as a 'failed yawn sensor'. Must be Friday :-)
It's Friday and my boredom at work has got me thinking. I'm just curious, what would happen if I was to redline my supra (autobox) and then put it into drive?
I can think of three possible outcomes:
1 - Something breaks in the gearbox, although I'm not sure what, gears or clutches? Would the torque converter fail?
2 - Failure in the drive train, either the diff or UVs
3 - Two smoking tyres!
I'm never going to try this out, but there must be someone here who's had experience of this? Read more
I came to a stop in the road checked for other cars left foot on
the brake right foot hard down on the gas the result....
The nose dipped down suspension and brakes groaned and then wheelspin wheelspin and more wheelspin.
As I let go of the brake - just more wheelspin.
I remember reading a road test for an early '90's Camaro IROC/Z, in a US car mag (why do I remember all this stuff?). The stated method for best acceleration times was something along the lines of:
Left foot on brake, select Drive, progressively press accelerator until torque just begins to beat the brakes and wheels begin to turn, then release brake and mash throttle at the same time.
You'll have to report back when you have tried it on a dry road!
;o)
I have just replaced my paper driving licence with a photo id licence. Whilst I like the nice credit card sized photo id part of the licence, what I did not realise was that there was a paper counterpart that I would have to keep with it at all times. Are there any benefits then in getting a photo id driving licence instead of a paper one? Read more
One use of the paper counterpart is to register a change of address and apply for a new licence. There isn't enough room to do it on the photocard.
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L\'escargot.
Hi, I have a 1998 audi A4 2.4 V6 117000k which I must say I love but recently it has developed this annoying intermittent fault. Sometimes when starting the car wether it be warm or cold it fires up but stalls straight away. I find the fault is slowly getting worse. Just prior to this problem the car had an oil leak which was dripping on the exhaust and was running rough and stalling. I took it to the local garage who cleaned the trottle body out and replaced the rocker cover gaskets on both sides. The car seemed to run fine after this for a short time. Also the oil leak is still present with the smell of burning oil on the exhaust and I now appear to be losing my coolant water.
I wondered if anyone could help with my problem. I am tempted in taking it to a dealer but I have been warned about the hourly rate. ouch! Read more
I think your right. If I had one problem then it would probably be more simple but just my luck to get three faults together.
Thanks for you help guys.
I'm thinking of buying a Daewoo Matiz, just to get me to work and back about 10 miles away.
It's a T-reg with 78K on the clock, with a full MOT for £900.
Does anyone know if these cars are prone to any major faults?
Also do they have cam-belts or cam-chains? Thanks. Read more
I did 55k in 2.5 years with no problems aside from failed alternator at 44k. Mine was a 98 S reg with air con.
Must have full service history though as neglect equals big bills.
If its a good well looked after car, then its ok at that money but it must be in good nick, body and mechanically. At this price, its more about whether you can get a car in better condition for the money than actual material value.
To own mine was pretty good, but it will struggle on M-way hills altho get it up to 80 and it will fare better than at 70. Gearbox is always a bit vague and clunky but you get used to it.
Dont buy one is a silly colour as it will be hard to get rid of later on.
In a moment of stupidity I've just put diesel in my RS4. Durrrrrrr.
We live about 15 miles from the nearest petrol station and the tank was on empty so being sensible (or so I thought) I put a 10litre jerry can of what I thought was petrol in it. As soon as I'd done it I realised it was actually Diesel for my wifes car, not petrol.
Car still starts and runs but sounds a very clattery and is belting out smoke like noones business...... should I drive it to the petrol station 15 miles away and fill to the brim with petrol to dilite the diesel, or call Audi out (presumably they will charge to syphon the tank?). Read more
I only buy new cars so pretty unlikely. Thats the priviledge you get for paying
£50k for a car.
If you've got it, flaunt it. That's my motto. I just wish I had that sort of money and then I'd flaunt it as well!
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L\'escargot.
Hi, just wondering how I drain excess fluid out of my citreon xantia suspension. the brass ring is just above the second red ring when the suspension has settled at the highest level and the engine is idle. I have a feeling that my fluid is way over full. My brakes are very sharp and are sticking a bit on the front. Also I am getting a ticking sound from the suspension every 1-2 seconds when driving. Maybe unrelated but I am unsure.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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Doesn't sound overfull to me - if it is it just leaks out onto the top of the reservoir.
The brake corrosion problem is related to the rear - causes the calipers to twist and eventually touch the disc making them squeal all the time.
Front brakes sticking is not common on Xantias, but can be caused by water getting in and rusting the handbrake mechanism under the rubber boot.
The brakes should be sharp (as in needed little pressure) but they should never be 'grabby' ie responding seemingly late, which encourages the driver to press harder followed by a sudden stop - this is usually caused by gas in the rear brakes, and this is usually coming from a failed anti-sink sphere.
Agree that this car needs a new accumulator - and this may well help brake feel.
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
i have a golf mk3 VR6 needs a new ABS sensor, is this expensive to sort out, MOT runs out soon Read more
Answer, get him to MoT it for you, agree to pay for the test and for the sensor if he insists, if it's something else it becomes his problem.
The future's coming...... as it has a habit of doing :-)
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Very restrained. I was hoping that a large Yorkshireman would hurtle past.