June 2006
I understand from my sister that takes her driving test soon that the tester expects her to lift the hand brake without clicks (pushing the little button in while pulling up or releasing the handle). Her driving instructor and also other ADI's tell the same thing to their learners as they claim it is damaging or stressing the handbrake mechanism.
Now, I owned many cars in the past, some of them I took to over 300,000 miles and I always pull the hand brake without pushing the button as It let me know if there are too many clicks, usually 5-6 clicks is the standard and anything above mean that I will need to adjust the cable.
To the point, I never had a hand brake failure as I can always tell when it is about to go well in advance. I also heard this item in CarTalk where the Click and Clack Brouthers say the same thing ( snipurl.com/sho7 ). So is it better to tell her to ignore her instructor bizarre advice once she passed her test?
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Hello Everyone
Iam just interested in how many mpg or Litres per KM you are getting from both petrol and diesel cars.
Even the total mileage per tank is ok for people who are not very good at maths like me
For example
My wife in her 1.4 2005 Fiesta style gets around 370 miles per tank (Petrol)
My Mondeo gets me about 460 miles per tank mainly motorway (petrol)
Martin
--
(iam not a mechanic)
Martin Winters Read more
Skoda Superb 1.4Tsi 2018 6'000 miles on clock.
47mpg over last 820 miles consisting of 120 local trips then return trip from Glasgow to the west coast of Wales. Doing 65-70mph on motorway south and 75mph coming home....
We had another look today at yet another Diesel. But this time its a Yaris not a Polo. The car drives extremely well, much smotther than the Polo 1.4 TDI. Maybe it's a 4 cylinder engine.
However, the Yaris has 50k miles on the clock for a 54 plate. My question is... do we need to change the timing belt or is it a chain type?
Is it value for money if the sticker price is at £6600? I had a look at Parkers and most sells above £6500 for 53 plate with around 30k - 40k miles.
Do anyone of you think the car is overkilled considering the car is only 2 yrs old and have covered 50k miles. WHat sort of mileage can this engine achieve?? We have seen Polo 1.4 TDI achieved in excess of 100k miles.
Does anyone knows who made these D-4D engien, is it a Toyota or a Citreon/Peugeot design?
I must say that when we test driven it today - we didn't see any mechincal problem. The only thing we noticed were the clutch squeeks a little when depressed. The garage is a main dealer (not Toyota though), I have asked to see the service history book and the salesman say he needs to track it down, because the car was purchased from another dealer?? Basically I ahve told him that I only part my money of I see the service book. This is because that we have our finger burnt following last weeks event if those people remember about the post I put out for a Polo Karmann Ghia.
Thanks for any feedback.
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You may be able to get a new yaris 1.0 for similar money to a used diesel but i'd rather have the older better spec car with the diesel engine. The small 1.0 unit is very revvy and can be tiresome on long journeys plus when it's worked hard the fuel economy really suffers.
It's not hard for a main dealer to source a replacement service book - in fact i could do exactly that with one quick phone call, it could also have as much of a service history as you like from a main dealer.
As with the previous polo you appear to have reservations about this particular car, it has done quite high mileage for a newish small car so i doubt it's been anything like a hire car but you have little way of knowing unless you contact the previous owner .
Hi all, i have recently bought a 2002 berlingo van with 20k on the clock at auction and i'm wondering wether the clutch needs replacing??
It bites very high but the gear change is fine and there is no slipping, how can you tell if the clucth is on its last legs?
A new clutch is around 350 quid so i'm keeping my fingers crossed. Read more
Bite on our Multispace is also pretty high. Clutch on diesel BX and Pug 205, the latter an ex driving school car, all lasted well over 80k miles. Tend to get very heavy as failure approaches. Agree with others that a check for cable adjustment might be advisable.
Help please,
The rear passenger off side will not open. It has been fine til now. Went to open the rear door and nothing happens. The central locking seems to be workiing properly and the the handle is fine. Feels like mechanically some has broken. Can I do anything about it.
*** Thanks ***
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TT is sort of there.
Folow his instructions to remove the outer handle cover. It's a T25 torx screwdriver you'll need.
If you have opended the door with a really hard quick pull, you may have sent the lock mechanism over its opening piont. If this happens then it won't open until its back to its normal position.
Once the cover is removed, release the plastic cable grip from the handle very carefully, and move it inward 1 notch.
Try to open the door it should now work.
The cable should have a very small amount of slack in it at its rest position.
A mate of mine owns a 2001 Chrysler Grand Cherokee 3.1 turbo-diesel with full service history.
Recently it lost coolant and overheated whilst driving in town.
He could see coolant pouring out from under the engine.
A few days before this happened, he mentioned that a small amber coolant level light illuminated but when the coolant level was checked (when cold) the level was correct.
Anyone out there know if these engines are known for lunching headgaskets or are they known for jammed thermostats as without seeing it, I am assuming a thermostat has failed in the closed position?
Are the core plugs easy to get to?
Where does this inline 5 cyl engine originate as I believe it's an OHV design?
Many thanks,
Andrew Read more
Thanks Aprilia, I will break the bad news to my mate. I bet his garage bill will look like a phone number!
It is clear from all sorts of sources that the correct oil for Ford Zetec engines is 5W-30. To quote from another thread, "The wrong grade of oil in Zetec engines will cause the tappets to stick."
Do I take it that the key to this is the 5W and not the 30, so that flow is easier when the engine is cold? Or is the 30 equally important, such that 5W-40 would be bad for the engine, being thicker when hot?
And what about the possible effects of using 0W-30 and 0W-40?
The word "correct" notwithstanding, I'm interested in any other angles on this issue too. Read more
good post, good material.
But I believe he meant 0/30 but put 3/30 versus 5/30.
In a new engine 0/30 is better if it specified for that engine. But in an older engine or 1 that it is not specified for, then 5/30 is better.
IMO
I have been putting off having my brake pads on my P reg. ford fiesta replaced, and today, the noise of scratching forced me down to my local garage to have them dealt with. Even when driving with out brakes engaged, they scratch occasionally, especially when turning. So i had to have them done ASAP, as it was nearly 5pm. So, I left it with the garage, they say it will be at least 2 days befor ethey can do the work. I have heard that the two front brake pads will need replacing from from my Haynes manual, as you shouldn't just do the one, otherwise uneven braking. I am pretty sure they will have to replace the brake discs also :P As I did leave it a while. Anyway, my question is, As i was told that it would come to around £125 VAT, so maybe £150, does this sound correct? As I'm not too clued up ya see. Thanks :) Read more
Machina, from your comments you clearly have limited knowledge and confidence in your own ability to do DIY jobs on your car. Although changing brake pads and disks is a fairly simple job for anyone who knows what they are doing, I would advise you to leave safety items such as brakes to professionals unless you can get someone to show you what to do and check your work until you build your competence. Working from a Haynes manual is OK if you've got some experience of working on cars. I know you've had the job done anyway but worth bearing in mind for future.
Anyone managed to haggle when buying from car supermarket, Availablecar ? We're just plannign to have a look at their cars, but their website site say there is no price haggling. Are their price that low without the need otg haggle?
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Onne thing came to ,y mind is that it's ood to buy from AvailableCar if the car is outside the 3 yrs manufacturer waranty,
The manufacturers warrantee is far more comprehensive than any aftermarket warranty, if you can buy a car which has even just a few months left then you can get virtually anything fixed - broken trim etc etc.
The Unbreakable Engine Breaks ? Honda Civic Type R Engine Failure
Can you help? I need advice and information.
I have a Honda Civic Type R, 2004 Plate with full service history (last serviced April 2006). On the 28th May on the M54 the engine suffered a major malfunction. Travelling at 70mph I changed down from 5th gear to 4th gear for better acceleration, the engine went bang!!
The main dealer has been in touch with Honda UK and they are saying that the damage is the result of an over rev situation. They are suggesting that I missed a gear, which I STRONGLY deny. I can not prove that I went 5th to 4th and they can not prove otherwise!! Honda will not cover the damage under their 3 year, 90,000 mile warranty. We have had an independent engineer look at the damage and he has concluded that the damage sustained was more than likely caused by an over rev situation; but can not rule out that something else could have contributed to the damage; examples which he has suggested are collet failure or dropping a valve. The damage is so great that no body can say what 100% caused it.
We have visited 2 other Honda garages under the same main dealer control at both of these garages we enquired about purchasing a Honda Civic Type R, asking several pointed questions. Such as can you at 70mph go from 5th gear to 2nd gear? We have received answers such as: ?Yes, no problem. The engine comes of song and you will run out of bottle before you run out of revs?. We have a 23minute tape recording of two sales executives at one of the dealerships answering our questions. We have confronted Honda and the main dealer with this information and they are unwilling to discuss the matter.
Trading Standards are unable to help us as the purchase price of the car was over £5,000 (£14,995). Honda seems to be calling our bluff and forcing us to go to solicitors. This could prove very expensive. Can you help? Any suggestions or information would be welcomed. Honda is suggesting that the replacement cost for this engine is nearly £8,000.
This is just a brief run down of events. We have a lot more information and details upon request.
Please help.
I wait in anticipation of your response.
Regards,
Ryan Guest
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pmh, that link suggests he is selling a 55 plate with lots of modifications. On here he is querying about an 04 plate. He obviously has enough money to own two Type Rs so I am sure he will be able to afford to buy a replacement engine.
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