December 2005
I've fairly recently bought a 94 L Reg Golf 1.4 for my daughter.
Can anyone advise me on the service indicators that appear on the milegage indicator, for a few seconds when you switch on the ignition.
It shows IN 01 which according to the handbook mean an 'inspection' is due. There are apparantly 2 other reports as follows: IN 02 which means that additional work is needed and IN OL meaning the oil needs changing.
The handbook doesn't state whether these indicators are just time/mileage based or if they are actually monitoring the condition of the oil etc. It tells you how to reset them, which seems a bit simplistic.
If anyone can enlighten me I'd be grateful. Read more
I'm looking at buying a 51 registration Focus, however the DVLA and cardatacheck are showing the first registration date as being 25 April 2002, which would make it an 02 plate. The 25 April 2002 date is when the current owner says he bought the car from a contract hire company (with 2000 miles) and the log book appears to show him as the first owner. Is this possible?
Thanks for any help! Read more
I'm not sure, I'll check it out when I can. How could it not be new at first registration, other than being an import from Jersey, say, as mentioned previously?
In a recent thread, it was revealed that main reason for driving gently for the first few miles was to allow the oil to thin sufficiently, so then full and efficient lubrication can be attained. This is because oil can ?lose? half of its viscosity in the first 10 degrees C from 0C
For a while now, I?ve been wondering if I?m doing my engine any harm. 95% of all the journeys I do involve using the dual-carriageway near our house, which is the main spine road out of our town. It would be entirely possible for me to be on it within about 3 minutes of starting my engine. But knowing my engine needs to be at operating temperature before I push hard, I go the long way out of my estate which means that the engine is at about 70C when I enter the spine road (which must be better than going with a stone cold engine?).
However, that?s the water temperature, but how long does it take engine oil to reach the optimum 80C? (bearing in mind sump capacity is only about 3 litres).
I always make sure that the temperature needle has been at 90C for a few miles (about 3 or so) before I?d consider working it hard. During the warm up phase, I make sure I keep engine loading to a minimum and engine speeds at or below 3000RPM. Incidentally, the engine needs to be kept at 3000rpm in order to make satisfactory progress in top gear (only 4 speeds you see). What would you consider to be a reasonable rev limit when cold? Am I doing it right, or is there more I can do?
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"If idling, it will take much longer before the engine becomes hot. Engine wear is greatest during this warming up phase. Therefore drive away as soon as possible, but avoid high revving".
That doesn't mean that engine wear is greater when idling, though! I had a friend who took similar advice to the extreme, starting his car in gear so that it wouldn't have to idle at all! Not very surprisingly, his cars gave endless trouble...
I use the LJK Setright rule of thumb, which is not to use more than half maximum (red-line) revs until the engine is warm. A short idle before moving off ensures that the oil is at least circulating.
a neighbours car has been damaged overnight by a friendly local. They threw a wrought iron gate from a couple of doors down onto the car bonnet. Has the car owner got any way of claiming against the gate owners house insurance policy (as it was their property that did the damage) to recover repair costs, or is it a 'put it down to experience' type situation?
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let me be the last to let you down.... Read more
Thats always the dilemma isn't it? Sods law states that if you get some damage fixed, the next week someone will damage the car in the same place again!
Happened to me a few years ago when I got a wing repaired that had a car park bump, and the following week 2 "shopping trolley" dents appeared on the same wing.
Back to square one but higher insurance!
My FiL, whose car has had various dents over the last couple of years, has just put his car in to be repaired. Told his insurance company that the car had been vandalised overnight so they are all getting repaired on the one claim.
AFAIK, this same attitude was taken by my previous company's car drivers. They were charged for any damage when they returned the car, so as we worked for a major supermarket chain, they always seemed to get their cars vandalised in the car park a month before they got handed back!
Does anyone know whether BMW offer a factory collection programe like Mercedes, Porsche and (I think) Volvo offer?
Neil
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Neil T
E90 BMW 320d M Sport, SEAT Toledo 20VT Sport Read more
The yanks do it as they get a holiday out of it and in many cases the "Factory delivery" price is lower than that of local dealer supplied. In the end they pick it up from the local dealer anyway. The cost saving of factory delivery usually covers the airfare and accomodation so it is essentially a free european holiday.
The downsides are that the car must be paid for up front if not using BMW finance and the wait after leaving your car in Europe can sometimes be several weeks.
With the wife delivering our first child a few months ago, it has become apparent our supermini is no longer adequate for transport.
We need something that can handle a pram plus assorted other luggage, and ideally seat four adults in reasonable comfort. It also needs to be reasonably economical, and reliable.
Some friends have suggested an MPV, but I'm more inclined towards a diesel estate since we need luggage space more than seats.
The main priorities are:
- safe
- reliable
- good storage
- decent legroom
- economical
Two possible estate options that have been suggested are the Toyota Avensis and Skoda Octavia.
Neither the wife nor I is too bothered by badge status. We'd probably prefer to buy new, and then keep it for five or six years.
I'm interested in your views on MPV v estate, and whether the two estates suggested are worth consideration? Read more
We have a picasso at the moment which we are just about to change, but it has been excelent with 2 small kids, and it has 3 full size rear seats so you can get 3 child seat in if you need to. We also have a huge off road style double puschair and that fits in the boot pretty easily. We have clocked up 40K in 2.5 years in our - its been to France 4 times, and other than servicing and a few tyres I have not spent anthing on it, although the brake pads are almost out now. It has not been faultless, but the few things that have gone wrong have not left me stranded on the road side, and have been fixed under warranty. If it wasnt for the arrival of number 3 plus the need to transport the first 2's friends then we would be keeping it.
We are considering a Galaxy / Alhambra / Sharan, and at the monet the Sharan wins on price. The spec is a bit better than the Galaxy, and the price is largly the same - I have seen some pre reg / up to 12 month models on the VW used car site for about 13995 which I think is cracking value - the Galaxy's looked to be slightly more. The other reason to lean towards the Sharan is the possible lower depreciation plus the fact that all the running gear in the three models is VW so warranty / repair should be easier - I have heard of people with Galaxy's struggling with Ford repairs due to VW not wanting to give to much away.
Forget the dealers, prices, styling, servicing costs etc. Focus on the reliability issues only, please.
Which do you think is generally more reliable:
1) Volvo
2) SaaB
Please consider only the latest models (9-3, 9-5, S60, S80 and so on...).
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I am the only Pole over here. Read more
Having ordered a new one for 1st Feb delivery the new 9-3 is much better. I will be disappointed to lose the current 2.2 TiD hatch, still thing it's a great car in many ways.
Hi folks
Im now on these forums so go easy. Ive read all the rules on swearing and pointless posts etc etc. But if i say / do something that is wrong just email me (gemini@jolt.co.uk and say so so i can stop it)
Anyway, im a new driver. Hoping to pass my test late febuary early march of next year. Im a really big guy heightwise. And il only be 18 so obviously im gonna get raped on my insurance.
So could somebody please recommend a car for me. Got to have legroom, cheap insurance (as its realistically going to get) and preferably one where I could get a good second hand deal.
Im learning to drive in a 2004 Corsa and ive sat in (and felt quite comfy) in a 306 (year unknown)
Any suggesstions. Help apreciated.
Thanks Read more
If you literally mean insurance as cheap as possible then the starting point is insurance groups - its relatively easy to find the group for a specific car but the ABI site makes it easy to list all 1, 2 etc.
www.abi.org.uk/carinsurance/default.asp
With 7k and Group 1/2 buying new you are looking at Pandas, C1/C2, to mame a couple. I think the Ford Ka can be had for nearer 5k new and is Group 2.
A Pass Plus course also gets you some money off with some insurers; it's another 6 hours tuition and the extra training should benefit you anyway - my son felt it was worthwhile from that point of view.
"...the airbag was finally ready for production in December 1980 when it celebrated its world premiere together with another innovation, the seatbelt tensioner, in the Mercedes-Benz S-Class"
Quote from an article on UK Motoring Search Engine News (tinyurl.com/atb4v ).
Leads me to a couple of thoughts:
a) Was there other viable safety systems that over time and similar development could have been more effective than the airbag? Has this been a betamax v VHS situation with all manufacturers going along the airbag route? I vaguely recall Audi having a system in the mind-80s that actually pulled the steering wheel and pedals away from the driver in an accident rather than exploding something at them!
b) Is there a finite number of airbags to be had before the extra safety protection they offer is marginal? IIRC one of the new Lexus models can be fitted with up to 12 airbags!
Just before people get the wrong end of the stick, I think that the airbag is a GOOD safety device that certainly prevented my father from getting more seriously injured from a particularly nasty high speed accident(not hiis fault)last year. I just wonder whether there was or could of been anything better.
DB Read more
How safe do people feel whilst in their cars these days? Do you think the death toll could be lower still if people felt that the air bags and safety features in their vehicles were worth nothing? I realise there is now no practical way of introducing a feeling of 'vulnerability' to a car as new designs always want to be more refined, quiet and comfortable etc. I realise a 'feeling of vulnerability' is not necessary for a good, safe driver but imagine some of the idiots out there who believe they can't die or even be injured in a car crash.
I don't feel 'safe' in any car, although I would like to have as many saftey features as possible. There are still many kinds of crashes that would generally be considered unsurvivable regardless of car type.
Let's hear it for Quality Service - in Weston Super mare -
Rare to find Quality and Service nowadays, eh ..?
They are always very courteous -
They take about half an hour for careful work , including removal and replacement of a tricky tacky undertray that my Focus has underneath - I gave him the option of slinging it away but he persevered...
They drain it properly - no sucking out via top filler/stick
They replace with Duckhams QXR 5W/30 Semi synth. for my Ford Focus diesel - I think it is good quality stuff
They didnt have my filter -"come back in an hour and we will have" -and they did
Some people worry about the filter -
It's by QIX which some of the best cars in the world badge as their own ....see www.wixeurope.com/oecontracts/index.html
All for £21 including a tax of £1 for disposal of oil -
And no hard sell ever, although I do go back to them for other services cos they are fine and fair.
Don_lynch@hotmail.com
{Slight alteration to wording. DD}
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Just to clear matters up here.
"cheapread" has been in touch with me by email and I am satisfied that he has no connection with National Tyres other than being a satisfied customer. I have amended the topmost post once more to include the location, but have chosen to leave the fitters name out of the post as he/she may not be happy to have their name included on a public forum without prior permission.
DD.
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It is just basic time/distance.