December 2005

Allie

Hello all-knowing ones, a bit of advice would be greatly appreciated. I am looking for a new/nearly new economical, reliable not too expensive runaround and was thinking of a Yaris.

The local Toyota dealer is advertising an ex demo 55 reg 1.0 Colour Collection with 935 miles on the clock for £7495. They have added air con and alloys. The What Car Target Price is £7277. I think the air con & alloys would come to about £1000, but do you think £7495 is a bit steep considering it has been driven by god knows who and there is a new model coming out 1st Jan?

My mum got a pre-reg 1.4 D4D Yaris with metallic paint from the same dealer with only delivery miles for £7995 in August which was a good deal but I'm not so sure about this one - it seems a bit expensive (or is it just my wishful thinking?!)

What do you think? Opinions very welcome (but please don't tell me to get a skoda instead - I'm in my 20's and am not quite 'there' yet!)

Ta! Read more

Allie

Thanks everyone - you've been really helpful!

markus

Is anyone having trouble engaging reverse gear on a 5 speed mazda 6. Mine is on its 3rd clutch and it still isnt right.
Read more

markus

Anyone?

Billsboy

My Wife inherited a "W" reg 2.0lt Focus Ghia two months or so and it came with fsh (not all Ford) and 48k miles.
We are very pleased with the car but even after a short run it "Smells" hot.
Lift the bonnet and the heat hits you and when you switch off the engine, it creaks with the sound of metal contracting.
It does not use any water or oil and the temperature gauge remains steady, just under the half way point. A test staion revealed the emissions were OK.
Is this normal for the model and if not has anyone got any ideas on what could be wrong?
Any help welcomed. Read more

Adam {P}

I read this thread yesterday. I was out in the car for abotu 2 hours before with relatively hard driving and just for you, I checked the engine afterwards.

Very hot and with that satisfying cooling down noise.

JH

Shortly after going out yesterday afternoon I saw a new shape RR approaching. Yeuk! I'd like to be able to afford one but I'd never buy one. it's like a vertical slab of stainless steel coming at you.

Later on, and after dark fortunately, this was surpassed by what must be the ugliest car on the road - a white, stretch Hummer. Blah!

Now some of you may be lusting after a RR, some of you may want a ride in a stretch Hummer. Please don't take offence, it would never do for us all to be the same, but a 1976 Datsun Coupe suddenly looks so much better!

What's your nomination for the ugliest new car on the road today?

John




Read more

r_welfare

The ugliest thing I saw today was the 2006 Fiesta in
a showroom. What is it with those knobbly bits on
the front headlamp units for the sidelights? Hate it hate
it hate it!
--------------
Mike Farrow

Seeing the 2006 model Fiesta on the billboard adverts, it looks like Ford have taken the front end from the Toyota MR2 and grafted it to the Fezzer, but it's not really ugly.

Definitely has to be the RR Phantom, Ssangyong Rodius, and the new wave of Seat 'can't decide if I'm an MPV or a hatchback' models. I'm still undecided about the new Civic, too...
AlastairW

..and the other one resting on the gear lever? Well, don't, unless you want to damage the gear linkage.
I dont do this but my ex - who does - called at 7.30 this morning saying 'I've got no gears!'. I went and rescued the kids leaving her to wait for the AA.
Nice man came and pinged the gear selector cable back into place (2002 Corsa 1.2 - not quite sure how this was done), and told her to get a new cable ASAP.
You have been warned... Read more

Number_Cruncher

>> ..and the other one resting on the gear lever?
Well,
>> don't, unless you want to damage the gear linkage.
It can also increase wear on the synchromesh cones.
--
L\'escargot.


Interesting... How so?

Number_Cruncher
4 cars

Why does it sound like the tappets are rattling at any engine speed? 10k on the clock and I don't think it even has tappets! Read more

Edd

The 1.2 suffers from this problem. It seems even worse when its cold.

Best idea is to change the oil for new stuff.

grn

Hi,

Been having problems with the tailend breaking away on the 330D auto in the last few weeks.(registered Dec '54, bought 2nd hand in June this year - as bmw approved with 1600 miles on clock - if it's age is a factor at any point).

No occasion has been at high speed or rapid acceleration for the conditions (damp roads at worse)..

Once was when I exited a round-a-bout and another when turning right at some lights...both times the rear-end parted company then came back into line. Never had the back end break away on any previous Beemer.

Was wondering about poss causes, given that the tyres have plenty of tread (10,000 miles from new) and pressures are ok.

The one potential issue is that the OSR tyre has been replaced twice due to punctures, so I'm guessing it has only done about 1,000 of the 11,500 miles now clocked. Is it possible that different tread depths/tyre circumferences could cause what i am experiencing?

I dread the thought of buying yet another tyre, but if it cures the problem, I will do it asap as it seems less than safe at present.

Informed opinion more than welcomed :-)

Thanks in anticipation,

Graham. Read more

grn

The one thing the tech proved to me, was how stable the car was and you would have work ridiculously hard to get it so out of kilter that the electronics couldn't cope - so you can push the margins. Have had great fun off motorway (M-Ways are becoming more denagerous than A roads based on the driving I witness) on quiet A and B roads...then it comes into it's own with the handling. Having driven scores of others they just don't drive with the same poise and handling.

One of the best runs was on a RoSPA re-test...examiner was as keen to see what it could do as I was :-)

4 cars

Our host for this site in his comments on this model says. "On 1,149cc D4F 16v and D7F 8v engines it is essential to change the timing belt, tensioners and the water pump every 3 years or 36,000 miles (whichever comes first)". WHY?( Is this so vital to this particular model)when all the manufacturers literature says different.Not questioning his wisdom, just curious and cost conscious Read more

4 cars

Sorry if that confused.The first service was done in may05,at two years old and cost £140.This second service was due at may06 but was done early because of a lot of short trips,a noisy engine and a change of driver/useage pattern.
But yes you are right £260 is a lot for a service on a small car,my last Merc service didn't cost that much.

dollygolfmids

my golf misfires at cold and idles rough, ive changed most the ignition side of things, and ive set up the carb..

i carried out a cylinder leakage test:
cylinder 1.. 8%
cylinder 2 ..8-9%
cylinder 3.. 30%
cylinder 4.. 35%

this is at cold. i accept one and 2 as the car has covered 173 000 miles and you are going to lose some compression through wear ect. cylinders 3&4 are excessive, and with air bein supplied ( through the spark plug hole, with valves closed )i can hear a hissing through the filler cap and dipstick, its also present down the exhuast from number 4. there is no bubbles in the coolent. so this leads me to believe its valve seal failure, as piston ring failure would result in alota blue smoke..

so heres the question does anyone have any experiance in cylinder head/valve seal replacement on this engine? or is it better to take it to a vw specialist, approx prices? Read more

dollygolfmids

To make sure it is valves and not rings do a
comp.test,note results,put a few squirts of oil down plug hole and
repeat test.If the result is higher you have blow by,as the
oil temporarily seals the piston if the rings are not.


thanks for the advice, i would have a go this weekend but im working, so then its christmas eve.. i will see how i feel.
mike hannon

I'm not sure whether I should be concerned at this - but I can't help being paranoid.
The auto/'tiptronic' transmission on my 98 Prelude 2.2 vtech (44k, full Honda history) seems to be working fine but the warning light is worrying me a bit. When I turn the ignition on the 'd4' lamp comes on and goes out again as it should. But while I turn the key to start the engine it flickers again momentarily.
I haven't seen it any other time and the fluid seems pretty clean and up to the mark.
Any ideas?

Read more

mike hannon

Thanks Peter, I'll give it a try - with my other automatic Honda! The Prelude is probably on the original battery although the indicator (it's a sealed battery) is still showing green. It's been pretty cold here lately though...