August 2005
I'll soon be changing my car and am looking at the Mondeo. A few questions...
Which engine? I fancy a 2l either petrol or diesel TDCi.
Which trim? I fancy a Ghia or Zetec
Where are the best places to look?
My budget is up to £7k. Best at less than 50k miles and a 51 or newer. I've looked at Car Giant but mileages seem quite high. Am I being unrealistic? Is my best bet an auction?
All advice appreciated Read more
The above car will turn over but will not fire I have just got the car and have been told it could be a imoboliser problem is this easy to check and can I bypass it
Mikes Read more
It is 1996 and drove ok till now I bought it
a week ago
Mikes
I thought UK sales stopped in 1995.
Anyway, late model, fuel injected, twin coil wasted spark ignition - might have inertia trip, as mentioned above.
Head gasket problems can make starting difficult due to moisture in the cylinders - is the coolant level where it was when you bought it?
Has it previously started on 4 cylinders, or spluttered a bit and then cleared?
Yesterday started my healthy (Petrol) Citroen Berlingo Multispace . Saw I didn't have enough fuel for my journey, immediately turned off engine, jumped into my other car and made my journey.
Today my Berlingo won't start. Is it because of what I did to it yesterday? Read more
Most modern engine control systems will turn the fuel pump off themselves if you crank at WOT(wide open throttle).Usually spelt out in manual.
Now being but a humble studyent...I'm debating whether to get the suspension of the 100,000 mile Focus replaced since it's rolling fairly heavily in the corners now. What particularly would be the best components to replace, and what SHOULD I expect to pay? Read more
Possibly time for new dampers/shock absorbers at 100k, but have you noticed a deterioration, or just have a hunch.
Have a look at the thread
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=34...0 under "shock absorbers: how long do they last"
If it is over 3years old, you could always invest in an early MOT to double check diagnosis. I would beware of going to a fastfit place to obtain diagnosis
While contemplating my Xsara's stubborn door, my neighbour sought help with his J-rej BX which he can't start.
Although he does very low mileage the plugs and all the leads seemed in good nick but on cranking the engine I could see no spark. It's a 1.9 (carburettor) with electronic ign. in what looks like a conventional distributor. There was no warning of any developing problem. Anybody know any known problem areas we could start with?
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If you are sure there is no spark from the coil, then I would begin some basic tests - which are fairly generic to all cars with this type of ignition setup;
Is there live at the coil and the amplifier when the ignition is on, *and* when cranking?
Is the coil primary and secondary resistance OK? Check for mechanical damage to the coil, and for any tracking of the HT to earth.
Is the amplifier earthed adequately? Well worth five minutes taking apart, cleaning, greasing, and reassembling this vital earth connection.
What type of ignition sensor is it? Hall Effect, or inductive, or optical? Once you know this, you can mimic the signal, and see if that gives a spark.
If all of the basic checks work out OK, you usually end up with one of two situations;
1) If you can get a spark by mimicking the sensor, then that suggests that the sensor is duff - so a replacement distributor is probably required (sometimes, you can get individual bits, like the windings for some inductive types).
2) If you can't get a spark by mimicking the sensor, that suggests the amplifier is past it.
I hope that helps,
Number_Cruncher
Suggestions anybody? The n/s rear door on our Xsara won't open. To gain access to the c/locking mechanism I need to remove the door trim. To remove the door trim I need to open the door.....
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Remove the seat base and lie on your stomach, you can then remove the door card.
Hi Guys,
Can anybody confirm if I can "upgrade" my timing belt, tensioner assembly & associated pulleys to the 1997 on 80K spec?
My car is very late 1995/1996 Spec Elite Auto and the main dealer says it needs a change every 40K BUT the Haynes manual says the later type '97 on belt & tensioner assembly can be fitted.
The early tensioner assembly backplate has the letter "D" stamped into it and the modified backplate assembly has "EA" or "EB".
I have a kit with the EA backplate which includes all the necessary parts.
Anybody BTDT?
Thanks in advance.
Dave
1995 3.0 V6 Omega Elite Estate Auto
1998 1.9 Tdi Audi A4 quattro Avant Read more
There has been a continuous series of mods and upgrades to the kits on these engines. As long as you have the latest belt kit from GM it will be compatible with your car. I wont mess about with these. It has to be the full, genuine kit or I walk....
Andrew
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
when starting the car the gearbox sticks in first gear and jerks before going in to second. After that the car runs smoothly. Any ideas on what the problem is. Read more
Sounds very much like a sticking governor. Try changing the fluid about 3 times (much of the fluid is retained in the torque convertor, so multiple changes are needed to 'refresh' it all). Use a decent quality DIII - the high detergent level in the new fluid may clean off the varnish and gum that is causing the governor to stick. If that fails then you may need to have the box stripped. Sometimes it can be a sign of a failing component (wear particles circulating in the 'box). Put a new filter in when you change the fluid - make sure its an OEM one, some of the aftermarket ones can make the 'box 'howl'.
Morning all,
Those amongst you with a keen memory may recall that around six months ago, I posted here about one of my company's lease Renault Scenic DCi-100s being so badly faulty that it was eventually replaced.
Well, I've had the replacement car a good four months now (19,000 miles done), and yet again, I'm at the hands of the wonderfully competant Renault support staff.
Around 16,000 miles, the rear brakes started to squeal under moderate braking. This was most noticeable when braking up to a roundabout under normal conditions; the squeal started at around 30-40mph, and continued until you stopped.
Fair enough, I thought; it's due the first service soon, and it's most likely to need the discs or pads cleaning. So, it was dropped into a prominent South-East Renault dealer (I won't mention the exact name because last time the board Admin removed it, but it's a different dealer this time around), along with a minor niggle to do with the passenger-side electric window.
When I came to pick it up, I was told the following:
1. They couldn't find anything wrong with the passenger-side window (which is rubbish as it makes a loud repetative clicking noise at it hits the extent of its upwards travel every time), so they can't do anything about that. Not a huge problem as I don't use it much and it doesn't really bother me.
2. The brake discs squealing would be a chargeable job (?!) and is due to to a) the position of the brake caliper (er.....) and b) the use of asbestos-free brake pads, whose dust, when wet, forms into little "diamond-like" lumps on the pad, which then makes the squealing noise. Their suggestion was to take it to a car wash and use a pressure washer on the back of the wheel for 2-3 minutes per wheel.
They also told me that they couldn't clean the pads under warranty because it's a "non-service" item and Autolease won't pay for it.
Does anyone else find this a bit strange? Could anyone explain exactly why the rear brakes are squealing, and what can be realistically done to stop this?
Surely asbestos-free pads have been used for many years now, and wouldn't this then happen to pretty much any car manufacturered in the last 5-10 years?
Also, the suggestion to clean the back of the wheels amuses me, as that'll only clean one side of the disc...
I should mention that I service my own car, so if the suggestion is to remove the wheel and clean the brake pads myself, then that's fine.
Any thoughts or suggestions most welcome. Read more
Original post
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=33456&...e
I can only say this is not universal; my Inforad usually comes on in a minute or so. Assuming the instrument is properly placed and there is nothing odd about the windscreen glass, it may be faulty.
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There are two main types of fix. A hot fix and a cold fix.
Hot fix. - GPS has not moved since it was last turned on, has a good signal, and therefore on power up does not have to work hard to confirm & fix position. Time approx 30 seconds.
Cold fix - thinks its never had a fix before, does not know what part of the world its in, signal is variable, lots of work to do to confirm postion. up to 5 mins - sometimes more.
I suspect, given the price, the inforad does not have a very good gps implementation (sensitivity and firmware), and the owner my have poor reception.
Browse
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My mate got two year-old March 04 2 litre Mondeo Ghia models from Arnold Clark at a windscreen price of £8,999 each (about £1,000 each less than would have been expected).
He also got full trade-in prices for the two Y-reg Mondeo 1.8 LX cars which were taken in PX plus full tanks of fuel and, overall, felt he had got a brilliant deal; certainly it was far less than he would have had to fork out elsewhere and he had already done his homework.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by