June 2005
I came across this product called "FUEL CAT" and was wondering if any BRs use it?
www.fuelcat.co.uk/index.html
Does it really work - what is a "....heterogeneous or contact catylyst" anyway?
Or is it just snake oil...?
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Working on my computer the other day I found that, while they produce a current for charging or powering devices connected to them, none of the 6 USB ports on my computer will handle signals or information. I connect my PDA to a port and the battery is charged but I cannot synchronise the information on it. I used Symantec Go-Back to take the computer back to a point in time where it was definitely working OK, but no result. I cannot use my printer, scanner or broadband despite reinstalling drivers etc.
The help line of the people who stamp down prices has been very helpful but their suggested cure is to use the supplied recovery disc to take the computer back to where it was when it came out of the box 6 months ago and I am reluctant to do this due to the faff of backing up and restoring stuff, if there is another way. I have already done the back ups, just in case. Please can anyone tell me whether this is likely to be a software problem, in which case I shall probably have to reinstall, or a hardware problem, in which case I would expect a home visit? The motherboard was replaced under warranty about 6 weeks ago and the computer has worked fine since then; there were no power interrupts or crashess on the day it failed - the USB ports just died on me. Thank in advance for any help or comments. Read more
I wouldn't rush to condenn the hard drive, from the error message given (ATAPI - AT Attachment Packet Interface) I would be wondering about a CD/DVD drive and maybe the integrity of cabling in use.
Evening all!
Tried searching for this but am still a bit stuck as to what the problem is.
Neither of the rad fans on my 306 (1.6 with air-con, P reg) are working. They just packed up a couple of days ago. Have checked fuses, relays, all the wiring for the sensors around the thermostat housing, all seems fine.
I'm just after ideas of what else to check, I've not run 12v direct to the fans yet but to be honest, both fans packing up at the same time is pretty remote, but I will check anyway.
I've read that there is a box of tricks called a Bitron that controls the fans for the cooling and the air con, now, if this failed, would it stop the fans working completely?
Is there anywhere I can take a voltage reading from to eliminate certain parts of the circuit?
Also, I cant see the Bitron unit. Supposed to be under the nearside headlight but I'm pink fluffy diced if I can find it!?
Any help would be really appreciated!
Cheers
{Barry, curtail the language please. DD. BR Moderator.}
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Could be a stuck rad fan switch or stuck/arced relay contacts.
Check the rad fan switch first. Try disconnecting the rad fan switch and see if the fans stop. If so, I would replace the rad fan switch first. If you have AC, then it gets a bit more complicated, with bitron switch etc.
Does anybody know for sure whether an insurance company is legally allowed to insist on a full engineer's report to back up the challenge I am making to the valuation they have put on my car?
Accident wasn't my fault, car has been written off which is fine but I believe insurance co. is undervaluing it. They have also allowed £75 for salvage which is unrealistic. Financial Ombudsman helpline didn't have a clue and suggested Citizen's Advice Bureau but I can't really see that they would know.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Read more
No Do$h - are you saying that the insurance co. will
be automatically charged £360 if I refer them to the Financial
Services Ombudsman?
Yup. That's the standard rate. There are variations, but that's the standard industry fee from FOS. Note, however, that there are a number of instances when the fee is not payable. Two that may apply here are a) if the FOS don't consider that the case falls within their remit, such as if FOS believe the insurer is making a commercial decision and b) where the insurer persuades FOS that the case is "Frivolous and Vexatious" i.e. it has been bought to FOS solely to cause inconvenience to the insurer and not because there is any reasonable chance of success.
As I see it, neither of these apply........ However, there is a possibility that FOS will not consider your case for a third reason: DAS are not your insurers. I would argue that as they have been referred to you by the insurers to act in recovering your uninsured losses that there is a contractual link, but it's not a scenario I have come across previously.
That sounds a bit extreme. A good
incentive for them to revise the £75 scrap valuation.
My previous caveats aside, yes.
Thank god I found this site, though a bit too late this time.
The story so far (brief version): Taking driving lessons, mate sold me his old car for 50 quid, car chassis is sound, rear valance and both wheel arches disintegrating, mot runs out next month.
Q: how hard is it to fit new wheel arches to rear of my rustbucket, will it require the services of an expensive mechanic or can novices (like me)get to grips with the epic adventure.Or shall i just take it straight to scrapyard, have limited budget and no real experiences of car repairs. Maybe buy haynes book ?
Cheers
Fiesta fool Read more
I think you are talking about bangernomics, not classic restoration.
If the car works, and otherwise gets its MOT it sounds a bargain. You just need to bodge the wheel arches. There are two realistic options, depending whether or not you care about appearance.
One is a hammer and then some gaffa tape, as suggested, the other is to spend more time and do a pop rivit and bodyfiller job. That can look fine, and even be virtually undetectable if you spend enough time on it, but it will eventually rust through again.
But before then you may have had a few years of use from a cheap and reasonably looking car.
I'd do the tape job and get it through the MOT, then put in a bit of time with the bodyfiller.
I have a Laguna II and when you take the foot of the gas it pulls to the left. Put the foot back on the gas and it pulls back to the right. Any suggestions as to what the problem could be? Read more
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
Polo is due for replacement and a provisional car shopping date has been set for the August Bank holiday, but something tells me I wont be able to wait that long!
There are very few cars I actually will consider, so lets not turn this into another thread where people tell me I should be FiestaGirl or similar. It's just not going to happen.
I need a car that is:
a) As safe as possible
b) Supremely reliable, I can work call out as part of my job so can't afford to be without my car.
c) Probably diesel, given the amount of miles I do.
d) That little something that makes it stand out.
I think I'm going to have about £6-7000 plus Polo to spend - have given up all hope of being able to afford a house so I might as well have a car instead!
The shortlist is:
1. A Seat Leon. I would love the FR diesel but suspect I would have to settle for a used tdi or similar. Am I mad to get one just as the new one is coming out, or will that mean I'll get a decent deal? The only thing that puts me off is that they don't seem to come in 3 door variety.
2. Skoda Fabia vRS. I still want one, but not sure if I could live with the Mk3 golf lookalike interior that is out so out of date. Also might be a tad out of budget unless I get one that's been ragged to death.
3. A Renault Megan diesel. Probably the only car I could afford new as the car supermarkets are full of them. Just a bit concerned about Renault reliability although it ticks all the boxes for safety and is a little bit quirky.
4. Another Polo, probably of the shape before the current one, with the cheeky little grill. Might be a bit small for what I need now though, and I can't afford the GT!
5. A Mk4 Golf Tdi - surely if I get one of the last ones to be made they will have ironed out any of it's faults? Just a bit reppy and boring though.
It was very hard to come up with that list - there's just nothing out there that I really want at the moment, but really can't keep Polo much longer as he's starting to feel his age.
Any thoughts on any of those?
Thanks! Read more
Polo a he?
But surely a Polo is the mint with a ?
Sorry, couldn't resist it. Leaving now..
Saw one of these yesterday in the Black Forest, with minimal camoflage on the nose and back lights. As far as looks go, inside and out ´mini-Maybach´ pretty much sums it up. Very impressive indeed. Read more
Im a bit thick I think . Can anyone tell me where the cars driveshafts connect too ? Reason being Im having a recon gearbox done shortly , and basicaly was curious as to weather I will still have play in the driveshafts . Read more
Not unless the play is where the inner cv joint goes into the gearbox. If the play is between the driveshaft and cv joint, then it's the cv joint that's worn.
Hi everyone,
Have been lurking on these boards for a while and very impressed.
Have just been to Costco in Leeds and seen the following, both for 234.98 including VAT
NAVMAN icn610
Snooper S6
Bought the NAVMAN, not sure how it compares to TOM TOM and others but appears pretty good so far.
Hope this helps someone
Dave Read more
Halfords is advertising the Medion PNA 175 Integrated Sat-Nav system in today's Mail for £279.99, a cut of £70, which can be used with a cigarette lighter socket or fitted FOC (usually £40).
It will be a rebadged sat-nav product and someone will no doubt recognise who actually produces it.
Also advertised at £349.99, a cut of £50 along with a free AutoGlym valeting kit, is a new Road Angel covering accident blackspots and safety cameras; I'm not sure if it is the same model to which teabelly refers. It can be updated online using a USB cable.
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This is a 13-year-old thread.
A: I've tried it and it works....