April 2005
Anybody know what type of diagnostic tool to use for a 2001 Vauxhall Zafira 1.6 16v petrol car? If so, do you know where I can get one? I saw on another Vauxhall forum that a site was quoted as having one for about £30. Trouble is I can't remember the site and don't know if the tool was suitable for 2000> cars. Read more
Put SWMBO's Yaris in for a service yesterday - the Dealer phoned up and said "We noticed that the anti-roll bar bushes have spilt...this is a MOT failure....we advise you have them replaced....it costs £220*."
I declined and said I'll leave it - what puzzled me was that the car passed it's MOT only last week! - only needed front tyres which I knew about anyway.
So either
a. The MOT guys overlooked it (not that likely, as I've been using them for some time and they are pretty good)
b. The Dealer guy didn't know what he was talking about and it's not a MOT failure item
c. The dealer was looking to make a quick £200+ from an unsuspecting punter
I haven't had a chance to inspect the car myself but I would expect that if the bushes are indeed split, I'll need to get them replaced.
How much would this cost at a independant garage?
If they are not, then that's the last time I'm using that dealer.
* It was somewhere around £220 or £230 can't remember exactly...
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Beware main dealers. I was told my Golf's rear bushes were gone 4 years ago by a dealer. Quoted £380 to change. Found an independent to have a look who said they were fine. Have stuck with him since and just recently the rear bushes are gone (4 years later) and replaced for well under half the original quote 4 years ago.
Incredible really.
My Y-reg Opel (same as a Vauxhall) Zafira's air conditioning has failed for the 2nd time in 9 months.
I had it regassed and checked for leaks by a Vauxhall dealer in July/August last year. Now, in March/April and the first warm day of the year it doesn't work again.
I've expressed my disappointment to the dealer, and they want it in to have a look at it before they'll agree to fix it at no charge - no charge is what I requested.
What can I ask / check to ensure I'm not fobbed off? When they respond "It's another £150 sir, the xxx has a stone in it, the yyy has rusted away".
The car is regularly serviced by them.
It seems unreasonable (well at least unfair on me) that I may have to fork out another £150+ on getting this fixed.
Would I be likely to get a good job/cheaper job elsewhere or is this pretty specialist?
thanks
Ian
Ian Read more
I never ever turn my AC off. Leaving it on keeps the pipes and seals lubricated and this should prevent leaking. AC only cools the car if the heater's set to cold, so there's no reason not to leave it on all the time. It conditions the air, and you'll clear condensation off the windscreen much more quickly with AC on than off.
hi,i have a 1995 2.0 gls 16v injection cav,it has been fine untill the other day the ecu warning light came on,i used the home method of shorting the pins out to be able to read the codes,which were,24-vehicle speed sensor-no signal and 92-camshaft sensor-incorrect signal,i was hoping that you may be able to tell me, A: does the car have to be running to get the vss or is the sensor just no good and B: what does incorrect signal on the cam sensor mean is it that the sensor has gone or has it got to be adjusted to get the correct signal.Could you also tell me if poss what is involved in changing both sensors,any help would be most appreciated.
many thanks
quester
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hi dave,thanks for your help info was perfect very very helpfull thank you again!!
Just been told my cambelt on my IS200 is sheered.
Could this be why the engine was making a rattling sound?
I've been told I need to change the following:
1 Cambelt
2 Pulleys
3 waterpump.
Are items 2 and three really necessary or are they trying to make money out of me.
Would the sheered cambelt have damaged the engine?
Thanks
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Sarah, reading the threads on your cambelt story, it seems that you have been very lucky so far. Do yourself a favour and do as Aprilia suggests, have it checked again,soon. If there is nothing wrong then you can motor on in confidence, if it is not right, you will know before any damage is done.
Hi Guys,
My lovely Clio failed her MOT on Saturday for a split steering rod gaitor. I got a new gaitor immediately and set off to work to replace the split one. I started by marking the positions of the gaitor on the track rod and the tierod/balljoint assembly on the trackrod. I then separated the balljoint from the swivel hub, loosened the locknut and attempted to unscrew the balljoint assembly from the trackrod. It didn't budge. I cleaned the threads carefully and lubricated with oil. Second attempt and also nothing.
I admit I don't have a workshop or all the tools, but I am mechanically minded DIYer, armed with a Haynes manual and plenty of enthiusiasm.
Can anyone give me some tips or secrets in removing this balljoint without taking it to a garage? Anyone who has done this on a Clio with P/S?
Any help much appreciated as MOT expires in 1 week.
Regards,
Mark.
{subject header amended to make it less vague, as per the 'sticky' note at the top of the page. DD}
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have a look at www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=26000
or search under "seized trackrod end"
Seizing is very common. Careful or you may need a new rack!!
I'm not so sure. Having been assisting Mrs V learn to drive I've been in a car equipped with 'L' plates for the first time in over 20 years. What I've noticed is that 'L' plates seem to attract moronic behaviour rather than assuage it. Anyway, her test rapidly approaching' she's asked me whether I'd suggest she drive using 'P' plates if/when she passes. I don't think this is mandatory so my initial inclination is no on the basis that empathetic drivers seem very thin on the ground whereas those who'd seek to take advantage abound. Anyone got any views? Read more
I really struggle to see why people get so irate with
learners/newbies, We all had to learn at some time, Just give
them a little more room and time, they only ever
stay in front for a short time before they turn off.
Amen to that.
For that matter, it applies to anyone you encounter on the road.
My 2000 W reg Renault Scenic 1.6 Petrol Alize is running on 3 cylinders, which surprises me. Car only done 40k, recently serviced. Went to the dealer this morning, says it'll probably be the coil pack, whatever that is! He said it was a 1 hour job to change, but my question is this:
Can a half skilled DIY mechanic do it, as I am loathed to give dealers money for simple fit and replace jobs?
Does anyone know or have they changed a coil pack before? I was told that they replaced HT leads...was there anything wrong with having HT leads in the first place? They always seemed reliable to me on previous cars. Read more
I thought the
faulty coil pack wasn't Renault's fault at all?
If you buy a car from the manufacturer, you by it whole. So if it bears the Renault mark and then it develops a fault - you take it back to Renault because thatys from whom you bought the car. You don't take the alternator back to your local Valeo distributor if it fails - no you take it back to the manufacturer of the car. Same with all other parts of the car. Indeed Renault might have been provided 'faulty' parts by their chosen supplier - but the buck stops with them...because you bought a Renault car from them. Could you think of what would happen if when a component failed, you had to then take it back to the various manufacturers?
As in this case the coils are faulty, it's down to Renault.
But as a way of apology, I would like to apologise to RF for any offence caused - man I wasn't just bitchin' about Renault to annoy you. No offence was intended or implied to the other Renault owners out there. Sorry if my post came across that way.
swearing edited. DD
Hi all,
I want to change the oil in my auto box in my Volvo S80, but Volvo are saying that the unit is sealed for life.
Now, there is a oil cooler for the gearbox and I was wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to flush the oil through there and get some new stuff in there?
I can't believe that Volvo don't change the oil, is that normal?
Cheers
John Read more
The AW 50-42 was carried over from the Volvo 850 on the 5-cylinder Volvos. The GM 4T65E and EG (with Geartronic) is used on the 6-cylinder models. They are actually very very similar boxes. I'm not sure of the commercial 'goings on' but Hyramatic (GM) seem to work closely with AW and so I imagine there is a lot of commonality between the two boxes, although the 4T65 has a higher torque rating (280lbsft).
Im having a few problems with my rover 220 when its ticking over on idle. Some days it runs as smooth as a baby bum constantly at 1000 rpm then some other days like today it ticks over like its running on 3 cylinders at around 500 rpm down to 0 rpm it goes up and down like a yo yo and then stalls. I need some clues to where to start looking i checked all ht leads they are all fine. The thing that confuses me is when i put my foot on the gas it runs perfect its only on tick over.
Any ideas and sugestions???
Thanks
wayne Read more
Check the thin plastic pipe to the MAP sensor for blockages or leaks. If there's any oily gunge in the pipe, check also the sensor itself.
Assuming yours is a T series with MEMS ignition, then this is the cars way of telling you that a sensor has failed, because the car does not have a 'check engine' light. if it's not the Map, you will need to have the fault codes read, unless you have the wherewithall to check every sensor output yourself.
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i have just bought one of these of e bay for my volvo v70 works a treat and resets the warning light should be fine on any obd2 complient car