April 2005
Can anyone tell me if these figures are about right, please?
1999 Xantia 2ltr Exclusive( non climate control)
Outside air temperature 21 degrees C (vehicle sensor)
Air vent (interior) temperature 7,5 degrees C (accurate thermometer)
Engine speed 2250/2500 rpm (tacho reading)
Road speed 50/55 mph (car speedo)
Interior fan speed low.
Air vent set to fresh, non recycling.
Bright sunny day.
Is the temperature drop of approx. 14 degrees C an indication that the air con is ok? Read more
Om my 1 year old metallic black civic sport bonnet I have all white small marks like paint stains and can not remove them with Mer,Autoglym or superguard.
Has any one any suggestions as to how and what to try to remove these,without damaging the painwork totally.
Thanks/Steve Read more
I don't think much of the paint on the Civic. As I said it seems thin and chips very easily, allthough the shape of the bonnet dosn't help.
The white specs on myne are chips so no polish will get them out!
Hi all,
This is a bit of a techincal/legal matter so any help would be appreciated.
My friend recently sold a used audi car. When my friend bought the car, he bought it as a Quattro model (ie 4 wheel drive) and he had no reason to doubt this. Now that he has sold it the new buyer has discovered that the car is a non quattro.
The new buyer has threatened to take him to the small claims court and get his money back. My friend his really upset by all this as he is not mechanically minded and he sold the car aS a Quattro and did not know any better!
He wants to know what is likely to happen as the matter has gone to the small claims court and what he should do..how should he deal with the matter.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers to All
Read more
My proxy is down so I cant download munchausen's or anything else!
Hi All
I have a 1998 Mondeo TD, When air con is switched on the car runs like a pig (i know air con saps some power but this seems a bit extreme). If i remove the air con belt and switch on there is still a drain on engine maybee ecu should tell the injector pump to run differently when air con is on, but in this case going wrong somewhere! any ideas?
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Assuming the compressor isn't about to seize, and the system has the correct charge, it may be you're just experiencing the normal load of the compressor coming on and off. These things can take up to 8/10hp, and can have quite an effect on the driveability.
I had V6 mondeo, and I got a fair jolt when it cycled on and off at 70mph.
Hi there.
I currently have a W reg petrol Vectra and do 23k private miles per year, mainly on Mways. The car currently has 61k on the clock, so within the next 2 years or so, it will be at the 100k mark and perhaps ready for a replacement. If it goes on longer - great. However, if it starts to creak under the strain, I'd welcome some ideas about the replacement.
Option 1.
Get a similar kind of car, but diesel. No thrills, nearly new around the £7k - £8k kind of territory. Perhaps another Vectra or Mondeo with 20k miles on the clock. Basically, a reliable motor to do the 84 mile commute, with a 12 month dealer warranty.
Option 2.
Go for a more presteige brand, again, diesel. I'd love a BMW. Spend more, get a better car. Keep for longer, as would last longer being better built (that's an argument not a statement!)Residue value would be higher due to marque of car, so could pursue 1 if felt taken wrong decision.
Option 3.
Go for small fun petrol coupe (MR2, Mazda) and when wife's S Reg Fiesta is due to for a replacement, get an MPV style of vehicle to cater for family days out.
I think I am between option 1 and 2 at the moment. Car needs to be able to accommodate 2 adults and 2 children (until option 3 is a reality).
What would you do?
Cheers.
TT
Top Turkey - the fastest hands in Brum Read more
I think that is where I currently am.
However, when I see 3 series and 5 series BMs going
for £9k - £12+ on ebay with 130k miles on the
clock, I wonder to myself if that kind of mileage is
problem. Surely people would not be paying that kind of cash
for a car with only a very short shelf life left?
Perhaps I need to re-evaluate what 'high miles' is?
Cheers.
TT
--
Top Turkey - the fastest hands in Brum
>>
I would only buy a high-miles car if I were going to do relatively low miles in it myself.
If you are covering 20-30k miles a year then you don't want to start out from, say, 130k and no manufacturers warranty.
A BMW engine will not last any longer these days than a Ford or GM engine block - they are all well designed and capable of, probably, 200k (assuming regular servicing and a little luck!). From the cars I see it tends to be ancilliaries that give trouble - i.e. alternators, starters, water pumps, ABS system etc etc.
People pay high prices for relatively new, but high mileage, BMW's because they want a 'prestige' car on the drive and know that there neighbours can't see the odometer!
From a practical perspective, in your sitaution, I would go for a newish car (still under 3-year warranty), relatively low mileage with a good repuation for reliability (that means Japanese, or Ford - which is improving by the year).
Thinking about buying a new cycle carrier, anyone got any recommendations on type? What are the roof mounted ones like? I drive a 3 door Corsa B with tailgate spoiler and no tow bar.
Got our old one which fits to the rear of the vehicle, not used it for sometime but from what I remember its held in place by two straps which run over the top and under the bottom of the rear door, but I dont think it would be wise to use given I have a tailgate spoiler - think the weight on the straps would break the spoiler as its only plastic.
Thanks Read more
Daisy1, take a look at www.roofbox.co.uk and follow the Bike Carrier link on the left - a lot of useful info there.
I am being offered a Seat Toledo R reg 2.0 Sport Auto in Red.
Ex-demo then 1 owner. Genuine 50,000. Full Seat service. Immaculate. I know him personally so all kosher.
He wants £1,600 for it. It books 9-13 as these cars are rare as hens teeth and very unpopular.
Its basically a Golf Mark III in a Seat bodyshell so reliability/spares should not be an issue.
I say worth it. Comments? Read more
I've just got rid of mine, I had a 1996 2.0 16v, same engine as the golf gti. It had all the bells and whistles.
good points
Quick
Lots of toys
huge boot
pretty reliable
fair economy
Bad points
expensive to insure
electricals are less reliable
several rust spots
no image (if you care about that stuff)
low slung (no good over sleeping policemen, especially with darts team in the car)
Firm ride and seats, a bit tiring on a long daily commute
cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=454530...6
Although my German isn't up to much beyond getting a beer, this is Pope Benedict XVI's Golf. A snip at $54000 (so far).
O
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Jaguar XJS V12 - comes with free personalised oil tanker. Read more
Noticed their inspection (Our MOT??) expires in 2007, which suggests 2 yearly tests?
Taken from www.autoexpress.co.uk today (Fri 29/04/05)
Recent Home office figures indicate a 44 per cent rise in speeding fines issued by cameras in 2003. Yet official figures also indicate that deaths on our roads increased over the same period - from 3431 (2002) to 3508 (2003).
Paul Smith, road safety spokesperson for the M4 Protest group (www.m4protest.org) said: "Speed cameras have issued £700 million pounds in fines and road deaths are going up. It isn't fair. It isn't safe. It isn't right. We urge everyone to join the M4 Protest on Saturday."
Read more
Recent Home office figures indicate a 44 per cent rise
Previously discussed here:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=31306&...e
of which discussion should continue there ;o)
Has anyone an idea of the cost of replacing the water pump on an Audi A4 1.9TDI 2001? Also is there anything odd about the flexible brake hoses? Read more
The bumper has to be removed then the lock carrier unbolted and pulled forward to gain access. The radiator does not need to be removed, however, the coolant has to be drained anyway...
A full description can be found in the Haynes Manual for the A4.
El Dingo.
Browse
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Temperature change from ambient isn't a reliable method, though it does look like yours is ok.
A better check is have the car at standstill, engine at 2000rpm, max blower, then measure the vent temp at face vents. It should still get down to 6/7 degrees within a reasonable time (less than a couple of minutes) assuming the ambient is above 20degC. This way, the system is running at full load.