Hi Guys,
My lovely Clio failed her MOT on Saturday for a split steering rod gaitor. I got a new gaitor immediately and set off to work to replace the split one. I started by marking the positions of the gaitor on the track rod and the tierod/balljoint assembly on the trackrod. I then separated the balljoint from the swivel hub, loosened the locknut and attempted to unscrew the balljoint assembly from the trackrod. It didn't budge. I cleaned the threads carefully and lubricated with oil. Second attempt and also nothing.
I admit I don't have a workshop or all the tools, but I am mechanically minded DIYer, armed with a Haynes manual and plenty of enthiusiasm.
Can anyone give me some tips or secrets in removing this balljoint without taking it to a garage? Anyone who has done this on a Clio with P/S?
Any help much appreciated as MOT expires in 1 week.
Regards,
Mark.
{subject header amended to make it less vague, as per the 'sticky' note at the top of the page. DD}
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The ones I have done in the distant past have never presented any problem which of course is of no use to you but a couple of things come to mind.
I do recall on one car that one side had a left hand thread on the ball joint. But you say you?ve already loosened the lock nut. !.
Normally the ball joint will unscrew virtually by hand once the locknut is loosened as it is a parallel thread and hence shouldn't be tight. I have had to use a big adjustable to loosen the locknut holding against it with 18? stillsons and the track rod end screws off by hand.
Is there a possibility that you have tightened the locknut and not loosened it?.
If you can disregard that there may be some particular difference with a Clio and some expert will no doubt tell us and it could be a case of penetrating oil and stillsons needed.
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Assuminng you want to reuse the balljoint then 'Plusgas' and a good wrench to hold the rod and one for the balljoint and a bit of brute force is what is required. You could heat it up using boiling water to avaiod overheating and damaging the ball joint. If that really does fail then you may have to heat up the balljoint to remove it then fir a new ball joint. If still stuch the you may have to saw or angle gring a slot it without damaging the threads and borrow a two part nut splitter and engage the splitter bit in the slot and crack it open. Regards Peter
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I think its best to leave the track rod end in the hub carrier and use a 15/16/17 spanner on the flats of the tie rod (can't remember which size it is now on the clio).
The car i did needed the tie rod gently heating before the ball joint would budge. Don't use excessive heat - if the penetrating oil smokes thats usually hot enough. Dont think heating the balljoint should be needed as it has a male thread i believe.
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3 options.
1. Soak the joint in Plus gas 4 times a day for 3 days. I know this seems long but it should work. It can't be rushed.
2. Use serious heat. A blow lamp not water. As the old joint is a problem, just replace it, with copper paste on the threads, and waxoyl over all nuts that are near a thread to keep out salt etc. A new joint may only be £7-10 or so. Get it all properly tracked after.
3. A good independant may do it for £50 or so if you already have the bits.
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have a look at www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=26000
or search under "seized trackrod end"
Seizing is very common. Careful or you may need a new rack!!
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