July 2004
I don't know if there anyone that help out here as it for an old lady of a car, a '69 Rover P6 3500 Auto.
I've noticed that after only about 10 miles, there's a sizable puddle of ATF under the radiator forming on the cross member. I can't for the life of me find where it's coming from. I know the car must have some kind of ATF oil cooler but can anyone perhaps point me in the right direction?
A Borg Warner 35 holds 9 litres of ATF and it was overfilled with new fluid only recently but if this continues, I'm going to need regular top-ups.
Can anyone help out with the likely cause so I can probably get my spanners out and hopefully just tighten something up?
I wouldn't normally ask but after shelling out 200 notes on a dodgy ignition circuit, things are a bit tight financially at the moment and I would like to avoid another trip to the garage. Read more
Does anyone out there know of a more easily-available version of Chrysler's Mopar ATF+4 and their power steering fluid?
It's really a pain having to find a dealership whenever I need any - also I'd like to save money by stopping using the main dealer for servicing now there's no warranty to satisfy.
Many thanks
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Terry
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look into trying "redline" oils theyre very very good
try a search on google for it
Suggestions gratefully received for the best route (with the requirement of being in time for a G&T at 7pm this evening just the other side of Welshpool).
M1, M6, M6 relief, south down M6 for 1 junction & then M54
OR M1, M6, M54
OR M40, west round Birmingham, M54.
Many thanks!
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Thanks. M1 was sticky; M6 had 2 holdups, so went on the toll road which was well worth 2 pounds.
Central London to any motorway can be trouble!
I'm looking for a car for my daughter who has recently turned 17 and obtained a provision licence. I am considering a new or nearly new Vauxhall Corsa 1.2, in any of its guises. Would this be suitable car for her to learn in and use around town for a few years ? I believe it can run on both LPG and petrol.
On another subject, I am also considering enrolling her for intensive tuition over two weeks with a driving test at the end of it. Does anyone have any experience of this type of learning and whether it is more or less effective than learning over an extended period ?
Thanks in advance. Read more
I didn't read half this thread, and I know some have allready said what I am going to say.
I think NCAP is important
I think a low power to weight ratio is important
I think it should be second hand.
My suggestion, therefore, is a second hand 1.0 Yaris, I think they were introduced around 2000 so it won't be that old anyway. *unless you do your homework and you find a free insurance deal on a new car, then it might make sense to go for a new one.
Watch out for imports you can spot them easily because they don't have the model code (GL GLS CDX etc) on the wing mirrors, sometimes an import *will* have this on the wing mirrors but the letters won't be the same, Toyota use a thick squashy seethrough gel type of letter (look at the ones in the showroom) an import trying to look official will just have silver paper letters. Also an import often has a "luna" or "sol" badge on the back of the car. Nothing wrong per-se with imports just as long as the price is a bit lower.
{This thread is closed. Biggest car design bloopers. Volume 2 continues here:-}
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=27542
Following on from the thread about Renault Espaces taking in water through bumper-level air intakes, what other monumental car desigm mistakes can anyone think of?
I read recently about a problem with one of the new coupe-cabriolet models with a folding steel roof - not sure which one. It has a facility whereby, if it's not locked, if someone touches a door handle the elecric windows lower a few cm. automatically. This is to prevent pressure build up inside the car when shutting the doors. Someone took one of these cars to a car wash. As soon as the bristles of the spinning brushes touched the door handles....... you can guess the rest!
Cheers, Sofa Spud Read more
I dont know if its a flaw but I watched a guy in a bright yellow tuscan spend 15 minutes looking for the fuel filler yesterday. Eventually I drove off at which point he had made three phone calls and seemed to be trying to lever off the badge on the back.
Just goes to show that nobody was doing any work ...
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Tom - so far I think you win the award for the Eric Cantona of the BR. ;)
My son has had a Daewoo Matiz from new in December 2000. It has now done 52000 miles with not a single problem. The only costs have been fuel and 2 tyres although it is now due a service.
However he is about to start a new job entailing a round trip of over 100 miles a day. We think that the Matiz, with its tiny engine, will not be able to cope long term with this mileage but he is keen to keep it. Does anyone have any thoughts on how long a Matiz can go on as faultlessly as it has done so far?
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Hmm - "Espero" means I wait or I am waiting in Spanish!
Roger in Spain
Hi,
I have acquired a full set of Monroe shocks to replace the rather tired ones on my 1982 2.8 mark 2 Granada Ghia auto. I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips or advice that might help? I will be doing the job on my driveway using a normal car jack (and supporting the chassis on wooden blocks as well). Will I need spring compressors or any specialist tools apart from the basics like sockets/spanners etc? I will have a look in my haynes manual when I get it back of a mate, hopefully by the weekend! Thanks. Read more
Top of the shaft should have a sqaure shape to it.it will enable a spanner to be used on it to hold it whilst tightning the top nut.dont try using mulgrips or the like to hold shaft below arch.Damage to shaft will mean new shock absorber.some use a key without the sqaure.would look at top of shaft to see what it is.ie is it star shaped or I think hexagonal.check this out first.prob is usually top nut not tightened down enough.?
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Was mech1
Hi, now booked for a fortnight in Tenerife at Playa de las Americas.
While there, will be looking to hire a car. I have found various options via the net but has anyone any real life experience of hiring there, who to recommend, did you book in advance etc?
We are flying in at 2am and our price does not include coach transfer, we have heard from various sources that taxi will only be about 25-30 Euros,. However, if I could pick up a car at the airport at that time of the morning and return it 2 weeks later for reasonable prices, then I would maybe consider that as opposed to picking up in the resort.
Any thoughts / ideas etc? Read more
Further to my suggestion of car on Tenerife check out RCI .com who will give you a good rate and you can collect at the airport. The drive to Playas is a doddle so no worries there and driving on Tenerife is no worse than here.
Just a quick update for all those who kindly replied to my query regarding opinions on Volvo V70's.
I had a quick go in a D5 today thanks to my kindly local dealer. Not a V70 but a S60 Auto which is basically the same car. Pretty impressed with the engine - nice and smooth and good performance. Only really a trace of diesel noise at idle when cold but on the move the only difference with petrol was the nice load of torque just where you need it. On the move I actually think it sounded better than the petrol models - they just drone but the diesel has a nice 5-cylinder roar which reminds me of the original petrol 850's. Didn't work at all badly with the auto either although they're still a bit jerkey when going slowly.
Unfortunately, the S60 (I think a 03 model) still had some of the same problems as my 01 V70. Most noticable was very loud aircon - it wheezed and hissed the whole time and was like driving with a heavy breather in the car. Incredibly annoying. Do Volvo actually drive any of their cars before putting them into production? There are also still resonance points in the rev range through the exhaust although apparently the mounting has changed on new models.
Other than that I enjoyed it. Unfortunately, the dealer just couldn't get close to some of the deals being offered by certain dealers at the moment price wise. I'd much prefer to buy locally if they've made the effort with test drives etc. but I'm not paying over 2 grand for the privilidge.
Also, a point to note: Poor auction and trade prices for the V70 have really filtered into trade in offers. Do not expect much more than £7k for any petrol V70 3 or more years old with 60k plus on the clock. Volvo depreciation is now very much in the Ford Scorpio, Vauxhall Omega department (look at the auction reports on this site for starters) as far as the trade is concerned, more's the pity.
Still might go for one if I can find a decent deal though. Read more
The D5 in the S60 sounds great, doesn't it. It's funny I've heard of people moaning about the noise of the air con, but mine is quite, so it might just be a problem with some cars and not others.
Now for the big tip, keep your eyes open for pre-registered Volvo's at dealers. They are sold as second hand, but have only been registered with the dealer. Volvo imports too many cars every year and discounts them to the dealers. I bought my S60 D5 auto with 50 miles on the clock for £5000 cheaper!!! The car was almost exactly the specification I wanted as well, exterior, interior colour. Of course when you go in to the showroom and ask for a new car, they won't tell you this, so also ask for nearly new cars.
Good luck Wipeout
Browse
Said V8 cost me £125. Spent about £400 fettling engine, heads skimmed, new valves et.et. lots of skin + blood over about four months but when finished was a really super motor. SWMBO drove for six years till tin worm finally took over completely. Was broken hearted when it went off to scrappie. Self using 57 Conquest Century but SWMBO could not cope without power steer so had to buy DS19 which was an absolutely hopeless pile of rubbish. Looked good on the drive tho. Rarely went anywhere without breaking down. Happy days of mispent youth recalled....
Phil I