July 2004
'comma air conditioner cleaner' - available from Halfords and all good motor factors, according the the Telegraph motoring supplement on Saturday, and according to Comma's website.
Has anybody actually seen any of this fabled beast on a shelf ? - if so, where. I called at three motor factors and three branches of halfords over the past two days, and all I got was six blank looks. Emailed Comma for a list of stockists, but no response so far.
regards
Mike
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Have been offered a bargain used car with MOT but no tax.
Snag is it needs to be moved tomorrow on public roads to be mine.
I can insure it but it will have no tax.
The car also has a headlight out. Car will be moved in daylight.
It is actually impossible for me to tax it the same day i buy it (insurance docs wont come through in time and faxes arent accepted)
Any ideas on what i can do? Is there any way of taxing it or a break in the law that lets you move a recently bought car?
Present owner cannot tax it as it is not insured.
I realise I would risk a £1000 fine if I drive the car untaxed.
Anyone else think this is a ridiculous situation? Read more
Doesn't matter really - still valid.
I believe every road tyre has a tread wear indicator number on the side wall.
Is there any site that lists these? Read more
As far as I know, you are talking about an American system, to which Europe does not suscribe.
Out of interest i was wondering if fully synthetic 0w40 would be suitable for the new 1.4 duratec engines in the fiesta.
cheers
SO Read more
When saying normal oils I should have stated 10-40 semi-synthetic.
Been contacted by a friend who this weekend is out to impress his girl friend by carrying out an oil change to her Ford Ka.
Has some considerable mechancically aptitude with two wheel machines but wonders and asks:
1. The location of the sump plug on a 1.3 Ka?.
2. Is a standard Hex used to loosen or a key?
3. Location of the filter?
4. Oil capacity including filter.?
Detailed replies please so he can truly impress.
Piece of wedding cake for the winner or invite to a christening??
DVD Read more
Have relayed that info to said friend and just what he wanted,
You are so kind to post mfarrow - thanks on his behalf.
DVD
Hi all
I have a mk2 Golf GTI 8v that has started leaking a bit of oil. It appears to be coming from the oil cooler, although it's hard to tell as there is a general smudge of oil everywhere, doubtless because of airflow forcing it about a bit. I have heard that older, high mileage cars (mine's just broken 130,000) can suffer from leaking seals, and I was wondering if this might be the problem. A friend recommended getting some oil specifically for high mileage engines, as this contains certain constituents that help prolong seal life. I've seen some Castrol GTX 'high mileage', does anyone know if this will be suitable? I'm not too sure what is in the engine at present, as it has recently been serviced and hence the oil is whatever they have used - I am intending to check, as I gather they should be using a semi-synthetic.
Perhaps this is an obvious question, but how bad is it to mix oil types (mineral and synthetic)? I am a bit concerned as I have been topping up with some decent semi-synthetic and never thought to question my garage as to what they've been sticking in. A few posts on this forum have lead me to think that perhaps I should be taking a closer interest......
All advice gratefully received
Matt Read more
Exactly, so a 15W-40 oil has a greater change of viscosity for an increase in temperature than a 5w-40 oil.
My wife wants a small, economical car that is well built and will last. The Jazz is very impressive, but I have posted views on the dreaded suspension issue before - swmbo found it too unforgiving.
We have looked at the new Panda, but I would prefer to buy Japanese (we have a Honda CR-V which has proved faultless so far)
The Yaris D4D appeals, but I have read reports of 'jiggly' suspension which is somewhat reminiscent of the Jazz.
I know that HJ sings the praises of the Yaris. Can any backroomers who have first hand experience of the Yaris give me any reassurance on the ride quality?
BTW, I understand that a new model is planned for 2005. Does anyone know anything about this as I intend to buy new or nearly new and worry about the effect a new model will have on residuals.
Thanks
HectorG Read more
Strange how VW get a bad name fore reliabilty, when Skoda Seat and VW use the same parts bin, just wear different clothes.
Anyone got the definitive method for bleeding brakes? Everyone I speak to tells me something different.
Some say start at the brake closest to the fluid reservoir but others say start at the furthest away? Some say open bleed screw, get someone else to pump the brake pedal until its hard then while pedal is to the floor close the bleed screw, but now been told not to do that and to only push pedal halfway and then close the bleed screw.
All very confused.
Got to bleed the correctly so that we can check if there is in fact a problem with the system or if its just that they had not been done properly in the first place.
Brakes were fine when we got the car but one brake pipe needed replacing. This was done and we attempted to bleed the brakes but by the next day the pedal was very spongy ?. first attempt so we may have just done it wrong.
Further pipe was replaced by someone else and brakes supposedly bleed again but 5 months of sitting in the garage they seem to be spongy again. It?s a 1980 Mini with drums at the rear and disks at the front.
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Gunsons EasiBleed every time. Been using one for 15 years now.
DO NOT put any grease of any sort onto the threads of the nipples. If any grease gets into the fluid in the cylinder it reacts with the brake fluid causing degradation. An alternative is to put the rubber cap back on the nipple after tightening, clean the area with meths or similar and then seal with ignition sealer.
Knowing the wealth of knowledge in the BR, can anyone help me on this, I can't seem to get a sensible answer anywhere.
I have recently taken delivery of a nice shiny new Ford Transit Connect as replacement for my Escort van, it looks a bit like Postman Pat should be driving it but it is a quite surprisingly good drive with a nice upright driving position and a nice responsive engine.
Now, to the nitty gritty, my old Escort was regarded as a 'car derived van' and as such had to obey the same speed limits as a car and had a Gross Vehicle Weight of 1950Kg. On the other hand the Transit Connect is not 'car derived' and as its GVW is 2025Kg it is over the 2 tonne limit and must therefore adhere to 50mph on single carraigeway NSL and 60mph on dual carriageway NSL but is allowed 70 on motorways.
The query that no one really seems able to shed light on is why is the limit set at a GVW of 2 tonne?
When looked at logically the Connect is designed to handle that weight the same as any other vehicle on the road is designed to be fit for purpose but must stick to the lower limits due to its GVW. This looks even more of an anomaly when looking at the GVW of some other vehicles, could you imagine the reaction if a Jag, GVW over 2600Kg, or a Shogun, GVW 2500Kg, were forced to obey lower limits due their weight!
I've tried various searches and asked quite a few people as to why the limit is 2 tonne but can't seem to get a better answer than 'because it is', can anyone here give me a logical reason.
Cockle Read more
Quick look in the Highway Code and it would be obvious that the speed limits apply to 'Goods' vehicles, and it's just the size that changes. It just so happens the thread relates to the lower weight limit vehicles. May or may not like those rules but that is how they are. As so many van drivers run part laden, they could simply buy an estate car instead... oops no cos that means paying VAT, and loosing the business perks of a van!
It's a shame that some of the 'good drivers' wern't aware of the the simple principles of the Highway code.
After sitting for 2 weeks my 2002 Freelander TD4 would not start, (engine not cranking over), after getting Land Rover assistance to get me going using a booster pack I am told the battery is in good condition and there must be an intermittent fault draining it as this has happened once before (after sitting for 3 weeks and LR assistance man helped me out), therefore it is back at the main dealer whom did not find a fault before and hasn't seemed to have found one this time. The vehicle has not had any interior light left switched on or been on short journeys prior to being left, all that is on is the standard fit alarm system and clock. This is spoiling an otherwise excellent vehicle, any ideas? Read more
I would not disable the alarm but I would investigate the override i.e. dog in car Ultrasonic turned off. This will avoid
false alarms due to overflying and turn you interior lights to the off position. If you really want to consider a booster pack, just buy a spare battery ( that would fit your vechicle )and a set of jump leads ( Good Ones ) and strap them in the back of the vehicle. Al vehicles should be able to be left 6 weeks without a problem on a half life battery ( 2 to 2/12 year old ) Airport car parks often boost charge batterie when you are stuck and the massive inrush current cuases damage to you battery which fails 2 or 3 months later. ( not uncommon ) Keep the spare battery charged up and In a years time you can have it fitted and keep the old one as a spare/backup. If you use the battery to shart the car then connect it up and leave it for 10 minutes then start the vehicle and carefully remove the leads and stow the battery before departure. Regards Peter
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Just don't use the cigar lighter or smoke whilst doing so (boom!). :-)