July 2004
havent had a in-depth look yet, but a water leak is occouring on my friends 1.4 diesel 5 door k plate - cant find culprit. it has been happening for 4 months now.
it needs filling every 2 weeks - any ideas where is best to look? Read more
trying to get a perodua nippa gx for a friend.
just wondering - if they are as reliable or living on far-east reputation? Read more
Some advertised in these links:
www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=Perodua+n...=
I would have thought at the price you'd throw it away and get a new one if things went wrong...:-)
Bit like £30 microwaves, £7 toasters and £8 kettles.
Can anyone give me more information about the turbo diesel engines used in Toyota Camry?s. There are two which I am interested in: 1984/5 1800cc turbo diesel engine and the 1985/6 2000cc turbo diesel engine.
Do these have Japanese toyota engines, or are they shared with another brand?
Are there any known engine faults with these engines?
Many thanks in advance for any replies.
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Also, talking about Toyota's, does the new avensis diesel use a pug engine. I heard it does, but the dealership disagree's. Is this true. Also, is the Yaris engine toyota based, and is it built in Japan?
Hello,
My Renault Clio 1.6 RXE 1999 (24,000) auto has been having several problems.
Sometimes the Clio it is hesitant to start. However,
A few minutes after starting the car (Approx no more than 10) it will often cut out. I have noticed that this is normally when at slow speed and has never occurred when accelerating. Immediately after this it is hesitant to start, however it will start after a few seconds and/or a bit of a gas. After this point the car is fine, and drives superbly.
I have been using 97 RON fuel in the last few fill ups instead of the standard 95 found at most petrol stations. Do you think this may be a problem?
It idles at about 930rpm in neutral, slightly more when stationary with Drive selected.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Alan-Mark
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It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor?
A colleague here in the office has a Passat Tdi Estate and at the weekend was putting the seats back into the non estate format and accidentally fitted the wrong head rest into the centre position and it has totally locked up and he is unable to remove same. He has used considerable force but it just does not move. Any ideas here or is there a knack to removing the head rest. The only obvious difference is the centre head rest has shorter legs so the wrong rest does not go all the way in but is sure won’t come out. Regards Peter Read more
Sorry, no more ideas except perhaps levering between the head rest and the seat top with a clean piece of wood protected by thick cloth. Someone will have to hold the latch in at the same time. On my Passat estate they usually come out with no problem (little help I'm afraid) Best of luck.
Morning all. Thinking of the future and retirement in a few years, I won't be doing huge mileages any more and am thinking how nice it would be to have something brutal, fun and classic for my 8-9000 miles a year. It seems nearly all second-hand Ferraris are very expensive ( ie more than £25K )and the more recent ones need cambelt circa 12K miles.
That said, there apprear to be a couple of exceptions: Mondial and - although getting on a bit - the 400/400i. Both of those seem excellent sized, and would probably suit my needs, but more importantly, their prices look more reasonable. Fixed-cost Ferrarri servicing doesn't look tooooooo horrendous, either.
I'd be very grateful for your views on anything relevant to this. For example,are they priced lower because the market doesn't like oldish ( 1970's - 1980') 2+2s Ferraris ? Read more
also see the article in the telegraph motoring section, guy ran a 400i auto for a while
There's a fair bit of discussion in the archives from a while back, but I'd be interested in any new opinions on:
* Good sources.
* The noise issue: are they all noisier than mild-steel systems? Or is it an OEM vs aftermarket question, rather than a mild vs stainless?
* Fitting difficulties (alluded to by one possible supplier, but he doesn't manufacture them).
* Things to watch out for.
I've received quite a reasonable quote from Longlife Exhausts in Carshalton and am quite tempted to go stainless to see my Capri 2.8i through to the end of its life. The original system is only just giving out after 64k and 20 years of life. Read more
Reading back what I just posted, I should stress that 'raucous' equates to the type of sound, though the level was not that much higher than stock, and being 'quieter' in the cruise was admittedly marginal. Some passengers reckoned there was no difference, though what is without doubt is that noise levels under any type of driving fell after a few thousand miles from installation.
Hi the Fuel gauge on my 1995 civic has started acting erratically, it has only done it twice, once when the tank was low, it started displaying over full, and once when 2/3 full again displaying over full eg off the scale. What is most likely to be at fault? The sensor in the tank or the gauge in the dash. Everything else electronic seems to be functioning correctly.
How would I check the sensor etc.
Cheers
Al
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You can get a free pdf version of a workshop manual
for your car free from Honda on the net.
The link has previously been posted by Aprilia:-
www.honda.co.uk/owner/workshopmanuals.html
My daughter has a Pug 106 98 R plate and I need to change the immobiliser induction ring on the ignition barrel as it appears to be intermittent. To do this the lower cowling requires the steering wheel to be removed by about 1 cm. Can you do this without disconnecting the air bag and how dos the cover come off the steering wheel. I have a manual but it fails to tell these things. Regards Peter Read more
Not done a pug but Renaults (similar?) are thus. Switch off the ign and disconnect the battery for a good 10 mins before doing anything else. If you look on the rear of the wheel 'spokes' you will find a couple of holes with probably torx screws in them holding the airbag in place. Undo these and lift the bag away from the wheel a few centimeters. Disconnect the squib plug carefully and store the bag on a flat surface facing upwards. Now loosen the nut or bolt holding the wheel a couple of turns but dont remove it completely. By sitting in the drivers seat with the flats of your hands strike the wheel rim towards you, you should be able to jump the wheel up the splines, loosening it. If you need to remove it mark the position with tippex. Do what you need then reverse the procedure before finally reconnecting the battery (pos 1st Neg 2nd.
Andrew
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
I was told by my garage that they coudn\'t get one of the rear brake drums off to check the brake linings, as the linings had probably scored their own groove into the inner of the drum. The handbrake now doesn\'t seem to work on this side. Can anyone tell me if this means that the whole drum assembly will have to be renewed. Read more
If the oxy-acetelene gear doesn't work, the sledgehammers don't budge it, and the angle grinder won't do it - all I can suggest is one of those large iron ball thingies that are swung from cranes.
Be very careful though, ear defenders and goggles are a must.
I've been removing stuck brake drums for the last 40 odd years and never yet had to resort to some of the methods described. A bit of patience and 'know how' always works.
Browse
check all the hoses: any with bleed screws tend to perish and because costly are not replaced when they should be. Thye may leak only under pressure.
Have you checked the oil level to ensure it is not a haead gasket leak into the engine oil?
I vote for hoses: run the engine up to temperature and leave to idle on a hot day and wait...
madf