June 2004
Has anyone experienced stooling in the Focus TDCI.
This is the second one that i have owned the previous was pre TDCI and not once did i experience this one stooling. I have mentioned this problem at service only to be told that "a few adjustments have been made" and it should be ok. Read more
Can anyone help,
I have a 1987 2.4d 4x4 Hilux.
The problem is that lately the two front wheels dont get any power when 4wd and fwhubs are engaged,the front drive shaft just keeps spinning away with only the rear wheels getting power,
I am wondering if it is a freewheling hub problem or maybe the diff itself...any ideas..
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I have serviced my friends 1.6 Mondeo Zetec for a number of years, and it has now failed the MOT on high Lambda and Co emmissions; also high HC readings. I am of the opinion that one or more piston rings have failed, but none of the sites I have visited have recorded any similar problems, although another friend commented how he has suffered the same fault. Other than the usual Mondeo problems, is this a known fault? No running problems recorded. Read more
Thanks for the info so far, although my mate has also reported unusual higher oil consumption, blue smoke... I will try a new lambda sensor, as this seems another common problem at 100K or more (105000mls)but I will let you know. thanks again all..
I have an 1949 Morris minor that has been fitted with an 803cc engine and gearbox. I replaced the engine a while ago and since then have had a very bad judder when trying to set off in first gear. I have removed the box and fitted an new thrust plate, carbon plate and clutch plate all to no avail.There is no judder in reverse and the gear changes are reasonable.
I have the following options.
1. Try to obtain another gearbox and see if that will solve the problem
2. Fit a side valve engine and gearbox, This will involve obtaining a new more parts that are different and not an easy job
Is there anything you can suggest without resorting to the above major surgery.
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I had a MM convertible-sorry tourer.1951 so lights in wing but split screen-side valve engine and mechanical clutch with TIEBAR-if the adjustment on the tiebar was incorrect,you got judder.You had to take a run at steep hills-if you stopped on a hill,you had to roll back down.
Recently i was involved in an accident. It was at on a two lane section of road approaching traffic lights. The lights for the right hand lane were red and the traffic in that lane stationary. A driver coming the opposite direction turned right and didnt bother to check the second lane and drove straight into the side of my car while i was doing 30mph, damaging the drivers door, back door and back wheel arch. They then offered to pay for the damage in at least three seperate phone calls and are now saying that they will take it to the insurance company and that their insurance company has said it will be 'knock for knock'. Unfortunatly there were no witnesses who stopped but the damage to my car seems pretty conclusive... any thoughts? Read more
You're probably right but be careful.
All too often somebody will think that they are going to settle the claim privately. They don't submit an insurance claim. Then either the other guy changes his mind about paying or there is a disagreement about how much should be paid.
Before you know where you are you have no money, no car, no chance of an insurance claim and the only recourse is a futile trip to the Small Claims court to sue a guy for money he hasn't got anyway.
So, agree with care. "if you pay me £x by dd/mm/yy then I will not progress the claim. At the end of that day I am progressing it no matter what".
Also don't get into any argumetns about the cost of repair. £600 settles the claim an dwhether or not you get the car repaired and how much you pay for that repair is your business, not his, and should not be part of the discussion.
I have a light problem with the rover i just bought. 4 days after getting it the block cracked but not in the way i would have expected. there is not oil in the water or water in the oil all the cracks seem to affect is the containment of water in the engine. the engine its self stars and runs perfectly. i just wanted to know if there was any way to get around this problem without replacing the engine. Any help would be great.
D Read more
I havent come across a rover that has a cracked block.first time for everything.did you not notice anything unusual before it cracked ie overheating.the only thing I can think of is you had a weak block.where is the crack it may tell as to why.It will depend on where the crack is as to whether it is fixable?.
I expect others will correct if I am wrong?
I'm completely out of depth on this one: my partner has been offered a free small trailer, which would be quite handy for her business in garden maintenance/design. She drives a T-reg 306 HDi estate.
Questions: is fitting a towbar a fairly straightforward DIY job or not? I realise that the electrics are involved here.
If it is a DIY thing, can anyone give useful hints and advice? If it's not a DIY thing, can anyone recommend a fitter? (I'm in West Hertfordshire.) Read more
For a price comparison www.towbarsdirect.co.uk does the following:
306 estate towbar (Witter brand) £107 inc vat
50mm tow ball & cover £5.50
"Single" electrics kit, with scotch-locks and buzzer £6.50
Delivery £8.50
Total £127.50
If your T-reg 306 has bulb failure sensing (I don't know), you need a 7-way by-pass relay kit as well (£19.95) and run a separate fused feed from the battery to the by-pass relay. Read the comments on towbarsdirect's web site.
I can recommend Witter towbars from personal experience.
I have had no dealings with towbarsdirect.
Ian
Hi all,
As the subject says the air con on my 2000 reg BMW 323i has broken down. There's roughly 100k miles on the clock. A local garage recharged it about a month ago, giving me the impression that this would solve the problem. However, while this fixed it for three weeks or so there is now no cold air coming out at all, which I assume means that it is leaking. Having talked to the garage they say that they can't find a leak (they apparently couldn't spot any dye that they claim was put in at the first recharge) and that they will need to change the condenser, some other stuff (they specified it better than that but I'm crap at cars and the note is still at work ;)) and then recharge it again. When buying the vehicle I took out a warranty, but this doesn't cover wear and tear. The indications I've received from the garage and the warranty company is that the problem is likely to be due to just wear and tear.
My question therefore is: Is it normal that the air con only lasts four years on a BMW?
Actually, I have some more questions:
* How do I know that changing the stuff suggested will actually fix the problem? Is it likely that this is the fault? I don't want to spend hundreds of pounds on this only to find out later that there was just a leak after all (which I assume is easier/cheaper to fix).
* Would the garage have anything to gain from classifying this as wear and tear as opposed to a breakdown (which the warranty would cover)? The garage has been recommended to me in the past by the warranty company.
* Isn't it strange that if say a stone hits the condenser while you are driving along it would be classified as wear and tear? If that is wear and tear, then what is a breakdown?
Any input would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Otto
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It did turn out that there was a leak in the condenser (there was a big green spot of dye on it), so they changed it and it now seems to be working. I'll try the warranty company again, but thanks for the tip about BMW, I'll try that if I don't have any luck with the warranty company.
Radio 4\'s Today programme is broadcasting from Llandudno on Saturday. I didn\'t quite get what it is at, but it\'s something to do with Brunstrom and speed cameras. Think there may be some conferance on or something. In anycase, you can get tickets to the event at www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/today/index.shtml Read more
Ways to avoid a fine. www.comcen.com.au/~heretic/humour/image_speedcam.h...l
Having posted some months ago regarding a car for my lad to learn to drive in, I've decided to bite the bullet & buy one of the above, an early facelift model from 1999 onwards with the 1.2 8v engine. This decision has been made on safety grounds. However, I have no experience of life with a Fiat - do any of the backroomers have any comments on this particular car?
BTW, please do not make suggestions for alternative cars, I'm just looking for comments on this specific car at the moment. I may change my mind depending on the consensus of opinion....! Read more
Agree here with Budu's comments.
I'd recommend them. Run a 1.2 16v HLX CVT. Fantastic space inside and the aircon is spot on at this time of year. Granted, it looks a little ugly from the back, but having the slightly wider 185/60 14 Pirelli P3000 Energies at each corner gives the car a more 'agressive', sturdy look from behind and front.
Yes, the ride is shockingly hard and will rattle your fillings; there's a little groan from brakes when used at low speed (even though drum and discs/pads checked at recent Fiat service); two candles would be better than the headlights; the sunroof cover never stays in place; and 3/4 visibility is nil, but I like it. Put your foot to the axminster from a standing start and the peppy little 1242cc will haul you to 40 in light speed with the CVT making optimal use of gearing. Plenty of astonished 'hot-hatch' brigade looks. Great! However, it's not great from 40-60 / 50-70 and overtaking on single roads takes a little confidence!
Browse
This was common also on Ford petrol engines. My 95 Mondeo 1.8 did the same. If you dipped the clutch while rolling along the engine was doing 1500 rpm. It dropped to about 700 rpm when the car stopped moving. Ford dealers said it was "normal".