August 2003

Forum Match.com
M.M

Not like me to stray off motoring these days but....

Noticed the ad bottom left yet?

Those guys seem to have got to know each other real quick. Still if you've nothing else to do on a rainy day....

M.M
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Mark (RLBS)

And that'll be enough, I think.

Thank you.

Dude - {P}

My daughter has just had her first service (7k miles) on her Ford Ka, and was somewhat taken back by a charge of £115. For a comparison the first oil and filter change at 6.5k miles on my 320d was £77 which included the cost of 5 litres of Castrol SLX synthetic oil at £11 per litre. For a mere oil and filter change, are Ford not being a trifle greedy ???? Read more

Aprilia

Makro have had Mobil 1 on offer at £19.99 for a can (4 litre ??) in the past. I can buy SL-rated fully synth at £2 a litre (in 25l drum) from the GM dealer where I have a trade account. Elf fully synth is about £17 for 5 litre (retail) from my local Elf lubricants dealer.

BB

Hello everyone,
Hope you are all well.

Recently (2500 miles ago), I had a cam belt jump a tooth due to a failure of the alternator belt. Remains of the alternator belt was the cause of the cam belt to jump. This was then fixed by VW -no engine damage.

On the way to work this morning, I had a sudden loss of power and the alternator light lit up on my dashboard display along with a loss of power steering (as the alternator belt also drives the power steering.) I pulled over to the hard shoulder and switched the engine off. I looked under the bonnet, the alternator belt was still intact. After a couple of minutes, I tried to restart, but it wouldn't. .

I have now taken the car back to the VW garage where the tensioner and Cam belt were replaced to see what the problem is. I am unsure as to whether the cam belt has jumped again or snapped, but have any back roomers got any ideas as to what the problem is?

The loss of power was identical to when the cam belt jumped last time, but I can't understand why the alternator light lit up on the dashboard unless it is a faulty alternator, or I have had something seize on me in that area (water pump?!?) The RAC chap who came to see me thought that it was a cam belt issue.

How could the cam belt jump? I have still got the cam belt under guarantee, so any issues with a direct fault with the cam belt / tensioner will be done under guarantee. (I pointed this out to VW)

Any replies will be most welcome. Thaks in advance. Read more

BB

Understood Sean.
Thanks.

Baldrick-uk

Hi all

I did a quick search for this and couldn't find anything. Basically a friend of mines Mondeo failed the MOT for 'yellow' headlights. Evidently the reflectors go yellow after a time, I have got the parts, the ford info is

Lens 7304999 price 15.16 plus vat and
Lens 7304997 price 19.45 plus vat

In case anyone else needs these.

My problem is that i've got to remove the bumper to gain access to the light unit clips or do I??

If so what's the best way to attack this/where are the attachment points.

Ta in advance.

Baldrick
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Baldrick-uk

Cheers, sorted.


Baldrick
--------------------
If at first you don\'t succeed, don\'t take up skydiving.

Forum Eurekar
Pixie

Has anyone out there any experience of dealing with www.eurekar.com? Read more

Pixie

3 yr manufacturers warranty, 12 weeks delivery, not sure if fixed in £s or euros. Thing is, do you know if they're OK to do business with, as it's sometimes hard to get hold of them. I don't want to lose my hard earned wedge...

HF

I recently took out two car insurance policies with the same internet insurasnce company.

They seemed the best deal at the time.

Since then, however, they have debited the relevant bank account with the money from the 2 policies, when I had only authorised them to take one, until mid-month.

I had only ensured enough cash was in the account to pay for the policy that I had authorised them to take for. They have, however, written to tell me that they have charged a fee of £25 for me not having the money for both policies available.

As I said, it is basically an internet company. I have tried their 'e-chat'service with no response, I have emailed them 3 times now with no response, despite their promise to respond to all email queries within an hour. It is impossib;e to contact them via telephone.

Any ideas as to what I can do greatly appreciated.

HF

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HF

Thanks David.

It's definitely the insurance company who have charged the fee.

However, I suppose that is irrelevant if this DD guarantee will cover it.

All the same, I'm regretting using this broker, and won't do so again.

HF

melatonin

Hi all,

I've just got myself a 93 K Fiat Uno 1 litre Start (FIRE) and while it runs great generally, it makes a concerning screaming type noise when revved hard in 1st, 2nd and third gear, and occasionally 4th if pushed *really* hard. Although a novice I'm pretty sure it's not the timing belt slipping because the noise isn't as loud as that, nor as prolonged.

I'm an engine newbie so I have no idea what I'm looking for, although I have noticed upon inspection of the engine compartment that the small pipe that leads from the air filter to the exhaust (i think) is not correctly secured - it's obvious there's an imperial clip missing, and the top of the pipe doesn't properly surround the lip of the whole on the bottom of the air filter housing.

I've got my Haynes manual at the ready, and very little cash (!) - it's my first motor and I'm off to university in 6 weeks, so please don't hit me with terrible news!

Thanks in advance for any advice. Read more

Chris M

That's one of the benefits of running an older car. There are plenty of Unos at breakers and you're doing your bit by recycling.

Chris M

Glasgow Mag

Thinking of going for a new Corsa, the deal on odffer is too good to turn down. Only thing is - do I go for thr 1.0 or 1.2?

As an inexperienced driver, can anyone list the pros and cons of each engine?

Cheers. Read more

Glasgow Mag

Thanks for the advice. I am going to go for the 1.2L engine, hope to be able to confirm it by the end of the day.

Leanne

Hi,

I have set my heart on buying a new Fiesta Zetec 1.4 petrol. I had a test drive today, and although it didn't set the world on fire, I am still determined to get one.

I have had a look around all of the internet sites, however Ford seems to be offering a decent deal with free insurance and air con at the moment.

I have a 2000 X reg Micra that I was intending to sell privately to get the best price.

The way I see it the free insurance is worth £350 to me, and the air con is a bonus that I would not pay for.

What are peoples thoughts on the best way to proceed to get the best deal. I was thinking of asking the Ford dealer to match/beat the lowest internet price, plus an allowance of £350 for the insurance i.e. £8450 (jamjar @ £8100 ish.) I don't want an import, for fear of difficulty in selling it on in 4 years or so.

Many thanks for all help received. Read more

Blue {P}

That's not bad for the TDCi engine, I (foolishly) forgot to look into that engine when buying my car so I've no idea how much extra it would have cost me, but probably more than I could have afforded, it's a personal preference but to me the A/C was far more important so that's what I paid for.

Hope you're really happy with the car, I've heard a lot of good reports about the TDCi engine.

Let us know when it arrives and what you think of it!

Blue

EscortPete

I\'ve recently bought a second hand Escort 16V 1.6 Auto Ghia (thankfully, it\'s the Zetec-E version, so the gearbox hopefully won\'t pack up on me).

It\'s a \'96, done 39K, and been regularly serviced (stamped up roughly every 6-7K), and in very good cosmetic condition, having been previously owned by oldies down in Worthing.

1) The thing my girlfriend noticed right off the bat was the fact that there\'s a wheel bearing/fanbelt slipping sound between 20 and 35mph (1.5K - 2K revs). This is probably where 90% of the cars life has been spent. I\'ve seen another post here that indicates this sound could be down to worn engine mountings, but the sound doesn\'t occur when stationary and straining against the brakes. Any thoughts on this would be very welcome as I\'d like to get it sorted out while still under warranty (and before my girlfriend gets so wound up at the sound that she drives the thing off a cliff!)

2) I know that automatics (and particularly CTX) aren\'t particularly zippy, but there doesn\'t seem to be an awful lot of power behind the kick-down acceleration. When I put the boot down, there\'s about a 1 second pause for throught before the car rather sedately takes off. Having said that, it\'ll happily bomb along doing a ton (once it gets there). Is this typical of CTX gearboxes?

3) Just the other day, one end of the spoiler suddenly popped upward. The nuts are still in place (in the spoiler leg), it appears that the boot lid at that point has rusted through in a little hole. What\'s the best way of repairing this? I was thinking of aralditing (or spot welding if I can find one) a back plate on the underneath of the boot and putting the bolts back through (onto bigger washers).

Other than that, I love the car. Beats the heck out of my old Tipo!!

Many thanks.

Pete.
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