July 2003

Matthew

i have recently bought a g reg astra gte with a fuel problem i have investegated and found out that the amps from the battery are not getting to the fuel pump, i had disconnected the fuel pump and had it running so its not that. i was woudering if a relay had gone or something but i dont have any knowledge on these cars. can someone help?????????????? Read more

Dynamic Dave

Fuel pump relay on the GTE is same place as cavalier,
on N/S suspension turret


Andrew, slightly confused here. On both my Mk2 and Mk3 Cavalier's the fuel relay was situated in the driver's side footwell, behind the plastic kick panel. I can remember a couple of relays situated on the suspension turret of my old Mk2, but IIRC, one was for the headlight wash wipe system, and the other for er, um, can't rightly remember at this time of the morning.
pdc {P}

Out of curiosity, do public service vehicles, such as police cars, ambulances etc, have to be taxed at the same rate as private vehicles, or do they get free tax discs?

Would strike me as daft us paying our council tax etc for these services, only for them to be taxed. Why not just give them free tax and cut out a level of administration? Is this already the case? Read more

pdc {P}

Well I reported it via email to GMP and I just almost had a heart attack when a Chief Inspector called. First thing that goes through your mind, guilt or not, is "What have I done". When he said he was calling with regards my email I felt really bad, almost like a naughty school boy being told off by the headmaster!

I even apologised!

He said not to, as it was an admin oversight, and I was right to because it could have had implications had someone who had been booked for a motoring offence spotted it.

I was really impressed that he had taken the time to call and explain to me.

3500S

Two new cars from Rover today. The one that caught my eye was the Streetwise, a Rover 25 adapted for urban on-road use. They jacked up the suspension to 4x4 height. It has scratch resistant bumper zones, wheel guards and roof bars. It looks quite impressive and it's a new one on me. It's kind of compromise between the 4x4 and small car. Not bad for £9K either.

There's pictures of the car on their website.

www.mg-rover.com/content/Rover/en_GB/Rover2/~jsp/m...p

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ajit

Re the Citirover - Look at it this way. You need spend only 6000 for a solid durable car to drop the kids at school. The remaining 5000 quid can cover the school fees for 18months

Som

Hi, One rear door on my 1998 Scenic has stuck locked shut (no idea why. just wouldn't open one day). Neither inside or outside handle will open the door.
I've stripped off the interior panel and can move the lock button and internal handle 'rods' but cannot get the door to unlock.
Child lock is not on.
The central locking seems to try to work (can hear motor turn and rod moves).
Seems as though whatever connects the interior and exterior release handles to the lock mechanism has broken. Any idea how I can release the lock to open the door so I can get at it to fix?

Thanks! Read more

Som

Just took it to a local back street garage and they got it unlocked, eventually. Like you suggested Malcolm_L they dug out a Renault lock with similar mechanism to check. Turns out the fix involved a long, thin screwdriver, a tiny hole in an inaccessible place and swearing.
Who knows why it stuck, probably will again... Ah well, only £20.

Thanks everyone for the advice!

Plaistow Peter

I've got an Omega 2.5l V6 estate. Does anyone out there know how to recalibrate the external temperature gauge? The internal display is currently reading about 10 deg C too high! At a loss to find clues from the Haynes Manual! Thanks. Peter. Read more

corblimeyguvnar

Question for you?
What estate car, and I include Zafiras etc in this, would it be possible to get a small motorbike/moped in without chopping bits off?
Cheers All
Mark
Drink Lager Talk Piffle
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corblimeyguvnar

good for you

Drink Lager Talk Piffle

3500S

Some yoghurt hit my six-week old car with what I think was an errant shopping trolley and put a two inch tablespoon like indentation on my rear wing and a slight 1/4'' scratch underneath the dent on the top seam of the bumper. It's in an awkward spot just about where the rear bumper and rear wing meet. No note

The dent is not creased and looks as if it could be popped out. The scratch would be very easy to touch in as it's minute. My insurance firm are happy to do the work but with a £120 excess it might be worth taking a personal loss as I can't see how the bodyshop work would top £250.

Would it be worth giving a firm like Chips Away a bell? I don't know if they could do this kind of thing, my feeling is that it's touch and go if they could get a vacuum seal around the dent as the wing/bumper seam is very close. I've got a stonechip on the bonnet so I could get both done in one go.

Any advice/experiences?

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3500S

Apologies for the mockney, I blame a long lost friend who lives in Hackney who was on holiday with us last week. That was his expression when he noticed the dent, it's kind of stuck.

I wish I could go back to the supermarket, it's in Bude when I was on hols last week. I think I'd have a job convincing them, no-one noticed it for a few days.

I got in touch with the MGR bodyshop, it's £400 all in and I'm taking it as an personal loss. Time to get out the plastic and put it down to experience :(

Dizzy, enjoy the new car, stick to the 600miles @ 3000rpm though. Once beyond that, enjoy, despite the odd knock it really is an awesome car. I'd recommend Shell Diesel too, I'm getting 47mpg in mixed driving better than the Esso stuff which makes it sound a bit noiser and I got only 43 on the same kind of driving.

Wee Willie Winkie

Guys & Gals,

I know that various people have recommended Warranty Direct - but has anyone had any experience of them that they feel worthy of sharing?

I've got a quote of £18.91 for my 2000 Pug 406 HDi that seems to cover virtually everything, including recovery, which means I can cancel my RAC cover, saving my hard earned cash.

Cheers - I've said it once and I'll say it again. This site is full to brim of people who 'know their onions'! Read more

busker

I worked for a number of years for one of the major 'warranty companies'. As has already been said elsewhere in this thread, it is not warranty you are buying, it is insurance against the failure of specific parts on/in your car/van. This is usually defined as 'sudden mechanical failure' within the small print. How this is defined is very much a subjective opinion, usually of the 'claims engineer' at the suppliers of the policy.
All these companies work in the same basic manner: they employ actuaries, who crunch numbers to work out an acceptable(to them) risk of each covered part failing and approximately when. The longer they have been in business and the wider the portfolio of vehicles they have covered, the more accurate these figures become. They then set a 'premium' covering the list of parts they offer to cover (varies with policy type and company) and add in their profit margin and administration costs. Then they sell it to you via a number of different channels (some manufacturer approved used programmes are underwritten by this type of company) including the net. When you have a problem, they estimate how much the cost will take out of your insured 'pot'and will then approve, part approve or reject your claim. The closer the cost of repair gets to the 'pot', the more they will try not to pay. They usually look for a 'burn' rate (money spent against money taken for the 'pot')of no more than 70%. So, if your 'pot'is £100.00 & the cost to them of repairs is less than £70.00, they will normally pay it. Over that, they'll argue like hell!!
This is a rough outline of how this works. It is a complex and interesting subject. There are some good and some very bad guys in this business. Stick to a company who administers used vehicle schemes (not a scheme, but several) for the manufacturers and you should be OK.
Cheers,

Clanger

I started up the Synergie this morning so that Mrs H could go to college in it and the ABS light flickered and came on constantly. I hope it's a wheel sensor; can anyone help with resistance readings for the wheel sensors? Or is there anything else I should be looking for? I am ashamed to say I don't even know where the ABS ECU is.
H.

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Clanger

Tahnks Cyd, excellent descriptive post.
H.

Ben03

Good morning,

I've phoned 3 Peugeot dealers (all in sw london / ne surrey) for quotes for a new cambelt, alternator belt and power steering belt. Car is 1995 306 1.4 (TU engine).

The 3 quotes were £125, £160 and £280 (all including VAT).

The cheapest told me the cambelt was a fixed price inc. labour, and the other two belts were the cost of the parts (£15 each) as they have to come off anyway.

The middle one said the same thing (but everything was more expensive).

The most expensive one, phoned last, told me I had a clear choice when I mentioned the gap between his price and the other two.

Are they likely to be quoting for exactly the same job? I've read here of tensioners and the like - might the cheaper dealers not be including these - and is changing them necessary on a pug?

Or was the last one just not interested in the job? He sure sounded that way...

All opinions welcomed, as are dealer recommendations / warnings.

Cheers,

Ben.
1995 305 1.4.

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v0n

I was also surprised to find that 36000 service on 306 diesel would cost £340 at Warwick Wright City (Mile End Road) and £210 at Warwick Wright Chiswick. You'd thougt same name, same "label on the tin" and yet there is £20 difference for every mile between the two garages.

My advice is to pull up yell.co.uk, type in Warwick Wright and call every single garage within reasonable radius for the price.