July 2003
Remote locking has stopped working on my mothers T reg Micra GX 1.3 Auto. Car had some problems starting, solved by cleaning the battery contacts. Now the remote locking just won't work. Anyone got any ideas why?
Thanks for the help Read more
Hi again everyone
The diff on my \'K\' reg Carlton CDX is \'shusshing\'.....not exactly a whine or howl, but it does alter pitch (the \'shusshing\' noise that is) depending on car speed. It stops, or should i say becomes inaudible, after about 25mph.
It\'s not LOUD, loud...but the cars so quiet i can EASILY hear it (not bad considering the 140,000 miles on the clock) My question is, is this terminal? something to REALLY worry about? or will it happily go on doing this for some time to come?
Incidentally I posted earlier asking if anyone knew about \'Lucas\' oil additives (American). I drained the Diff and replaced it with this stuff (100% as recommended for worn components) and guess what?.....
Yup, it was WORSE!! the noise increased at least several fold without doubt. I quickly refilled with EP 90 (the official recommendation). It then reverted back to my regular \'shusshing\'.
Regards to all
Bob
P.S. There\'s no \'play\' either vertically or horizontally in the prop shaft or axles so i guess this rules out bearings?
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Phew!...many thanks guys :)
I'll sleep now.
Regards
Bob
I have been experiencing an intermittent fault which causes my car to stop suddenly. The local main dealer has tested it extensively (and expensively!), and eliminated everything but the ECU. The ECU was sent away to a specialist who tested it and found nothing wrong. However he did resolder whatever it is you solder in an ECU. It now seems to be performing better, but twice yesterday the car seemed to lose all power for a split second before picking up again, and I fear all is not entirely well. Does anyone know of a real ECU whizz to whom I could take the car for another check up, ideally somewhere locally - I live in Bury St Edmunds.
The car is a 94 Bentley Turbo R. Read more
topaktas,
sounds like the work on the ECU fixed the problem with sudden stopping so I'd get the specialists name from your dealer and make a note of it. You never know if you might need him again.
For the intermittent loss of power when decelerating, my first guess would be a worn throttle position sensor or a possible vacuum leak.
When the problem occurs, have you released the throttle completely, just 'backed-off' or braked ?
Have you noticed what happens to engine RPM ? Does it drop straight to idle or lower as if it's about to stall, and then recover ?
Does the engine recover immediately you press the throttle again or is there a significant delay ?
BTW. A new TPS shouldn't be too expensive and your dealer may even feel obliged to loan you one for a week or two FOC.
Kevin...
D'oh, d'oh, d'oh, d'oh, D'OH!!!!
My radiator was holed on Friday by a high velocity stone! An RAC chap has done an excellent job of patching it, but the next journey my beloved Celica makes will be to a garage to be fixed.
Who is to blame for the damage? Some muppet dump truck driver, whos' lorry spread a layer of large stones and gravel over the main road through the industrial estate on which I work. (I know who you are!!!)
I just wish I'd fitted a mesh grille to the front (like my mate suggested), so the stone wouldn't have got through.
Why do these things happen? Who is responsible for ensuring that lorries don't drop theirs loads on the highway? Aaaarghh! Its so frustrating!!
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Many thanks Volvoman. Just had a reply from Wynns, who say that if Wynn's radiator stop leak doesn't fix it, nothing will!!
This may only refer to serious valeters, as far as I am aware concept gear is not available on the shelf\'s but in bulk buy only to the trade.
Well I use concept for valeting, most of the stuff is good, but recently I changed my glass cleaner. I used to use Concept \"squeaky\", unfortunately my supplier run out of this and only had Concept \"squeaky XL\". Needless to say I bought this product thinking the XL would mean it was better, well I dont think it is, its harder to use and leaves loads of smears, has anyone any experience of this stuff? Read more
Many of you will have read my exploits getting a new car suitable for "The Princess" to drive.
Following on, trying to get insurance.
Some companies wont look at it unless she is the registered owner and keeper (not going to do that)
Some are picky over having alloys put on.
Some work out cheaper with her as the policy holder, and parents as named drivers.
It's a minefield.
Basically, she will be 19 when car arrives, a student (for the next 4 years) with no part time job, living at home (rural area outside of Tunbridge Wells - car needed)
Both parents have full UK licences since 17 years old, no convictions or claims.
I have my own insurance with a full NCD.
Mileage will be low. Car will be on drive or in garage at night.
Not sure it's worth the price of insuring her as main driver, so that she can build up her own NCD, as by the time she's paying her own insurance she'll probably be over 21 :( In any case, if she leaves home to go further afield next year, we may not let her take this car with her - we just don't know. After buying a car for her use, I do feel that she has to be on her own at some stage.
Anyway - I have found out that Tesco car insurance will let me have a second car discount and take my own NCD on my other car, into account (without giving it up on my vehicle)
Stand alone quotes for the 'Princess' come out about £1450 pa, but this one is £698.25, all they require is an original letter from my own insurer confirming the NCD. They don't even want me to change to them for my car! (£500 XS for her, £150 for us)
Have also found (girls only I'm afraid) Young Lady Driver, who do policies for 6 months only at just half the price of a full year (not slightly more for the 6 months) and will then renew with a 1 year NCD at the 7th month (at the prevailing cost) They say on their website she has to be the registered owner and keeper, but when I mailed them, they said if the car belongs to a parent, then that's ok. They also say no modifications, but confirm their policy on this - in the eent would exclude cost of the alloys for replacement value. This policy has both parents as named drivers too. (£150 XS for all)
Diamond also do (for girls) a Bonus Accelerator, which is a 10 month policy, after which you get 19% discount for NCD. This policy would cover me, but not sure about my husband. Works out at £873.95 in her name for 10 months)
It needs more investigation, and getting down to the nitty gritty - but I never knew about the potential of a second car NCD, and neither have most of the other companies I've talked to.
Maybe this will help someone else in the same boat?
Anyone else know any more bits of info please? Read more
Am not just totally obsessed with my own situation - am posting this, just incase it helps someone else too.
Best quote so far
Diamond - they are happy that I will be the reg owner and keeper. Fully comp policy in Princess's name. Both parents as named drivers. Low mileage (it will be) quite a high excess (expected) Brand new 98cc manual Yaris.
£1000.65 for 12 months (adding Mr H actually brought the premium down £25 - even though Diamond is for ladies)
They also assured me that after a 10 month bonus accelerator policy they issue a proper 12 month certficate which can be taken anywhere.
The quote seems very good to me though? (also have a broker looking, after they told me they had an impressive quote (was £1,700 something!) that can't hurt)
Are they any good in real life?
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Pleasantly surprised at positive feedback here as reports i saw on TG/FG somewhile back weren't too good (maybe just a bit too bold for them!), still haven't driven one. Looking forward to the day when i do.
A friend is interested in a new Cooper (non S) and needs an auto. A BMW dealer has planted some doubt in her mind by suggesting that the fuel consumption is the wrong side of 20 mpg! The figures (mixed driving) suggest otherwise.
Anybody got any experience of this one? Read more
Our Mini Cooper CVT does 37 mpg and has very good performance. The only problem is jerkiness around 5-10mph which may be solved by a software update or increased miles. The stepless acceleration from 0 to 70 mph is very impressive.
There have been no problems with the car in 4,000 miles.
When I first came on this site, I imagined that everyone here would know all there is to know about cars and car buying.
After reading some of the threads giving details of past experiences, some of which have come to grief, the penny dropped, that we can all live and learn, and that there must be other people like me who come and look in here in order to do just that.
So, based on Natasha's Daddy's current thread 'Help Needed' and my own new car sourcing experience of the last week, thought some comments and advice might be a good idea?
Natasha's daddy has bought a new car from a 'car supermarket' which advertises quite heavily in the press.
I myself had found models of the car I was interested in, ranging variously in price and age. I had looked at this supplier, and tbh was put off by the comments I read, which pointed out a lack of care and assistance once the car has been delivered.
I became adept at questioning if the car was an import, or pre-registered, and if so, when this took place. Technically speaking these cars are new, as in not having miles on the clock, but the first owner on the log book will be the garage, and it could have been some months ago. Someone advised that this takes about £200 off the value for re-sale. A lot of the 'savings' advertised are against current new list price, and in my own case with the Toyota Yaris, this has been re-badged and very slightly modified recently - not that this affects the car as such, but you're not, strictly speaking, comparing 'like' with 'like'
A pre-reg Yaris at my local garage was offered to us, but I pointed out that by the time I had knocked off the £200 above, the fact that the warranty/roadside assistance was 4 months missing (dated from registration) the fact that brand new Toyotas carry a year's free insurance, 12, not 6 months tax, and that this particular model is not current (Colour Collection) - I didn't think it was actually any cheaper than ordering a brand new car of my choice!!! (the salesman didn't have an answer to that)
AND if I'm paying for NEW, then I expect to get NEW, not something that may have been sitting in a compound for who knows how long.
Looking around for insurance, a lot of sites specify that the car must not be an import - that's something else to bear in mind.
In the end we went to two dealers and got a deal we are very happy with financially, of absolutely our own specification, and it will be delivered directly to our home. The transaction was totally painless, even the haggling - my husband drives a very hard bargain and even he was surprised! If there's the slightest thing wrong, I *know where they live* and can turn up and wait until I get satisfaction - I don't have to make endless phone calls to a disinterested and faceless minion on a switchboard, who couldn't give a toss.
I only hope the new vehicle lives up to the purchasing process!
No doubt there are bargains out there, but for what we wanted and how we like to do business - this fitted our bill. I could not better the deal financially over the internet, and I am very pleased to be dealing with a 'real' human being.
Does anyone else have comments or advice for future purchasers? Read more
Good point James - it must be galling for you now, but your youthful looks will stand you in good stead in the long run.
Reminds me of a time when Mr H and I weren't getting such great service collecting a small piece of furniture - boy did their attitude change when they had to load it into the boot of a Rolls Royce. LOL
(was his Dad's but we didn't let on - as a parent trying to insure a car for a young driver, I can't now imagine why my F-i-L put Mr H on the insurance for it, and lent it to us regularly?????? funny how we never thought about it at the time)
As a woman looking at cars with my daughter I found that I got better service by doing the following.
Salesman approaches and asks with a smile if he can help, and I say nicely "possibly in a minute, I just want to have a look at the build quality before we go any further - can we have the bonnet up please?" I swear one guy's jaw dropped - I don't think he imagined women know that bonnets open up at all!
When you quote comparative NCAP results and the like, they at least know you've been doing some homework, and don't merely head straight for the colour charts.
On the question of how long cars are built before they're sold as new etc. - having just got all the blurb on Toyota, I can see that they give a 12 year anti perforation warranty with new cars.
Thinking of chopping in my Mk3 Golf Gti 8v and taking the cash and buying a car from an auction for about £4-£5k.
I've done sone research over what to look for but i need some help. I'm going to use Blackbushe auction as its nearest to me but i'm a bit stuck about what day i should go (i.e i've heard a big lease company does their auction days on the 1st and 3rd friday of each month) as i'm looking for something a bit 'cooky'- like a honda legend coupe, or a honda prelude. Something with a bit of speed but a lot of refinement and is a little bit different. I;ve checked out BCA website but i didnt know if anyone had any personal experience of auctions and what i can expect to get for £4-£5k?
All help greatly appreciated.
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You get charged an additional "Buyer's premium", or "indemnity fee", which is insurance against the car turning out to be stolen, still on HP, or an undeclared write-off. It's usually a stepped rate, according to the range the bid is in, e.g. BCA's is something like £95 for hammer price of £500 - £999, £115 for hammer price of £1000 - £1500, and so on. The only exception is for their "Blue Light" police car sales, where it's a flat 5% of the hammer price. Smaller independent auctions usually have lower premiums than this.
Browse
If you've been messing with the battery contacts, chances are you'll need to reprogram the central locking so that the remote blips operate it again. Not sure how, but if you've got a handbook, it'll be in there. Otherwise someone with a Micra will be along in a minute (hopefully) to explain how.