June 2003
Now I know some will say "Serve you right!" but I am going to share this nevertheless.
I am the owner of a single axle caravan. Last summer I thought I would replace the tyres as the originals were starting to crack on the sidewalls. I purchased 2 new rims and tyres which were balanced. I kept the old rims and tyres to store the van on during winter.
Anyway rims fitted bolts proressivly torqued to 65 ft lb. an off we go on our hols. 2 mile down the road and bang - nearside wheel now off caravan and on verge.
Now I'm no stranger to screwing wheels on having competed and serviced in rallies. I'm also paranoid with a torque wrench.
Anyway wheel put back on ( which ai'nt easy when its sat on its hub.) and limped back home.
Now I'm thinking I've been knobled. Back on road next day new rim and hub, mudguard reaffixed and a hole in the inner wheelarch gobbed up. This time I used my other Torque Wrench ( capitals because its a big mother ...... ). Would appear my smaller wrench is about 5 ft ibs down. Also fitted where some plastic straps which slide over and connect 2 nuts; the theory being that neither can unwind.
Travels down to Dorset and back - no probs.
Friday pulls caravan out of storage and puts the new rims back on complete with the plastic gizzmos and suitable torqued.
travels up to the North Yorks Moors. 1/2 mile from destination when - you guessed bang! One wheel on my wagon. Nearside again detached. Now it was my fault because I had heard a rattling 1 mile back but it couldn't be the wheel could it? Found 2 bolts and the plastic gizmos loose inside the hub cap.
With passing help managed to reafix the wheel and get to campsite. 4 new bolts the next day and use the damaged wheel and hub as I couldn't find the keys for the locks on the underslung carrier. Drove home today with frequent stops and checks with no problems. This time the caravan has sustained more serious damage as a hole has been punched through the floor along with other internal and external damage.
What I want to know is what the heck is going on. I've observed all the rules - cleaned and checked surfaces, progressivly tightened all the nuts and torqued them up to the correct. Those in the know say that it is a phenomina with nearside wheels that has been researched but the findings are inconclusive. All they can say that it is usually the nearside as the rotation of the wheel assists in the undoing of the bolts. The same thing happens with lorries. So why not cars? The only advice that can be given is to travel a short sistance re-check and then check evey so often on the journey.
Obviously the consequences of stray wheels could be dangerous to other road users. The only common denominator is that the wheels have been disturbed.
Fullchat Read more
Hiya.
The suspension on my Xantia doesn't feel very 'magic carpet' like. It's quite harsh, actually, especially at the back.
I've had the rear spheres, rear anti-sink and front accumulator spheres replaced. This stopped the sinking when I started the engine and ticking from under the bonnet, but didn't cure the ride quality. The car had a new rear height corrector fitted in September 02.
Does anyone have any ideas? It rises and falls fine, the only thing I'll note is that when rising it from the minimum (Right down on the floor) position it does take a long time - it'll do nothing for 25 seconds, then the STOP (!) light will come on for 2 seconds, then it'll go out, then the car will rise.
It's a 94 1.9TD SX, with anti-sink.
Ta :) Read more
don't really have a reference point - it's just the fact you go over a bump and think 'crikey!'. Also if I raise it right up then lower it back to normal the ride quality is stunning for about a mile, then it's back to how it usually is..
Could it be running too low at the rear in normal running...temp cured when you put it to high and back??
GSF spheres OK as long as they are the right spec. Firestone tyres will be OK. If it gets up to a normal ride height running in the drive, and then gives that supple long-travel feel there is no reason why that should not translate to a good ride on the road.
Shot rear arm bearings can affect the rear comfort as Richard says but usually you would be able to feel this with a static bump test.
Is there any chance that it isn't self-levelling at the rear?... So it passes when tested by hand but when you get in it it's compressed to near the bump stops.
How does it feel running in the intermediate high position?
DW
Off to look at a 2000 and a 2001 tomorrow with 53k and 37k respectively. Both are autos and are for sale at main dealers.
Will be replacing my `98 V70 XC.
Anything to look out for?? Read more
HJ's discussion threads and expert reports convinced me to hunt down a Xedos 6. I am now the happy owner of 98S with 48k miles.
I'm already lusting after a Miller engine 9, but was shocked to discover that a cam belt change will leave me no change out of £1,600! Surely a major design fault? Are there any Xedos 9 owners out there can tell me if there are any other surprises? Read more
You have to inspect the autobox very carefully as I think they used the Ford one (ALD4E or CD4E?) and is a weak point of the car - basically the clutch-pack is too small for the engine power and they eventually burnout and you need a new clutch-pack.
Thought I would just drop a note to say I think I spotted a new type Corsa on the road today?
Has anyone else seen it, it looks just like the others but has windows that you can see through, (as opposed to blacked out), it has wheel trims on steel wheels,(as opposed to alloys) the windscreen washers are black and scoosh water,(as opposed to being blue and light up) it doesn't have any stickers on it advertising bodyshops.
And even better, I actually saw it before I heard its stereo thumping!!
Anyone else seen one? Read more
Typical, probably taxed and MoT'd with proper insurance on it.
I wonder if someone can help me. I am moving to Spain in August and want to buy a LH drive Toyota Rav 4. They are really expensive in Spain ( about as dear as here). What would be the best solution if I were to buy a cheap car in France or Netherlands, obviously I want to pay the lowest rate of VAT. And will be travelling around europe in it for a couple of months anyway. By the way has anyone ever used the services of Eurocote.com ?
Read more
fr.toyota.be/dealers/index.asp
Just choose the town from the cunningly named "Choisissez votre ville" section
Anybody ever heard of them. Have one fitted to the Cav. Not giving any trouble but best to do the research now... Read more
hope you can help here,
i have a 1988 vw golf 1.3 which has a loud knock/groaning noise from the front offside when i pull away especially on a hill,this has steadily worsened over the last few months,it doesnt happen on a full lock so cv joints i've discounted,there is also a rattle from the same area when i go over any bumps,vehicle has just passed the mot without anything being detected Read more
Hi
I have a 98 mx5 1800. Of late I notice that the car takes about a half to 3/4 pint of oil between services
Does this indicate serious problems ahead?
thanks
alan Read more
Previous owner may well have contributed by not driving it hard enough and the bores may be a bit glazed.What oil is in it? If a full synthetic ditch it and use a mineral or semi synth and drive it a bit harder to get the thing bedded in better, should improve things as time goes by. I am assuming that it is a Uk car not an import.
Andrew.
Simplicate and add lightness!
Please forgive me if this problem has been covered before as I have been told it is a common problem with this car.
My 1994 Audi 80 2.0E type B4 ABK engine has a temperature guage that works intermittently. I have replaced the sender but this has made no difference. I am sure the thermostat is OK as the heater output seems fine and the top hose gets hot. For the first time yesterday I also noticed that the fuel gauge was not registering although the tank was nearly full.This was OK after restarting the engine. Are these two things associated? Could you please help in directing me to the cause and remedy. Thanking you in anticipation. Read more
I have just bought an Audi 80 2.0 which has the same problem with intermitant fuel gauge and temp gauge. Any help would be appreciated.
Browse
Fullchat,
My recollection of C&U regs is hazy, dating back to the 1970's Can't be certain about studs / bolts / spigots etc. but it's there in the back of my mind.
I don't know about modern HGV wheel nuts but in the past it used to be LH side = LH thread. All of the new vans, 3.5t and 7.5t vehicles I work on have all RH threaded wheel nuts / bolts - except for LDV. they use L & R handed threads. Lorry wheels do fall off occasionally but it's almost always the twin rear wheels and usually within a few miles of a wheel change. If the wheel(s) have been tightened correctly, the cause is invariably dirt / rust / paint etc between the mating surfaces.