May 2003
Was just thinking today about what I could do to the new Fiesta with a small amount of money and I got to thinking about window tinting.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a window tinter in the North East, preferably Sunderland area that will be able to quote.
I only want a light tint to give it a little edge cosmetically, and of course I want it all legit so that Ford Insurance don't get snotty about it... Come to think if it, I'll have to check with them anyway...
But still, advice would be appreciated, as ever.
Blue Read more
The front part of the heat shield on my 99 Focus went rusty a while ago. It started to vibrate at certain revs. The two front most mountings were bent away by my local garage and the noise stopped.
Now, a few months later the noise has returned. I checked that the mountings were still bent away - and they are! It seems that the whole heat shield is now vibrating.
My question is - Does the car need the heat shield or can i take it off?
If i can take it off - how easy a job is it likely to be given that the mountings are rusty?
Any advice appreciated - PLEASE!
GC Read more
This advice doesn't really help you, but...
I found after the first winter I had my Focus that many parts near the front of the engine were encrusted in road salt, including the heat shield. (The road salt seems to get in through the front grills).
In order to reduce the likelihood of rust, I cleaned as much as the salt off as I could, though it seems to adhere well to metal!
The recent threads on diesel fuel, fuel additives, wheel balancing and tyre brands prompted me to take some action:
1. Filled up with Shell diesel for a change - I usually use supermaket and BP or Texaco
2. Added a shot of Wynnes diesel injector cleaner
3. Changed rear tyres which were showing wear indicators - relaced OE Dunlops with Pirelli P6000s to match fronts which were replaced last year
4. Had front tyres rebalanced - had a bad vibration above 70mph
RESULT! My A4 seems to be running better than ever! Engine seems smoother and slightly more powerful, and there is definitely less road noise (P6000s really work!). And I don't think it's my imagination!
:-)
Pat Read more
Money well spent then :-)
At least it doesn't sound like it's all placebo!
Blue
I've just been reading the thread in technical matters about how hard it is keeping alloy wheels clean and I've always wanted to ask the BR experts - why are alloy wheels gaining in popularity over steel wheels? From a technical view, I guess that they would be lighter, so have less rotational momentum meaning that the car would accelerate/decelerate faster. I admit they look good - but only while the car is standing still. But for the ordinary motorist, it seems that they are more expensive to begin with, prone to damage, expensive to replace, hard to keep clean and cost more to balance. Is it really vanity, or is there a logical reason why more and more cars are being fitted with alloy wheels as standard? Read more
"...how hard it is keeping alloy wheels clean..." Not at all. Just clean them when you wash the car, the same as steels, thought it does take a little longer getting between the spokes. A wipe over with car polish helps to keep the dirt off for longer. I'd guess that those that have a problem leave them to get very dirty rather than clean them regularly.
"... why are alloy wheels gaining in popularity over steel wheels?..." Probably because they are fitted as standard to more models.
"...From a technical view, I guess that they would be lighter, so have less rotational momentum meaning that the car would accelerate/decelerate faster..." Yes. Weight is the enemy of acceleration. 50KGs makes a noticable difference. Empty all the junk out of the boot and see!
"...I admit they look good - but only while the car is standing still..." I think they look OK spinning too.
"...But for the ordinary motorist, it seems that they are more expensive to begin with..." Not when they're fitted as standard.
"...prone to damage..." Yes, but so are the plastic hubcaps fitted to steels. Much cheaper to fix of course!
"...expensive to replace..." Yes. Locking wheel nuts are essential. Two sets are safer.
"...hard to keep clean..." Not particularly. See above.
"...and cost more to balance..." Do they? Mine are balanced free with tyre fitting and I don't think I'll need to get them balanced at any other time as they don't bend like steel.
Mine are not my choice. They came with the car. Had they been an option I doubt that I would have paid extra, but they do look very good.
Problem with 406 TD (XUD) 97P reg, 100K miles.
Losing small amounts of water, doesn't overheat, water not dirty. No visible signs of leaks when stationery, radiator look okay.
Did a simple recommended test - engine running, expansion tank cap off, can see small bubbles in the coolant expansion tank.
Garage has performed a pressure test and has said "makings of cylinder head gasket leak". Cost to fix £400-£500.
Are they correct or could it be just a unseen leaking pipe, leaky temperature sensor, etc?
Any help would be useful.
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I have a 405 with what sounds like exactly the same problem. I found where the water was leaking to when i replaced the sump. With the sump off everything was fine. Until i turned the engine very siightly. A few drops of water started to trickle down the cam belt end cylinder. I presume the engine always stops in a position where the water runs out into the cylinder and not the oil. The oil is fine.The water leak is invisible. There are small amounts of bubbles with the engine running and rad is topped right up with cap off. There is always a slight pressure releif when taking the rad cap off when cool. Also it is getting worse to start, maybe from water sitting on pistion. It has been like this for 3 years, very slowly getting slightly worse.
Just doing a read on the archive about the Ecotek, which I am convinced doesnt work (may work psycologically)
In the end, the valve allows a small amount of air to leak into the engine which will weaken the mixture. Assuming that I car has has an emissions test and returns with a lambda of 1.00 then as I understand it the car has a ideal fuel/air ratio - why would weakening the mix improve either performance or fuel consumption? If it would be beneficial to allow more air into the mix then instead of computerised engine managmenet systems the technology of the value would be incorporated into the engine design.
On the subject of Magnets, this was another item that I firmly beleive could not work (at least the eco teck does something and makes a noise!) - Having said that, a previous posting in the archive pointed to the QVC website. QVC list a device (515728) which claims to "reduce fuel consumption by up to 15%, your exhaust gases by up to 50% (up to 90% with a catalytic converter) and improve your car's general performance with this ingenious unit. It helps your car start more easily in cold weather too" - It would appear that this device is clearly a Magnet.
Whilst I am critical of such devices, I am surprised that QVC risk selling such at item without being able to substanciate their claims, to avoid falling on the wrong side of the ASA.
In addition, QVC offer a 30day money back guarantee, which is underwritten by the supplier, so perhaps there is something in it? and then again perhaps not.
Where did I put those old loudspeaker magnets.........
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we had a very similar discussion in this thread :- www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&t=57...5
Can anyone clarify what is or is not covered by a car warranty. I have taken my car back to the dealer for two minor repairs in the first two years of ownership:-
1 The first repair was a minor problem where the tailgate lock did not lock first time under the central locking system and could be heard going through several attempts before finally locking.
2 The second was a creak / rattle in the doorframe.
The dealer has informed me that these are adjustments and not covered by the warranty. I have consequently paid for the repair.
Should these small niggles be covered? Read more
The warranty you were sold by the dealer should have a booklet that states all it's terms and conditions usually in the same format as an insurance policy booklet. If you don't have one get hold of a copy ASAP.
If you have the booklet you should be able to judge for your self what parts and vehicle equipment are covered and what is not. Most policies exclude, for example, wear and tear on brakes but they all vary.
HTH
Charles
Hi,
I\'m considering buying a (1999-2001) Galant Estate. I\'m looking to buy an 2.4 gdi. Has anyone got any feedback about this motor or experiences of this model,engines, running costs, reliabilty etc?
Any usefull info would be appreciated.
Ta,
Sparkplug Read more
The depreciation on these motors is absolutely horrific, - at least if you buy an earlier model, the previous owner will have taken the biggest % of the loss !!!!
I'm thinking of replacing my 1.6 P Reg Astra (petrol) with a nearly new Mondeo sized car (diesel) to take into account a) 1 small son and all that comes with it! b) 25k miles private miles per year c) comfy driving position and d) with air con, ABS and cruise control.
I'm not in the luxury car market, so any BWM/Merc/Saab/Volvo recommendations are (sadly) not an option - are they? I guess I'd be looking around the 10k mark (including part-ex) and would need some kind of finance (e.g. personal loan at around 6%).
The HDci Mondeo (130bhp) seems the best option so far, but any other cars I should be considering? I like the idea of the Golf TDi (150 bhp), but not sure that a) it will be big enough for the family and b) cruise control is an option on this car. Also, I know the Vectra (old and new) takes some stick, but for getting me to work and back via motorways (84 miles) and carting the family around on holidays and shopping trips, is it such a bad buy?
As always, thanks for any responses. This is such a helpful and entertaining site.
Cheers,
TT
PS Don't tell the Mrs I'm thinking about a replacement car. Read more
I'll second the favourable report on SEAT dealers. My experience was excellent. I had problems with water ingress and they sorted it efficiently and provided a courtesy car. Servicing costs were £140/180 for annual 10K and 20K work. A bonus was having a Multi CD changer fitted. List was £349 but I was charged £235- which was what they were invoiced. I can think of at least one other dealer who would have charged the full amount.
Did anyone else just hear the article on Radio 1's Newsbeat (12:55)? Was about a car that uses GPS positioning with a database of speed limits, to limit the speed of a car. The reporter was in a 30 zone in Leeds and put his foot to the floor and the car wouldn't go above 30! He said that you can over-ride it by stamping on the accelerator or pressing a red button.
Can't find any mention of it on the website.
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In my case 'me' as I did the IAM training -
although I moved away and didn't actually take the test, then
had a couple of unsuitable cars, so still haven't done it.
Richard, I put off doing the IAM for years because of driving "the wrong car". Bottom line is it doesn't matter what the car is - you should still be able to drive to IAM standards in it and therefore past your test. RoSPA is apparently more difficult, especially if you are aiming for the GOLD level. After that try the HPC course with John Lyon - excellent training well beyond even RoSPA standards!
Needless to say I don't like the idea of GPS speed limiters.
I think that the bottom line is that most drivers do not have adequate driving skills and rather than something being done to put this right the government and other organisations have decided that it's better to tax the car and driver out of existence rather than teaching them how to drive more safely. Just my opinion.
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It\'s for 5 pieces, it\'s got four side windows and the rear windscreen.
The reason that I\'m talking about the unbreakable stuff is the security film stuff which should make it *very* difficult to smash the glass and get in through the window I think. Of course you\'re right though, the jaws of life could probably cut me from a Hum Vee! :-)
I didn\'t think that the quote sounded too bad, they look fairly professional as well, check out their website at: www.autotintuk.com
I\'m seriously thinking about it, but it may have to wait a little while before I can afford it...
Blue