April 2003
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated....
I am trying to decide between these two cars, both in 1.8 / 2.0
Undecided whether to go for the "Hatchback" or estate versions.
I will be using them to transport 2-3 mountain bikes, so I'm looking for which would be the best for this purpose as well as which is the best v.f.m extra's etc.
I would be looking at the £3000 - £5000 mark.
Thanks. Read more
Are these selling as well as BMW expected? Its over 12 months since they came on to the market and I've seen just two. Read more
"In a national publication today, a respected motoring expert writes:
" BMWs all have gorgeous engines, handsome bodies, sophisticated aura, gentlemanly demeanour, lapidary physical integrity? BMW has 'em all. By many measures it is the most admired car company. With the exception of humility, it possesses every virtue. BMW even, in these strange times, makes lots of money. Just as the old saying went that no one ever got sacked for buying IBM, you never have to apologise for buying a BMW. The view is that BMW can do nothing wrong."
Says it all."
Yeah right!
Rob P
Xenon headlights..what is the point?
Answers:
A. To allow you to be a poser by thinking you have 'improved visibility' and 'safety' when in fact you are just dazzling oncoming drivers (even with dynamic range adjustment thingy) with a very slight chance they will actually crash into you.
B. To allow you to drive extra close to the car in front so that the stray light from your lights dazzles them, which gives your ego a boost and the feeling of extra street kudos.
C. To allow you to see further ahead when driving along a dark road with no street lights, unseen 'dangers', and other obstacles at 150+MPH.
Surely Xenon headlights are a prime example of marketing over common sense?
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PS - how many people actually bother to clean their headlights. Even when they look clean they can have a thick layer of gunck on them.
Hi
I'm sure this topic has been covered before, but what is the best leather treatment I can use on my 1997 black Volvo interior?
Thanks in advance
Chris Read more
Thanks Dave
Looks like Neatsfoot oil is what I need.
I'm glad I didn't buy anything from Halfords at the weekend :-)
Chris
I need a small trailer - 5x3 or thereabouts. There seem to be plenty to choose from, but all the cheap ones have tiny little wheels fitted with what look like wheelbarrow tyres. The tyres aren't even flat across the treaded area, but rounded just like a wheelbarrow.
Anyone had any bad (or good) experiences with these rather nasty looking devices? I'm planning to use the trailer when I go on holiday - a 300 mile trip - and can't help wondering whether the tyres will be worn out before I get there....
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com Read more
Piece of cake.
Only scary thing was that all nearside wheel nuts were finger-tight when I came to torque them up before setting off.
Hmmm.
H.
I know that new brake pads need time to bed in properly. Does the same rule apply to rear brake pads - they aren't used as much as the fronts during regular braking so should I still brake gently for 200 miles or not bother??
Any help would be much appreciated
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Simple answer, yes. Give them time to settle.
When I bought my Celica, I spotted an invoice in the service history saying the core plugs had been changed. In the dim and distant I used to do the routine services on my Alfasuds, but never came across this expression. Excuse my ignorance but what are they? Read more
I know Peter said that this was secondary to aiding the casting process but I still feel reasonably sure that core plugs were never actually *designed* to pressure-relieve the block when it froze.
If there was very localised freezing right next to a core plug, then I agree that it might pop out and save the block cracking. But what happens when the freezing is taking place away from a core plug? If the freezing is adjacent to where a water hose connects to the block, the hose might expand and relieve the pressure -- so do we then say that water hoses are designed to stop the block cracking?
I well recall the almost-flat core plugs and these were universally replaced by the cup-shaped plugs because the latter were far more secure. However, our engine production people still found the need to use a sealing compound on the plugs to assure a 100% leak-free engine, this being Loctite 575 when I was involved 10 or 15 years ago. (In fact, the Loctite was applied to the hole, not the plug, because it would wipe off the plug as it was fitted.)
Loctite 575 has very good sealing abilities combined with low strength, the idea being that the plug can be easily removed if necessary in the future. ThreeBond 1110B is an equivalent that we found equally suitable. Industry buys these sealants in 2-litre cans but they may be available in small amounts from local factors. If not, there are other grades that would do the job if you ever need to replace a core plug, though a *hydraulic* sealant is preferable to Studlock or any other high-strength, low-viscosity, grades that might be found in the local accessory shop.
Sorry to ramble on again. Some day one of my ramblings just might help someone! Yes, I know, confusion is more likely!
I have got Fiat Punto Selecta on 45000 miles which shudders when I decelerates or accelerates at a speed of around 30mph and below. I took it to fiat Dealer they said that the problem is either with the gearbox or powder clutch but they were not sure and they asked me to keep on driving until it stops. I dont know what to do.
Can anybody help please!!!! Read more
Thanks Stator, I've got the number of someone from FATE in Birchington who I'm told should be able to help or at least point us in the right direction. BTW MIL's car has only done 9k not 20k as I thought. Somehow that makes us feel even worse :-(
I have a 1992 Toyota Celica 2.0GT. It?s done 108,000 miles and has a good service history. I bought it in November with 104,000 miles.
In the last month or so it occasionally dies on me. This can be dangerous, especially if it happens when I?m pulling out into a stream of traffic. The car will start to accelerate forward, the revs then die away. It then generally starts with a bit of cranking. It mostly seems to happen when I?ve been sitting in traffic for a couple of minutes. Sometimes it dies while I?m sitting there.
I haven?t checked anything, the plugs are pretty inaccessible. It?s one of those intermittent faults that?s hard to reproduce. Generally happens when the car is warm, not when cold.
I?d be interested in any opinions as to the problem.
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Just an update folks. Drove the Celica all week. No recurrence of the problem, so looks as though the engine cleaner did the trick.
Because we've just picked up our new car!
It is a 95 VW Passat estate, 1.8 petrol, silver, 57k. Cost me £2,900 with some Thule roof racks.
Been for a drive in it. Feels really modern. CD player, central locking. So high tech!
However, it is an enormous boat.
Anyone know what mpg I should get from it?
P.S.
Anyone want a 1990 205 XLD, two-door, 103k, FSH, 55mpg, excellent nick, £600? It is in Cambridge.
Zap me at slongden@ntlworld.com.
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yeah i was refering to 309 2.0hdi tried one yesterday and was blown away by the pulling power of thay diesel engine, and such a low insurance group.
I still got the primera estate though because it was cheaper and i think in general they're more reliable.