April 2003
Can you tell what damage could be done by topping up an engines oil level with fully syn oil (say RS or Mobil 1) which has semi syn oil in it ??????
PS the engine is a ford 1800 zetec
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Can anyone help please:
Golf IV 1.6 (8V) 1998
When trying to start from cold, engine turns very slowly and fails to start first time (or second, or third time) as if battery is rundown.
Bleeping noise eminating from the rear of the car.
Radio code and resetting of clock then required.
Eventually car will start after trying a few more times, perhaps by giving the starter motor a rest for a few seconds. Can then restart engine as normal once it has idled for a few seconds.
All dash lights appear OK, as does fan even when engine won't start.
Immobiliser (/alarm?) is VTex, which came with the car (bought as a demo)but I don't know whether it was factory- or dealer-fitted. There is socket in the boot to turn the immobiliser off. Wonder whether bleeping is from this system. Read more
Check terminals, earth straps and charge voltage 14.4 to 14 .6 or so then buy a new battery, a decent one. Peter
I'd be grateful for comments on the following:
The car is a '97 fiesta with solid 240mm front discs, and I've had nothing but grief with the brakes. The car has covered 73K miles under my ownership, and to say it eat discs is a huge understatement. I think it is on the 5th set of discs, and at least the same the number of pad sets.
The problem is that discs either warp, crack, groan when hot (after a heavy stop, or repeated moderate speed stops), fade in the summer, etc.... My belief is that as the car weighs ~1000kg the brakes are underspecified for the job - i believe it uses the same set-up as a mk3, just with a greater amount of servo assistance, which means more energy to be diserpated through a tiddly piece of steel. As the car is a cheap tool, and a great little car asides from this niggle, I would like to either fit the vented discs and calipers from a mk5, or ideally if it is possible (cylinder matching, wheel clearance), fit the larger discs that came on the zetec s. I have also heard rumours that the mondeo / focus / escort components may fit..... ?
this is not me wanting to make a boy-racer style modification, just fix the only real flaw (IMHO) of the handy little tool that this car has generally proven to be.
I have 14" wheels on the car, and need to somehow establish whether either of the above proposals are feasible. I am loathed to go ask at a ford parts counter, as I don't trust their skill that much (sorry to anyone who works at food, but I'm just stating the situation with my local dealer), and don't want to rely upon advice from the "max power" style of website that are commonplace for the fiesta.
all constructive comments will be greatly appreciated.
thanks.
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Hi
does you're fiesta use ventilated discs
try using a different brand of pads or disks
J Stephenson
I've seen previous threads on GAP insurance, but no strong opinions on whether it's advisable. However, my question is: must GAP insurance be taken out when the car is purchased? Most insurance companies do new-for-old for the first year for a new car, which seems to obviate the necessity for GAP insurance, so why not take it out after 12 months? The only person I've spoken with (VW salesman) insisted it had to be taken out at the time I bought the car. Read more
This of course had nothing to do that salesman taking the commission on the insurance?
I have a £5000 budget. I have to travel 70 miles a day (to work and back, half an hour on the motorway and half an hour crawling through sub 30mph city traffic, x2).
We (wife and I) currently have a '94 Golf 1.8 GL which she'll use most days, and I can use when she doesn't need it. But for all the other times, I need something of my own.
And I desperately want to avoid buying a bland-mobile, simply because it's economical and reliable, and regret it forever more, wishing I'd bought something with more personality.
I've never had a capable car, power or handling-wise. First car was an '86 Chevette, then an '87 Polo, and now the Golf. So, as you can see I've hardly been spoiled. Here are a few I've considered or have been suggested:
Mk1 Mazda MX5. Ideally British Racing Green, leather interior. Early 1.6s have 118 bhp, 1.8 has 130. Rear wheel drive. Light. Probably not ideal for a lot of motorway driving. And they aint cheap, and the Jap imports (which Honest John isn't keen on?) miss out on that UK car image and therefore the resale value?
Porsche 944 (really). Would have to be a mid to late 80s model, I guess. Insurance will hurt? I don't think I can bring myself to blow my whole 5k on a nearly 20 year old, mega high mileage motor.
Pug 306 GTI-6. Quick as you like, but one big problem for me: I don't want to look like a boy racer (I'm 33 and way past all that), or attract the attention of said plonkers. And are they not plagued with faults?
Subaru Impreza - likewise the Peugeot (without the faults?)?
Audi Coupe V6 or similar - I'm a little confused with the Audi range in my price bracket...
Golf Mk3 VR6 - how capable is it really?
Honda Prelude 2.2 VTEC - I've read lots of good things about these?
What else??
I've never had any modern safety gizmos on a car before, (ABS, airbags, etc.) so that would be great. I've never had more than 90bhp before, so decent grunt would be great too.
To sum up, I want something that's inspiring(ish) to drive (maybe rwd?), has enough power to not leave me feeling wanting too much, and is relatively safe. All for £5k or under.
I don't want much, do I?! Read more
Fiat coupe much as I love the looks are generally unreliable, expensive to run, have only an adequate chassis and be aware that a timing belt change at 65k miles is about £700 at main dealer.
Two quickies for fellow BR's..
1. Why has the dim-dip headlamp system fitted to cars post 1986 been abolished so that there are an increasing amount of fools driving around with parking/sidelights on? They do not seem aware that other motorists will see the outline of the car more quickly than the lights in poor weather.
2. Any other Audi drivers find that their headlights are poor on dipped beam? If so have you upgraded or just simply re-aligned?
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If the car turns the lights on automatically you still have the normal headlamp warning light come up on the dash.
Plus as already said if you want to turn the lights on yourself while they are set in auto mode all you have to do is twist the light stalk 2 clicks.
My 1997 2.5 v6 vectra is slow to return to tickover after the throttle is opened. Not a bad fault, but makes gearchanges a little slower than I would like. I've only had the car three months and don't know if this is normal. The dealer assures me that it is.
Any ideas? Read more
Hi
my mums first corsa in 1996 had fly by wire
J Stephenson
I don't seem to be having much luck keeping my Yaris in good condition. Noticed today that someone has put a dent in the rear bumper. It's where there is a recess for the numberplate, on the protruding corner. It's not massively noticable, but you can tell from close up and I'd like to get it sorted as long as it's not going to cost much. I can't get to the back to try and push it out without removing the bumper, and I've tried pushing it out and lightly tapping it out with a hammer but no luck. Luckily for me, the Yaris bumpers appear to be moulded from coloured plastic rather than painted as the finish seems unaffected.
Any ideas for trying to get this out? Or am I best off leaving it as it's not that bad. Not sure where I've got it from - it's certainly happened in the last week as it wasn't there last time I washed the car. It's dented enough to have needed a reasonable amount of force to make it. I have an idea where it has come from, but it's only a hunch and I have no way to prove it unfortunately. Read more
This might help:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&t=99...5
Having just had a MOT, the results from the Emissions Test make no sense to me, except that the car passed (mercedes A140)
Are all the test results OK (i.e running at optimum, rather than just enough to pass)
Can someone have a quick look at the test result, and let me know!!
cheers
BET Test Result: Catalyst vehicle with closed loop control
Fast Idle Test
CO = 0.00
HC = 00010
LAMBDA = 1.00
Natural Idle Test
CO = 0.00 Read more
Yes but it then fails due to rust
Hi Guys,
Whilst doing some recent DIYing, I remembered a tip given to me by an old landlady many years ago for removing gunge from hands.
A couple of spoonsful of sugar and a squirt of washing-up liquid will remove even the most ingrained muck! Don't use any additional water at first, just grind the sugar/liquid into the skin for a minute or so, then wash off - along with all the black stuff. Leaves hands smelling far nicer than Swarfega!
I'm sure many 'older hands' (pun unfortunately intended!) will have heard of this, but I thought it worthwhile mentioning for the benefit of less crinkly ones..... :-) Read more
Many thanks for that link. I've managed to find these too, but I'm not sure how strong they would be:
www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/m/MEDDVG/
Postage is hefty unless buying a number of boxes.
Tony
Browse
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No damage, long term, assuming you change the oil regularly. Ford engines do have a reputation for being fussy about the oil they use, Rapid Fit changes are cheap and even the OE oil from the dealer isn't more expensive than the stuff in Halfords (~£4/litre) so this isn't a real world problem.
If you're at all worried, phone your local Rapid Fit (that's the fast fit attached to most larger Ford dealers) and get a quote for an oil change. I've seen it as low as £15 using the original 5W30.