February 2003
Having recently purchased an E320 cdi I have noticed on several ocasions reference to turbos and the cooling of them.
One common thing to do is to allow the engine to run for a while after stopping to allow the turbo to cool down.
I have looked through the handbook and can find no reference to this so I have listed a few questions for you.
Is this necessary.
How long should it be left to idle.
What will happen if the engine is turned off as soon as I stop.
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Yes, I know I don\'t really NEED them, but I just hate the plastic wheel trims on my S reg Renault Scenic. I wish I could just either order-up a brand new set of alloys / tyres from the local Renault dealer or pop into Halfords, etc to get a new set, but I just havn\'t got that sort of money.
I\'ve now opened up a can of worms by looking into getting a used set - on Ebay or searching for breakers that may have a Scenic with good wheels (undamaged) that might fit.
However, it ain\'t that easy. I\'m amazed at the numbers game. To get it right, you need to get the PCD correct, the offset correct, the width of tread on the tyre correct, the wheel size correct, the tyre wall height correct and loads of other technical stuff correct! None of this I realised would be significant - but it is!!
Apart from all that, the only missing piece of the \"choosing-your-alloys/tyres\" game is one - obvious to me but never seems to appear to be important to anyone else - is the DIAMETER of the tyre!!
Surely, this dimension is so critical to get right as it must affect speedo reading, transmission and car handling.
Why can\'t I (just a non-techy bloke) get this sort of simple information?
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Mal,
this is totally normal in Holland. My F-in-L has had a winter set of tyres for his various BMWs for at least the last 10 years. Alloys with high speed summer tyres and steel rims with M&S ones for the winter (no wheel trims and a set of snow chains floating around in the junk in the boot).
I have a complete spare set of enormous mud tyres/wheels for the G-wagon (left over from Africa), 2 spare wheels plus an extra tyre for the Jeep (for desert bashing here) and a whole mountain of patched up, threadbare tyres of various but similar sizes for our Range Rover "bangeromics-style" rally car. It drives me nuts ;-)
CMark
HOW TO DEPLETE YOUR BANK ACCOUNT IN TWO EASY STEPS
Step 1
Place cup of tea on shelf above PC's base unit and nudge it with your elbow. Watch in horror as the whole system performs a spectacular "Illegal Shutdown", never to restart again. I always wanted to upgrade to XP, but not like this.
Step 2
Decide to hoover car. Open passenger door and proceed to poke about with the Vax. Make sure the wind is gusting strongly so that the door is flung violently against the window ledge causing a neat dent along the edge, large enough to be visible from Mars and also removing a chunk of paint.
I've also got a stinking cold and SWMBO wants a new three piece suit.
Apart from that, life is sweet. Read more
Incredable the difference an "e" can make, isn't it?
No drug jokes, please.
Speaking to a mate today. He mentioned something or other about when changing cambelts on Ford Diesel engines, you have to let the engine cool down for a minumum of 5 hrs before starting the work. Something to do with allowing the hydraulic belt tensioner to fully retract. If the tensioner hasn't fully retracted when the new belt is fitted it will be at the wrong tension. ie, too slack on a cold start up.
Apparantely Ford main dealers are aware of this, but a lot of independants and back street garages are not.
Anyone care to confirm/deny/expand on this? Read more
I am only familiar with the procedure on earlier fixed tensioner systems and this is certainly a rule for them. This is the type of tensioner that has a spring that tensions the belt but is then locked in position after rotating the engine a couple of times. Can't imagine why you would need to do it with auto tension devices though.
My 3 year old passat first showed signs of problems when the interior lights stopped working. This has now been followed by the power windows, wing mirrors, central locking and finally the car alarm kept going off. I fixed the alarm by removing the fuse for the CCM. I did note a build up of water in the bulkhead below the battery but have since removed the battery and checked the drainage which seems clear. There are no other signs of problems.
Please could anybody advise what could have caused the electrics to fail and secondly where is the CCM located and is it a straght forward replacement for a new part? Read more
Hi EJ. You need to remove scuttle trim in front of windscreen,remove pollen filter cover & filter element.You can then remove the pollen filter housing:held on by a couple of bolts if I remember.Usually the gasket between housing and bulkhead has failed.Fit a new one or clean & seal all mating surfaces with silicon sealer.The control unit requires adapting to the car by a dealer, or somebody with access to VAS 5051/5052/1551 test equipment.
Looked at a E300TD Estate Elegance today. May 99, 21,500 miles, been largely undriven the past year as owner had died and the family are only now selling. Pristine in and out, drove fresh, a lot of extras. It's pretty top end price wise at £19k. Would you? Read more
Andy et al,
I agree. The car sounds tempting, but unless it is being offered for silly money I would prefer to buy from a franchised dealer (and a dealer who is backed in writing by Chrysler Benz, and who places any new car deposit into a holding account).
All my previous cars have been imports; but I am buying from a UK dealer this time since the E270, with options and a small discount, is pushing past the £30K mark. I could save a few grand with an import, but I want complete accountability from Chrysler Benz UK if the car turns out to be a dog. No waffle, Bull S*** or excuses: that is the premium I am prepared to pay.
I've just had a set of 4 Energy E3A tyres fitted to my Xsara, the difference between these latest generation tyres and the Energy MXT fitted originally is astounding. Quieter and better grip. Not tested in the wet yet, but only a matter of time in Yorkshire!!
Costco say they have had the new Energy E3A tyres in for 2 weeks and they are currently on buy 4 save £35 if you have been sent a voucher book.
I have been unable to find any information on the web about the new tyres, but I guess it is just a matter of time.
Before anyone says my old tyres were bald and that is why I feel such a difference, they had a good few thousand miles left, and the rears had 5mm, but had been puncture repaired.
Pleased with the difference
Ben Read more
Any recommendations? I am travelling early May for 11 nights and I have been qouted £46 by Airparks 5mins from Airport! Can anyone beat that?
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Try Security-Park. Tel 0161 946 1646
The courtesy light does not work on my 98 passat when the passenger door is opened, also the footwell light on the same door does not work. Does anyone know a simple solution or is it part of the central locking system?
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If it's the present shape Passat the courtesy light switches are built into the door locks. If it's the older Passat the courtesy light switches are the 'old fashioned' plunger type and should be visible in the door jambs.
Last February, I purchased a second hand car (Nissan Micra) for my good lady from the garage I have been a customer since 1995. On the day we took delivery there was no spare key, and when we enquired as to its whereabouts the salesman advised that he would contact the previous owner to get it.
Nothing was forthcoming therefore I contacted the salesman again a couple of months later and he advised that he had had no joy but would try again. Again nothing was received therefore I phoned in October to ask if they would be agreeable to me obtaining the key myself (job was quoted from a Nissan dealer at around £30) and if I sent them the paid invoice would they refund me the full cost. An agreement was reached with the salesman that this would be the case.
Earlier this month I eventually found time to contact the nearest Nissan dealer to get the key cut/programmed in, etc and they advised that the cost would actually be in the region of £45.00. I contacted the salesman out of courtesy to let him know the cost would be slightly more than was first quoted and would they still be happy for me to arrange it and submit the paid invoice to them, or would they wish to deal with it themselves.
Response –
Will not refund the cost at all as we had (apparently) received the car at a considerable discount. My response to that comment was…………… not our problem, there was no hard pushing on our part on the deal, and there was no way that the garage would have lost any money on the deal that was agreed.
I again requested the garage covered the full cost –
Response –
With a 4/5 year old second hand car you must expect some things may be missing. My response was…………… absolute nonsense - scratches, dents, squeaks, wear and tear yes, a missing spare key…………no way.
The salesman then contacted me to advise the garage would meet 50/50 the cost of the spare key. Sounds like an improvement, but based on the fact that we were looking for the spare key from the day we took the car (but the garage has not been able to deliver), and the garage originally offered £30, (50/50 is less than this figure), I feel I cannot accept this and would like to take it further. The garage does not seem to want to budge but I feel that they should ‘cough up’ the full cost of the new key.
I was wondering if members of the forum could advise me on how they see this situation, and how they believe I could take this forward to get the result I am looking for. I know it is only 45 quid but it is the principle I am working to. We are not talking a small garage here it is a Peugeot Dealership from which I have bought 4 cars in the last 7 years, and this dealership carried out most services/repairs during this time!!!!
Can anyone help/advise?
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Garry: Thanks for answwering my questions seeking clarification. It will be interesting to see how you resolve this issue of a verbal agreement 12 months after the event. The dealer could easily get out of this situation as he could easily claim he never made that undertaking or that you were given the 2nd sset of keys. In other words, he could lie and claim taht you were the liar. Do let us know the outcome.


Mate of a mate was an engineer at Garrett. He told me the T25 on my Rover can hit 425,000rpm at full chat and idles at over 50,000.
He also told me that the turbine accelerates and decelerates very quickly - it is extremely responsive to throttle position. If it weren't then turbo lag would be really bad.
Once your engine has settled at idle the turbo is only fractions of a second behind. It is heat soak that is the big enemy of turbos (that and 'cyclic fatigue' apparently).
I gleaned this from a half hour treatise after asking if dump valves were actually any good!!! The short answer to my query was 'no'.