February 2003
I have posted about this before, but the problem persists. Thanks to all who gave suggestions previously.
Anyway, I own a 1999 Mondeo 1.8 LX. It makes a rasping, air resonating, almost pinking noise at and around 2000 rpm at part or full throttle. This is accompanied by a big flat spot in the power. After 2000 rpm (and before) the power is strong and the noise is absent.
It has done this since 26,000 miles when I bought it (now done 72,000.)
I have replaced plugs and leads, cleaned the MAF sensor, checked all electrical connections and breather hoses.
The car has full Ford history and all service parts have been changed, as they should.
I had the car plugged into the Ford computer, which showed no fault codes and no available updates on the ECU software.
I have done a thorough search on the net, including this site and have found many mentions of this problem, but no solutions.
The car is a later model with no EGR or pulse air systems. It has no air intake temp sensor, and I can't find an octane adjustment plug, as suggested on a previous post on this site.
It can't be the timing or fuelling (I hope) as the cars engine management constantly adjusts these things on its own.
I am starting to think that perhaps it should make this noise as part of the ECU program, to somehow control economy or emissions. My only other idea is that it could be the fuel injectors or fuel pressure.
Any ideas would be very much appreciated.
Anyone else had this problem?
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Is there a very good reason NOT to change the oil on my Mondeo TDCI estate every 6,000 miles?
The service interval is 12,000.
I want this car to last past 200,000 miles. It has done 20,000 on a 51 plate.
A car mechanic friend who I trust says he has a good reason not to bother with between-service oil changes.
He says the fully-synthetic oil my Mondeo uses is such high-spec these days that it will not have broken down at all after 6,000. Especially as 90% of my miles are long-range journeys on the motorway i.e. the engine runs at temperature.
BTW, I presume the Ford dealership, servicing the car under Ford Direct warranty, DOES use top-spec oil???
Thoughts please. Thanks
PS: This is a habit: I change the oil and filter on my 1985 Harley-Davidson motorcycle every 2,500 when the factory says every 5,000. It now has a far higher mileage (70,000) than most I see and stil runs great and uses no oil.
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Hi dave,
I am totally with you on this - no diesel I have anything to do with goes beyond 6K on oil, whatever the spec. Engines treated this way are the ones that do end up doing the high mileages, I assure you. Extended oil intervals are as much the invention of the car manufacturers marketing departments as anything from engineers or chemists, as this makes the car appear cheaper to run.
I remember a dealer service receptionist once trying to talk me OUT of having the oil changed at 1st (1,000 miles) service on wife's new company car! Said it might invalidate the warranty as it was not on the schedule !! "B......S" said I, "change it". I checked the drain plug next day and it was barely finger tight, and I am sure it was left that way to cause problems later. Names omitted to save HJ's legal advisers going potty.
I think you will find, 'though I stand to be corrected, that a Ford dealer would be using Motorcraft Formula E 5W/30 in this, which I believe is only a semi-sythetic.
Regards, Adam
First thanks to everyone who contributed to my running on problen I seem to have it sorted out, I bet i have spoken too soon now but at least if it returns i know how to deal with it.
What is more of concern/annoyance is my charging problem. I'm terrible with electrics, the alternator when the engine is running gives 14v but the voltage at the battery/starter solenoid is only what is left in the battery 12.5v when I have charged it but only 9.7v after i drove from Newcastle to Leeds. I have tried different starter motors and the cable between battery, in the boot, and starter appears to be ok. Now I have had the alternator fixed the battery lasts longer as its only drain is starting/lights, but it still goes pancake in the end. If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them
thanks
diesel Read more
And exactly *what* did I suggest in the first reply to your question ?
Dunno why I bother. [sigh]
My son will be in the market for one of the above in April. He wants to spend up to about £3k, doesn't do a huge mileage. He wants good handling (used to love my Alfasud Sprint) MPG not very important, car will be used mainly at weekends. He probably does not want the VR6 (which would be my choice).
We've looked at HJ's CBC breakdown so know some of the potential pitfalls of both. However, we'd like some first hand comments, recommendations, warnings etc. Thanks in advance. Read more
Alfafan - i find the gearbox a bit notchy in second in mine, but it seems to get smoother as it warms up. Apparently the self-adjusting clutch cables have a tendency to dry out, so it may be worth changing it to prolong the life of the clutch?
I would like to change the gearbox oil on my 2001 Golf Tdi 115hp 6 speed.
Does anyone know the correct/specification oil to use? Read more
On the Golf be very careful locating the filler plug. Not sure if it applies to the diesel but on the petrol the filler plug and a bolt that retains the reverse gear mechanism (or something similar) are very close and almost identical. Remove the wrong bolt and its a gearbox strip and rebuild to sort. Happened to an apprentice working on a senior staff members car in our workshops.
Its all detailed in the Haynes book of lies.
Do the new PSA/Ford diesels have belt or chain cam drive? Hope Ford persuaded PSA to go for chains. Read more
The 1.4 HDI engine has a change interval of 150,000 miles. Remember chains reduce engine efficency and make more noise, 2 points the new engines are meant to reduce.
Ben
For those who like to bash Citroen, read the front page of the job section in the DT. 10 jobs advertised with Citroen UK, 8 in sales or related - just 2 in customer service!! Says quite alot one way or another. Read more
SM - Serie Maserati
MMMMM I'd like one of those too.....
Richard
hi all,
just got a new corsa. its got the factory fitted cdr500 player. want to get the sony cdx-t70mx but not sure if its compatible. theres not much info out there about compatibility. anyone know anything new?
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Check out www.caraudioplus.co.uk they can advise on compatibility
Hi everyone
We have just acquired a 99 S Focus 1.8 LX 5 door and I have noticed some slight condensation on the inside of both headlamps. Its just a small patch on both and is on the sweep of the glass above the reflector where it runs back towards the windscreen.
I have checked the seals, there is no lens damage so I was wondering has anyone any ideas as to whats causing it?
Thanks in advance
John Read more
If there is moisture in the headlamp unit then it has
a flaw somewhere that is allowing moisture in. I would
check the unit over very carefully - noting that any rubber
seals are correctly located. I would also seal any suspect
joints with clear silicon sealant.
Aprilia
I will try to find if there are any cracks.
I have not noticed any wetness on the top of the unit when the bonnet is open. There is significant condensation above the the beam area ( as per first posting) and a lesser amount within the beam area. Fortunately the appears to be none on the reflector.
I have noticed that there is a sealing strip on top of the lamp unit. This is a thin rubber strip bonded to a strip of hard plastic. The plastic is attached to the lamp unit with Spire? clips. It is designed to seal along the edge of the bonnet to the headlamp unit, I guess to stop water being forced up under the bonnet by the airflow over the lamp unit.
On the side with the condensation the rubber is coming unstuck from the plastic. I am not convinced this damage is a factor in the problem.
I guess I can either attempt a repair or replace it.
My first thought on a repair is to silicone glue it.
My concern on replacing it is how to remove the spire? clips.
They fit onto several small pips moulded into the top of the light unit. What is the best method? A..try to gently bend up the little teeth. B..Try to cut the rim with side cutters then open up the clip.(a little concerned if the shock will damage the pips) C. Any other methods.
Just seen part of a very interesting programme about Rover's gas turbine car programme on the History Channel (to be repeated today at 16.00 and again no doubt, if anyone's interested).
As always in this country's past, it's quite remarkable what the Rover engineers managed to achieve with no computer modelling, very basic equipment and a budget equivalent to the price of an Indian takeaway in todays terms !
It's the first time I've ever heard this stuff and the T4 certainly looked an amazing car for its time. Read more
So that was what Rover were capable of and, given the latest X-power proposals, still can do.
Let's hope that there's no further external interference and Rover return to their true potential.
Browse
Andrew, thanks for the reply. My car doesn't have an EGR system though. Apparently Ford stopped installing them in 1999.
Whats a DTC?