January 2003
Hi,
Two probs with my '92 Astra Merit Estate that maybe someone can shed some light on?
1. Front driver side suspension - there is a rod that comes out horizontally from back behind the wheel arch cover and connect to the suspension arm. Seems to be a damping rod or something? Basically it attaches to the suspension arm via a bolt moulded into a plastic knuckle. The bolt has sheared off so it is no longer connected. The car drivs fine but I can feel it knocking on biger bumps. What is this arm called, how much will one cost and is there any way I can fix it myself? (I would need to know how to get in behind the wheel arch etc?) Dont think it can be repaired as the bolt is moulded to the knuckle so the whole arm will have to be replaced.
2. The car seems to stutter when I put the foot down in 2nd, 3rd etc. Basically when the car has to pull hard it stutters. though it was a problem with all the cold weather we've been having in scotland but its stil doing it. Seems as though there may be a problem with the choke, or the fuel getting through? Maybe sparkplugs or points? When idleing the car runs sweet...
Any light shed on these things is much appreciated.
Cheers,
Murray
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Another splendid bit of EU law comes into force in the UK today (anywhere else enforcing it ?).
Those with nothing better to do have decided that cycles fitted with dynamos are dangerous because the light goes out when they stop!
Personally, I would have thought that displaying any form of illumination on a bike was commendable these days! Read more
I wonder what the Eurocrats would make of this superb (BRITISH) invention! tinyurl.com/broh9hk
The problem with most Continental jurisdictions (and of course the EU is heavily influenced by those, don't we know it?) is that anything newly invented is presumed illegal until it's made legal, whereas our liberal British legal tradition is pretty much the other way around.
Can anybody tell me how to reset the oil change/inspection indicator on the current 3 series,not the one with the lights for indicator.I have inadvertently altered it some how by pressing the button on the dash by the speedometer when I was switching on the ignition.It is now showing oil change instesd of inspection for the next service Read more
Do you have the Owner's Handbook for the vehicle? If so, check out the page 'Service interval indicator'. In my handbook (Y Reg car) this is on p78 but may be different in yours.
You can toggle between Brake Fluid Renewal month and the mileage to next service (whether Oil Service or Inspection), using the button to the right of the tacho.
If you are saying that your car reads Oil Service when it should read Inspection, then I don't know the answer. (These two services are performed alternately).
When I worked in the trade the cleaners used to spray the cars with "TFR" (Traffic Fiml Remover). This was diluted, sprayed on and then left on the cars for a few minutes. After a short while you would see long streaks of grime running down the sides of the car. You could then lightly hose off the car, leaving it sparkling underneath. It's great for getting salt and other winter debris off without risking scratching with a sponge, although for best results I always used to use a bucket of hot water, autoglym and a sponge afterwards.
I've used a product called "Muc Off" (originally developed to clean mountain bikes) to similar effect (heavily diluted as it warns not leave on paintwork for long periods), but was wondering if anyone knew a retail source of the proper stuff?
No Dosh - but then who has? Read more
Or s0da, for another.
Is there any way of knowing whether a Peugeot 309 starter motor from the scrapyard will fit on a Talbot Horizon 1987 1.3? The local shop has a brand one in stock for £50 but I wondered whether its worth taking a trip to the scrappers?
I've been advised that even if they look similar on the outside, the "teeth" may not be the same internally so you just can't tell until you try it - anyone have any further ideas on this?
Cheers!
Patricia
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Stop Press!
Excellent advice on the repairing! I've just spoke to an autoelectric shop near me who quoted between £18-25 to mend the motor, taking about 2 1/2 hours. Hopefully we'll be able to get it off the engine today and have it going again in no time!
Thanks again - saved me about 30 quid!
Patricia
Hi all, hope you can give some pointers.
Jumped in car this morning, K Reg Astra 1.4 LS, turned over and then stalled instantly. Tried again, and same. However if I keep my foot on the revs it stays alive, let go and instant stall.
Being in a hurry decided to a careful trip into work (15 mins) which was slow and cautious (anticipation to avoid breaking) but after 5 mins of warmth was ok. However noticed that at a standstill it was idling at about 500rpm, wasn';t stalling but engine sounded like it was only one step away. AFAIK It normally idles around 1000rpm, maybe a bit more.
Any ideas? Has been running fine, has had new HT lead on one spark in last 3 months, but that was different symptoms, this has power without problems when foot down, and in this cold wet weather I suspect it's not going to get better on it's own!
TIA Read more
Sounds very much like a failed idle control motor.This is fitted to the central fuel injection unit and,from memory has four wires going to it.One possible test is to remove the motor and reconnect the plug to observe any motion when the ignition is switched on-it should do something when first powered up. You could try giving it a clean with carburetter cleaner.Let us know how you get on.
David Davies (Tune-Up Raglan)
I have a 1995 Citroen Xantia 1.9 SX TD 5 door hatchback.
In October 2002 the plastic ring which connects the clutch pedal to the clutch cable snapped and then in December the same thing happened. Both times I had the ring replaced, but I have been told it will break again and that the only permanent solution is to change the clutch.
Does anyone have any experience of this, please? Is it worth doing or just throwing good money after bad?
Many thanks Read more
Gary,
Citroen clutches have a habit of wearing out the springs before the friction plate. This leads to heavy operation, which in turn, on the Xantia, breaks the clutch cable retaining clip. If your car has done 100k + miles, then, yes, it's probably time for a new clutch (and cable while you're at it!). If the mileage is much lower than this, and it hasn't been used unduly harshly (lots of driving in traffic, or towing big heavy trailers) then try a cable change first to see if this lightens the pedal significantly - if it does then no clutch change rquired - for the time being. If it doesn't, well..... Alternatively, flog the existing one and buy another with low mileage - preferably an HDi - they're REALLY REALLY cheap now!
Richard
(95N Xantia TD LX - waiting for my first clutch cable clip change)
I met a friend over the weekend who said that the police were taking him to court for dangerous driving. I was surprised by his story as apparently he had overtaken a car on a blind corner and the said car (that was overtaken) had reported him to the police and this was the basis of the ploice's prosecution.
What is my friends best course of action? It seems that is his word against the other drivers and that there are no other witnesses.
For the record he is convinced that he did no dangerous driving as he was taking along his girlfriend (if that clears him!!). He thinks that because he drives an Impreza with a big tail pipe that the people he overtook took exception. Nice to see that the police in north Scotland have nothing better to do!! Read more
You do not have a relative that works for the HDM do you?
Not that I'm aware of.
I did manage to get the bike onto the (ex?)runway once - an out of body experience - well the brain must have been somewhere else ;-)
Martin
Hi all,
For some time now I've suffered from a rattle from the rear of my '98 Omega, it only happens @ low/medium speeds over anything other than perfect surfaces. I've spend ages trying to pin the problem down - I won't detail exactly whats been done - you will see my logic shortly. I'd like to solve the problem, but frankly on a 90,000 mile car that is 5 years old I've just learn't to put up with it.
Imagine my shock when this weekend I had a Focus on test drive/demo from Ford. A 3,000 mile Ghia TDCi. I was frankly amazed by the performance of the car, when coupled with the fuel economy & spec - a real little "belter".
Now the shocking bit. It suffers from the exact same TYPE of rattle from the rear as my Omega. Spare wheel bolted down (even tried removing it - made no difference), and everything is where its supposed to be.
These vehicles have as much in common as chalk and cheese - so any ideas welcome.
In anticipation.
Robert
PS - Focus goes back tomorrow so any quick/easy bright ideas will have to be quick
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Is this rattle from inside the car, or from underneath? If the latter, then from experience of my previous Cavalier, it could be the handbrake cable banging on the underside of the fuel tank. If inside, it might be the rear folding seats rattling on their locking pins. If it's an estate, it could be the retractable boot cover.
How difficult a job is this for a keen DIY enthusiast. I have replaced belts on V8 range rover, fiesta, escort, suzuki jeep and vauxhall nova. I am concerned about the need to keep other parts of the engine imobilised when carrying out this job. Advice please. Read more
MM
Thank you - I was not looking forward to doing this. I might just price the job locally before jumping headfirst into problems.
Coach
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Murray, as mentioned earlier, I've never changed one on an Astra. From what you're describing, the antiroll bar is a different shape to the Cavalier. It was just a round bar; it didn't have a flange on the end. As Charles mentioned in his post, A Haynes manual will explain how to change it.