December 2002
Is the sump plug at the front or the back of the sump on the 1.6 Honda Engine in the 416?
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These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads. Read more
A video explanation of the principles of Motorcycle Roadcraft as I see it. ;-)
First one is best.
www.vtr1000.co.uk/movies/
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These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads. Read more
Dynamic - the oracle!
HF
Im trying to work out the maths here and its not working!
So, Im putting about 60 quid in the tank a week. I fill it up with around £35 a time and can run for approx. 500 miles on that amount.
Adding on about 100 miles for weekend runabouts etc. means Im doing 870 miles a week.
I work out that Im getting 30 mpg ... in a diesel? Is this right?
Granted, I usually motor at around 85 for about 650 miles of that total.
but 30 mpg in a diesel? Shouldn't I be getting more?
Patricia
x
Read more
Mark,
In England we have to contend with sparrow and blue-tit droppings on our cars. Must be hell in Chile with all those condors.
Regarding a brand new one of these cars from a broker...
Is there just one diesel engine variant of this car? All the same 1.9 common rail diesel with about 115bhp?
Thanks.
MM Read more
V40 can have 2 versions of the Renault engine.
VOLVO V40 1.9 D (102 BHP)
Engine type: Four-cylinder direct-injection common rail turbodiesel
Displacement: 1870 cc
Power output: 75 kW (102 bhp) at 4000 rpm
Torque: 215 Nm at 1750-3250 rpm
Acceleration 0-62 mph, man: 10.5 sec
Top speed, man: 121 mph
Fuel consumption mpg (litres/100 km), Combined driving, man: 52.3 (5.4) Government Approved
Engine Capacity: 1870
CO2 emission, g/km, man: 142
VOLVO V40 1.9D (115 BHP)
Engine type: Four-cylinder direct-injection common rail turbodiesel
Displacement: 1870 cc
Power output: 85 kW (115 bhp) at 4000 rpm
Torque: 260 Nm at 1750-2500 rpm
Acceleration 0-62 mph: 10.5 seconds
Top speed: 121 mph
Engine Capacity: 1870
CO2: 142 g/km
Having just used etyres to have tyres fitted at home I have been googling away trying to find an equivalent service for brake pads and disks. Does anyone know of one? Or perhaps a cheap place to buy either ebc or ferodo pads?
TIA
teabelly Read more
EBC - contact importer
Sejoc LTD
13 Civic Square
Tilbury
Essex
RM18 8AD
01375 846401
They were helpful by phone, don't think prices were online
I'm considering buying a car at one of the "supersites" car supermarkets which already advertise cars at prices much lower than dealers at home.
Does anyone have experience of these places?
Is it worth a haggle or is the already reduced price the best I can expect?
Would they offer less on a PartX than other local dealers given that they are already offering discounted cars?
Any help & experience of using these places gratefully received.
Splodgeface Read more
They laughed when we tried to haggle and said that they weren't even going to talk about a discount.
Even after some messing up of the car's delivery we only managed to screw 6 months free tax out of them, so, unless you have some problems with the order, I don't think you can expect much in way of discount from the advertised price. I didn't really mind though as I was already saving over £3000! :)
Blue
How come when you go to a dealer and ask for their best price, they will tell you something, take your phone number then call you back a few days later.
You then go to another garage, ask them for their price, they may then beat the price you already had. You may then buy from that garage.
Then a day later garage no 1 will call you, you will explain that you have bought at a better price than they said and they then say you should have come back in and asked if they can beat the price.
Can the salesman then accuse you of wasting their time because you went to another garage and bought there?
I know that car sales is a low margin industry now, but if you have made it clear you want the best price now and will be shopping around, why do they insist on giving you a price they know they (and others) can beat? Surely they are shooting themselves in the foot. Read more
I have recently encountered the dreaded cam problem with my 01'Y' plate SRi. Bought new from a Vauxhall main dealer. Regularly serviced by the same dealer. Covered just under 27K so far (not too excessive, I thought in 18 months).
Still, Saturday 7th December, travelling south on the M6 at 70 with the wife & kids, the whole lot dies on me. no engine response, no power steering, no power assisted brakes....So, I eventually get the thing onto the hard shoulder. The AA come out and tell me there is no compression. I end up paying out 170 quid to a recovery firm (My AA cover only was for roadside rescue). BUT...... and this is the main point.
Can I get my money back from Vauxhall ?
If the car is still under warranty, why do I now need a new engine ? Surely the servicing should know about 20K miles being too long to leave the oil in (I admit, I didn't, but I'm not a mechanic)
I have had no sense out of anyone at Vauxhall, and am seriously considering suing them under the sale of goods act.
Any one else had similar problems, or can offer any advice (I must admit I'm fuming) ?
Ta in anticipation. Read more
Alvin, Sorry but I have no useful suggestion as to why the first belt split. I'm pleased that the replacement looks OK.
I didn't know that the marketing people say that the extra wide belt is for long life. True, because a standard width belt would have lasted about one engine revolution! The extra wide belt was essential because of the shock loads from the injection pump. Every time the pump builds up pressure for an injection event (i.e. twice per revolution) there is a sudden and extremely high resistance to turning.
This sort of belt width had never been made before but we worked on it hand-in-hand with the belt makers. A long while ago now and memories fade, but isn't it something like 3" (76 mm) wide?
We also had to make the bracket that supports the injection pump very strong indeed. Looking at it, it seems way over the top but it was essential to make it that strong, again because of shock loadings.
We also designed a marine version of the Prima engine and I don't think I'm giving away any secrets in saying that this is still marketed under the Volvo Penta name. The car engine is no longer made because the engine compartment of the Montego's replacement didn't have the space for it. I think this was the Rover 200 which was basically a Honda.
I have an Omega 2.5 v6 automatic ( M Reg ).
At approx 30mph the transmission slips, the TC light comes on, and I get a message " Automatic Gearbox".
When I switch off the ignition, the TC light goes out and the error message disappears, but the whole problem recurs as soon as I reach 30mph again.
I havent checked the fluid level as there is no dipstick on this car or if there is I cant see it from the front of the bonnet.
Could anyone help please? Many Thanks Read more
John,
I have come across this type of slipping a couple of times before (not on an Omega). In both cases the owner just accepted the fault. If the display showed nothing, I would expect a mechanical or hydraulic fault, however the warning that appeared *might* indicate a fault in the electronics. I know almost nothing about the electronic side.
As I mentioned to another backroomer with a similar problem on a Mercedes (which turned out to be caused by a low fluid level), if it is a mechanical/hydraulic fault I believe this could be a sticky solenoid or valve, especially if the car has been unused for a time, or only gently used.
Driving the car fairly hard for a few miles, with lots of kickdowns, *may* get rid of the stickiness, or at least reduce it. This was a help in one of the cases that I mentioned but the second case (on an American car in the States) was very severe and beyond such simple relief.
I have heard that changing the fluid can help but I'm a bit doubtful of this, especially since usually only a part of the fluid is changed, the bulk of it being trapped in the torque converter etc. If the fluid is a clear translucent red it should be fine but changing it might be worth a try.
If driving the car hard with multiple kickdowns doesn't help, it might be best to get a specialist to look at it. I fully support the advice to get several quotes if any work needs doing; there are 'cowboys' to be avoided in the transmission repair business!
Hi,
My mum is looking to buy my dad a satellite navigation unit for his car for xmas. The system we are probably going to buy is a Blaupunkt. However, we want to connect his existing autochanger to it instead of buying an official blaupunkt one. The problem is, on blaupunkts website it says it is only compatible with blaupunkt autochangers. I am not certain this is the case and was wondering if any of you knew? maybe there is an adapter on the market in some shape or form?
To those who know their wiring etc.. the connection on the pioneer autochanger is a 13 pin DIN at the moment.
Please help as if were going to order it, it will be in the next day for xmas delivery!
Thanks a lo Read more
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Manual or auto Transmission?
Manual is a 19mm plug on the front of the sump
Auto is a 17mm plug on the back of the sump - don't overtighten!!
HTH
Dave
MG-Rover Questions? forums.mg-rover.org/