November 2002
Hello everyone
further trials and tribulations regarding engine not cooling properly.
as advised before, I have replaced the thermostat as a matter of course, checked flow through the radiator which is fine.
putting it all back together and reiflling it etc seemed to be OK for about the first 10 miles, then the same problem, pressure build up in the big fat hose on the top of the radiator, radiator cold as ice, engine overheating again.
So someone suggested the head gasket might be gone, but a garage I took it too said they would have to open it to check it, and that alone would cost me £300 or so, even if it wasn't the cylinder head gasket.
I am really getting depressed about this, I've taken it to two garages now who both say the same thing, and it is clearly beyond the scope of my limited knowledge. (there are no white spots in the oil which might suggest water in the oil by the way.)
so please help..... :)
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Hi.
I am looking for someone to service my Fiat Brava. The local fiat dealer is offering a 41point service for £69 (
www.arnoldclark.co.uk/service/41pointservice.htm) but following the other posts on this group about arnold clark - it looks like a company that should be missed.
A friend has his Landrover serviced by the local Hometune guy, and has recommended him (I guess Hometune all depends on the local guy you have in your area, as the company operates as a franchise)
The Hometune premier service is a 58point service with new air filter/plugs for £99.95. The standard service is a 49point service (no plugs/air filter/or tune up). A quick look at the fiat book suggests that the premier service is more comprehensive that the Hometune work (the only missing item I can see is no new fuel filter)
Has anyone else used hometune? Would you recommend then? and the service they carry out?? Any idea what oil they are using?
Below is a copy of there service sheet and the checks they carry out.
Under Bonnet Standard Premier
1. Bonnet Catch Security
Check
Check
2. Engine Oil
Replace
Replace
3. Oil Filter
Replace
Replace
4. Oil Leaks
Inspect
Inspect
5. Spark Plugs
Inspect
Replace
6. Brake Fluid Level
Check/Adjust
Check/Adjust
7. Clutch Fluid Level/Clutch Cable Condition
Check/Adjust
Check/Adjust
8. Engine Coolant Level
Check/Adjust
Check/Adjust
9. Anti-Freeze Strength
Check
Check
10. Battery Fluid Level
Check/Adjust
Check/Adjust
11. Power Steering Fluid Level
Check/Adjust
Check/Adjust
12. Drive Belts Condition
Inspect
Inspect
13. # Cam Belt History
Check
Check
14. Air Filter
Check
Replace
Brakes/Steering/Drivetrain Standard Premier
15. Steering Joints/Gaiters
Check
Check
16. Transmission Oil Level
Check
Check
17. Drive Shaft Couplings/Constant Velocity Joints
Check
Check
18. Drive Shaft/Constant Velocity Joint Gaiters/Boots
Check
Check
19. Front Brake Pad Wear
Check
Check
20. Front Brake Disc Wear & Condition
Check
Check
21. Brake Drum for External Leaks
Inspect
Inspect
22. Rear Brake Pad/Shoe Wear
Check
Check
23. Rear Brake Disc/Drum Wear & Condition
Check
Check
24. Flexible Brake Pipes
Inspect
Inspect
25. Shock Absorbers Visual/Leaks
Inspect
Inspect
26. Brake Adjusters
Check/Adjust
Check/Adjust
27. Movement in Wheel Bearings
Check/Adjust
Check/Adjust
28. Wheel Nut Torque Settings (nm)
Torque
Torque
General Operations Standard Premier
29. N.S.F Tyre Tread Depth, Condition & Pressure
Depth = mm
Depth = mm
30. N.S.R Tyre Tread Depth, Condition & Pressure
Depth = mm
Depth = mm
31. O.S.F Tyre Tread Depth, Condition & Pressure
Depth = mm
Depth = mm
32. O.S.R Tyre Tread Depth, Condition & Pressure
Depth = mm
Depth = mm
33. Spare Tyre Depth, Condition & Pressure
Depth = mm
Depth = mm
34. Exhaust Condition
Check
Check
35. Shock Absorbers - Damping
Check
Check
36. Wiper Blades
Check
Check
37. Glass Areas
Check
Check
38. Door & Bonnet Hinges
Grease
Grease
39. Seat Belt Condition/Operation
Check
Check
40. Hand Brake Ratchet
Check
Check
Electrical/Lighting Standard Premier
41. Headlights
Check
Check
42. Front & Rear Side Lights
Check
Check
43. Stop Lights/Number Plate Lights/Rear Fog Lights
Check
Check
44. Indicators & Hazard Warning Lights
Check
Check
45. Horn
Check
Check
46. Screen Wash/Wipe
Check
Check
Service Tune Standard Premier
47. Cranking Volts
-----
Check
48. Charging Volts
-----
Check
49. *Dwell Angle
-----
Check/Adjust
50. *Ignition Burn Time
-----
Check
51. *Ignition KV's
-----
Check
52. *Ignition Timing
-----
Check/Adjust
53. Idle Speed
-----
Check/Adjust
54. *Idle Fuel Mixture
-----
Check/Adjust
55. *Gas Emissions to MOT Specifications
-----
Check
Final Checks Standard Premier
56. Test Run
Drive
Drive
57. Handprints/Cleanliness
Check
Check
58. Service Book
Stamp
Stamp
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just a quick question. Can I ask how much Lex charged for a service? and for what car? I will contact them tomorrow - but though I might get a quicker reply here!
I note that have three levels (interim, full, and major) (www.nationwideautocentres.co.uk/pdf/csmaPosterSept...f)
I'm thinking about buying one of these, anyone got a really high mileage one?
It's already got 125,000 on the clock There is some history with it and I will most likely add 20,000 a year on. Are these v6 engine ok for it?
Its a 94 model by the way.
Thanks Read more
And it's in W***s. - OI!
Can anyone provide the sequence for checking/adjusting the valve clearances on my 1990 1.3 OHV Escort engine? The Haynes manual doesn't make sense Read more
NOOO!!!!!!!!
1990 Model year has HCS head which is different from earlier Valencia head.
1 down, adjust 8
2 " " 7
3 " " 6
4 " " 5
5 " " 4
6 " " 3
7 " " 2
8 " " 1
Ordinary valencia EX,IN,EX,IN,EX,IN,EX,IN
HCS Engine goes EX,IN,EX,IN,IN,EX,IN,EX
Dont worry if they are still noisy, to get them really quiet requires the rubbing face on the rocker to be ground off.
Hello Back Roomers
I have to travel 60 miles each way to get to work and to do this, I bought a 94 Montego diesel Countryman (£500). I roughly average about 42 mpg and this costs me around £50 a week in fuel.
However, while the engine is still running like brand new (well running anyway!) the body is having trouble hanging onto it! Therefore, I am in the market for either a new car, or to do what I am currently doing, buying bangers!
I am now considering whether to spend the same amount of cash (£5-800) on another cheap and cheerful, or to splash out a couple of thousand and aim for something like a Mondeo diesel.
I am sure that other backroomers are in the same boat as me and would like to hear some opinions of what option they took?
I do need something that has good mpg. Read more
Anything that will get me from A to B is what I am after. It may be worth me looking at vans, but I am a bit sceptical about purchasing one because of its history of carrying heavy objects and the damage that could be done to the suspension, but I will keep it in mind when giving them the once over.
Hi Guys
Citroen Xantia 2.0i 16 valve petrol estate
My car is running very badly. It is difficult to start and when I've got it started the tickover is very uneven, the orange engine management light comes on intermittently. it drops down from 2000 rpm to almost zero then stars going again, also every now and then there is a bad misfire which sounds like unburnt fuel exploding in the exhaust.
Any help will be appreciated, or if anyone knows a reasonably priced citroen mechanic in the London area.
Thanks
Nicky Read more
Nicky,
You need to get it on a diagnostic computer to see which component is causing the engine management light to come on. Difficult to start hot and cold or just one or the other? Could be any one of the sensors the ECU uses, but coolant temperature sensor, air mass sensor, throttle position sensor and lambda sensor are the usual favourites.
Can't help with mechanic I'm afraid!
Richard
A guy is wakened by a drunk at 4am - goes downstairs, opens the door and the drunk says 'Can you give me a push?' The guy tells him to get lost and goes back to bed.
His wife reminds him of the time They were stuck and someone helped them....so he gets dressed and opens the door.
'Are you still there?'
'Yes'
'Do you still need a push?'
'Yes Please'
'Where are you?'
'Over here on your swing'
(Just to take my mind off the queue on the A120 this morning.)
Matt35 Read more
That's got to be something, going the Heathrow way round the M25 in the morning because it's quicker!
Interesting story in today\'s www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2002...l about an experiment in reverse psychology conducted by Wiltshire County Council. Apparently, whenever stretches of road are resurfaced the white lines in the centre of the road will not be repainted. The claim is that this creates a feeling of \"uncertainty\" in drivers and makes them more cautious.
I can\'t decide whether this is a smart move or not. Any views?
In a (probably) unrelated move, my local authority recently resurfaced a 50-60 yard stretch of a street on my way to work. The street in question runs dead straight for about half a mile and, for as long as I\'ve been using it, has had no central white line along its entire length. It has now though - at least over the 50 yard length of the resurfaced area.
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I have no figures, but my experience is this. The road in question is a moderately busy dual carriageway, with the roundabout having four exits, including the main dualled road. The two minor exits take you to villages, so they are also quite busy. Until they did this it was extremely nervewracking turning right, because the traffic didn't slow down. It was very common to see tyre smoke as drivers spotted you were going to cross their path, and of course right-turners held up traffic on the roundabout rather than throw themselves in front of the oncoming vehicles. Turning right is a breeze now, because everyone stops and has a good look. The laws of physics don't apply to motorcyclists, of course, but it may be that they can see over the obstruction.
I've got the old Golf ('88 1.6) back on the road with a combination of my hard work, money and the local garage and its running well, touch wood.
There is something that annoys me that I noticed last night - it seems that the electrics will be "on" after switching off - the wipers, the radio, even the brake lights will come on if you hit the pedal while the engine is off.
I'm kind of thinking it could be one of two things. Firstly, the door seals were shot when I bought it which meant that it was leaking water like a sieve - so could it be the damp in the car is making the electrics play up? Or could it be a dodgy earth connection? Am I right in thinking that the earths are attached to various parts of the engine and may just need a rub down with a wire brush and a little greasing? I'll be giving it a good run at the weekend so that should hopefully dry the cabin out - but the earth connections, I'm not 100% sure what I am looking for. Any hints/pointers would be much appreciated!
Thanks in advance people! Read more
I was wondering whether or not that would get tricky. Do you think that manual choke conversion might be viable? Hopefully cut out all those hassles and also provide that retro motoring feel...
Hello all. I am new to this website and finding it very interesting. I read with particular interest Honest Johns list of good garages and see Wheelbase garage of Hersham on this list.
I have had a few bad experiences there which i would like to share.
1. I took my old car to have an exhaust downpipe fitted( i supplied parts from local VW dealer ). All seemed fine till i drove it away and there was terrible noise coming from the front so i took the car back. i was told that the front engine mounting had failed causing the exhaust to rub the anti roll bar, so i got the job done there, no change still the noise.
I decided to investigate myself and found the problem was the downpipe sealing ring to cat was too big and was designed for a newer cat,this caused the exhaust downpipe to touch the steering rack.
If i had not looked into this myself i could of had a bill for £800 for all new engine mounts!!
2. Also with my old car i had idle problem which was wrongly diagnosed as the idle stablising valve (cost £300) which turned out to be a worn throttle valve switch that was easily diagnosed with a multimeter.
3. A friend of mine took his car there cos he had a leaking gearbox. He was told the gearbox had a crack in it and would have to be removed and stripped down at a price of £800!
It turned out to be a leaking drive flange oil seal.
Most garages seem only interested in money than good service and do not like it when people challenge them. Any comments on this anyone?
[snippette] I removed a couple of bits, just to avoid potential issues. I don\'t think it altered the sense of your note, though. Mark. Read more
I agree with everything you stated above however.... several companied supply parts for german swedish and french cars. so it would be very difficult to sue in light of this fact.
Browse
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Alexander,
It sounds like air in the cooling system. When you refilled it, did you use an extra header tank? Something like a lemonade bottle with the bottom cut off should suffice, as long as you seal the joint between the bottle and the radiator. The level in the bottle should be kept above the highest point of the cooling system, as you bleed it. This way hopefully all the air is pushed out. Its a stupid design on the ZX and 306 with the XUD engine, having the expansion tank incorperated in the rad.
You can check to see if the headgasket has gone without removing it, a simple test is available to check for combustion gases in the coolant. I suggest you try a different garage ;)
Ross