October 2002
I have a new Ieon se TDI. Can anyone tell me how to test the alarm system,(which dose not seem to work) and what does the button at the bottum of the drivers door pillor do. Read more
Dear all,
My 1995 M reg Suzuki Swift 1.0GC faces an MOT test soon (I've owned it since September). Having assessed it, my only concern is to do with the exhaust down-pipe (front section). There appears to be some rather ominous white paste on the front of it. It isn't blowing, so does this therefore mean that it won't fail the MOT on this point, or is that an automatic failure point. I tackled the garage where I bought it from about this back in September, and they assured me that the white stuff would soon "burn off" and that it was a newish downpipe. I had my doubts, but went ahead and bought it because otherwise it is in excellent condition.
Your views on what the MOT tester's standpoint is likely to be would be much appreciated!
Thanks in anticipation
Regards,
Rob E
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The white paste is probably Holt's exhaust assembly paste-used by a lot of garages/fast-fits etc.so they don't have to make a good job of cleaning-up the joint faces.
JUST BEEN LOOKIN AT CAR TAX FOR 2004-5
AT PRESENT I DRIVE A FOCUS 1.4 ZETEC, YOU KNOW THE SORT O THING LIL HATCHBACK TYPE, ADEQUATE FOR MEDIUM COMPANY MILEAGE, MOTORWAYS IF YOU THRASH IT ETC,
IN 2004-5 WHEN I AM SOO LUCKY TO GET A NEW MOTOR, WHAT AM I LOOKING AT FOR THE SAME SORT OF TAX LAYOUT!!!!
1 LITRE CORSA, 1.2 YARIS, Read more
yeh ok, sorry boss, sorted it, wont happen again, honest, john
Drink Lager Talk Piffle
What rights do you have to return a car under an auction warranty. I havn't bought at auction for a quite a while. A few years ago I bought a smart looking car sold by a large main agent as all good with a warranty. On the test drive I found poor acceleration and top speed about 15 mph down, which I imagine the dealer had also noticed. I returned well within the time and asked to reject the car. After a brief look they said nothing wrong only needs a service. It turned out to be a burned out exhaust valve which I had to replace at my own expense.
What should I have done and how insistant should I be in similar circumstances. I am intending buying at auction in the near future but probably ex fleet rather than risk a trade in from a dodgy dealer. Read more
The fact a car has full main agent service history does not mean that everything is kept in A1 condition.
All items refered to in service schedules will have been checked but unless you have all the invoices you do not know if there has been any recommendations for work to be done that have been ignored by the owner (such as your ABS ECU is faulty and requires replacement ). The dealer must stamp the service book as serviced even although there is outstanding recommendations.
The only way to truly satisfy youself is by chatting to the servicing dealer to find out if there has been any work recommended by them that is still outstanding to their knowledge. This of course can be awkward at auction as the car may have come from the servicing agent , so they will be less willing to discuss.
Anybody got a website link for a good description of how the modern car engine actually does its stuff.
Its a shame the Haynes manuals arent online (or are they?)
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Hi
My P reg Rover 216Si has suddenly started overheating (last night and this morning). Although I've now booked it into the garage for tomorrow, I still need to get home (about 6 miles). I'm worried that I might cause irrepairable/expensive damage to the engine. I topped up the oil and coolant last night.
My symptoms are:
Needle started creeping up to max on motorway at around 70mph but no hot air was coming through the heaters. I slowed to about 50 and got off the motorway at the next junction and the needle dropped to about normal.
Opening the bonnet revealed a fizzing noise and a small amount of steam coming from behind the engine. The coolant didnt seem to be hot.
Anyone any ideas? Blockage? Pump failure? Spingledonkit in my Flangesprocket?
Also, if I take it easy and keep the needle at normal level will I be OK to get home?
thanks in advance
Mike C Read more
Sounds like
either failed water pump
or thermoststat partially closed.
Both would account for symptons
Took my A6 2.5Tdi into the garage because it was very rattly at tickover but smooth once driving. When we lifted the bonnet to look the cambelt was smoking! May have just caught things in time but what could have caused this? Had new injectors in the spring at 140,000 miles, glowplugs in July because of poor starting - this didn't improve things until the pump timing was redone in August. Last cambelt change was at 109000 now at 150000. Any bright ideas?
hfo Read more
Thanks, so if the pumps failed and possibly seized that would have caused the teeth to jump and eventually melt? Is there any possibilty that bad pump timing could have played any part ?
hfo
Can anyone help please with a problem which is driving my wife, our local garage and myself wild? My wife's 1996 Rover 111sli keeps dying with an electrical fault - not charging and the battery going completely flat. We've changed the battery, alternator and regulator. It's an intermittent fault, so every time it's in the garage, having been towed back again, it behaves perfectly. Anyone else had this problem please? Read more
Had the same problem with the wife's 1988 metro VP, turned out to be a sticking rear screen demister relay/timer. I noticed it seem to happen (sometimes) after using the rear demister and leaving the switch on. Even though it is supposed to be powered through the ignition (the light on the switch would go off when the ignition was switched off), it remained on. I removed the relay to prevent the wife using it (she never does as she's told), the problem disappeared. Changed the relay about a month after.
Sometimes (of course not when going to the dealer) 1st gear is a little notchy. It happaens half way when depressing the clutch and sometimes feels like the clutch is slipping and sometimes just that there seems to be something wrong with the pedal.
Anyone got any ideas? Read more
Clutch is hydraulic per BMW parts CD. Ditto for 330d.
Help wanted please:
In the Backroom archives there is a post from Keith mentioning that the 1.8 Zetec without hydraulic tappets is not suitable for LPG conversion and a Ford technical bulletin is available to confirm this.
How can I get a copy of this bulletin and how can I tell if I have hydraulic tappets on my '98 1.8 Zetec?
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Derbs,
To test motion sensors
Open any window wide open and tape a piece of newspaper in its place. Set alarm and wait for it to settle/arm itself. Punch through newspaper with fist. This will simulate the window being broken and affect the air pressure inside the car, thus triggering the montion sensors. Alternately you could just stick your arm in through the open window and wave it around like a madman. This technique however doesn't work on my Vectra as the motion sensors aren't that sensitive, which is why I use the newspaper method.
To test Door/boot/bonnet sensors
leave a door slightly ajar, making sure the interior light has gone off. Set alarm, and open door. Repeat for the other doors, boot, and bonnet.