July 2002
Hi all,
A question to those of you in the trade. Has anyone ever changed the large donut rubber bushes for the rear suspension in an Omega saloon.
I think mine need doing and would appreciate some feedback as to how difficult a job this is - not for me to do - but to estimate what a garage would charge. Obviously I'll geta Vauxhall dealer price - but at labour rates over £50 per hour I want to shop around a bit.
In anticipation.
Robert Read more
According to some literature on the internet, one of the differences between the Jap spec JZA80 twin turbo (MK IV) and the UK version is that the former has ceramic turbine rotors and the latter steel, but no explanation of reasons is given.
At a guess steel sounds stronger, and ceramic perhaps better for high temperatures and avoiding corrosion, but I'm curious......?
heers, Tomo Read more
Andy, thanks!
Certainly I do not have much lag; the car is perhaps a little (relatively!) sluggish for a second or so from a dead stand but then it is automatic - that is, no clutch to drop in to jackrabbit, to the detriment of the works!
Cheers, Tomo
Hello. I am again requesting the advice of the experts here, particularily those who know a bit about insurance.
As I have said before, I am going to New Zealand and my car while I am away will be used by my sister. My insurance is due for renewal in a couple of months and wonder what the best way to renew it is. I am 21 and my sister is 20, and I have two years no claims, her none, and between us we have never had a claim or points. Talking to insurance companies them want to have the policy in her name and also the car. I am not so keen on this as when I come back I will resume to be the main driver and so the car will have an extra couple of owners on it. However, as I will be back for the last couple of months of the policy where I wil resume to be the main driver would I be able to keep the policy and thus the car in my name?
Any advice on solving this problem whilst keeping the policy as low as possible would be greatly appreciated. (And if it helps the car is a 2000 Corsa SXi).
Paul C Read more
Just an update here. Vauxhall insurance (underwritten by UK insurance....especially as their quote was
good too.
Good stuff, any change of posting the contact details?
I AM THINKING OF BUYING THIS CAR IN ABOUT TWO MONTHS TIME ANY REPORT WOULD HELP I AM LOOKING FOR GOOD MPG AND COMFORT AND NOT TO WORRIED ABOUT PERFORMANCE & SPEED THIS IS NOT MY MAIN CONCERN. Read more
Motel,
click on this link for a previous discussion of these cars...
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&t=46...8
Also try search above, there have been several readers reporting issues with these cars (and to be fair, some saying they like them).
Not been across to France since 2000.
The ferry brochures show much evelvated prices on Y2K.
Want to do South West England to say ST Malo or similar in N W France, returning 3 weeks later via Dover crossing with car and caravan, 2 adults, 3 children {5, 3 and 1}
Anyone know the cheapest ferries?
Can go mid week.
National Breakdown AKA Green Flag - do they still do cheap ferry tickets, or caravan club etc?
Any special deals in newspapers?
Thanks for any help
Paul
Read more
Someone on my other forum has posted a link where you can price the new route. www.aferry.to
I priced a trip for Le Mans week, car + 2, out 11 June back 18 June. £192.
I've got a 93(L) escort 73,000 on the clock.I've only had the car since february.
Slowly but surely, upon start up, i'm getting copious amounts of blue smoke, lasting for about thirty seconds, then it's ok.I've had to top it up with about five litres of oil over the past five weeks.
I took it to a local garage this morning expecting him to tell me that the valve stem seals had gone.
he didn't tell me that, he said that a piston ring was the problem.With hindsight i would not have bought anything with an H.C.S. engine in it, as i now believe this is the worst engine Ford have ever used.
So i asked him would it be possible to replace this engine with a 1.3 CVH , he said i could do it but when the m.o.t came around it would be tested as an (L) plate and therefore would fail on it's emissions.
So it would seem to him that my only option would be to replace the engine with another H.C.S. lump.
My thinking is that it's not the piston ring/s that have worn but the stem seals.
If anyone could enlighten me more i would much appreciate it.
thanks. Read more
thanks everyone for your replys , you've been most helpfull.
cheers
In the continuing quest to get to the bottom of my 200Vi's poor running, I have invested in a Vacuum Gauge.
History of problem;
Misfire at idle/down on power/jerking on part throttle.
Session on Rover Testbook diagnostic system revealed no faults.
Compression test revealed no serious problems (all within 10% of each other)
Recent service and replacement of HT Leads & Plugs.
Having connected the Vacuum gauge to the Plenum chamber I got the following results;
At idle - steady reading of 16, 2500rpm - steady reading of 22, blipping the throttle caused a swing from 0 to 22 and then back to 16.
The only test that caused concern was when I revved the engine hard and sharply closed the throttle... according to my documentation, the reading should return swiftly to that at idle but instead it hovered at around 22 for a second or two before returning to normal. I understand that this could be a sign of excess backpressure in the exhaust system (i.e. a blockage). Would you agree with this conclusion?
P.S. apologies for the long-winded post but I thought the extra detail might be usefull.
Read more
I've been off work with the flu and have not felt up to getting my head under the bonnet.
The problem seemed to occur around the time I had the cam belts changed and I am not absolutely sure it was done correctly (see forums.mg-rover.org/viewtopic.php?TopicID=2092 for more info).
I’ll have a go at checking the MAP sensor and Oxygen sensor A.S.A.P. but am waiting for a response to my post on the MG rover forum before I take the car to the dealership.
Cheers guys for the all the suggestions, hope I'm able to contribute to the forum in the future. Will keep you informed of my progress
Can anyone please tell me how often should this be changed? I read the handbook as saying 40K miles whilst my Ford dealer who has just done the service tells me its 100k miles or 10 years on all Focus's.
Thanks Read more
Car co's that give 3 year product warranties do so because on average their cars are more reliable ie have less claims. Most Jap cars come with 3 year warranties for the last 10 years. Toyota on the Carina E had a particular part which was failing so they extended the warranty on that part to 5 years.
Recently Hyundai and Fiat have begun selling vehicles with 5 year warranties, know that is confidence. Fiat I beleive is doing so because they have a genuine problem in as much that thier cars are perceived as having a relaibility problem hence the decision to increase the waranty period. Hyundai know just increasing competition.
I would not be surprised that had the majority of car manufactureres followed the lead of the Japanese some 10 years ago they would be all gone bust by know. Incidently why are car warrnaties so generous in the USA? For example VW give 10 year power train warranties.
Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
Has anyone experience of the above product recently advertised in a reputable 4 x 4 magazine? which gave it a good review.
Apparentley you spray into the engine via the turbo boost and it allegedly gets rid of any carbon build up which occurs after 10,000 miles thereby increasing efficiency and mpg.
At £25 a 450ml can seems a bit expensive.
See www.10kboost.com.
DVD.
Read more
PS. of course the engine in question must need cleaning out in the first place, otherwise even the best cleaner will make no difference.
Wonder if anyone can help?
When decelerating, squeaking similar to a wheel bearing can be heard from somewhere around the engine. If stopped with engine running no sound is heard. However, if the handbrake is applied and any gear is selected and the engine loaded, the squeaking can be initiated. We know it's not the clutch thrust bearing as this can be operated with the car out of gear and no squeak/rattle is heard. Any advice gratefully recieved. Read more
The colleague who asked me to post this question has come back with the verdict: David's diagnosis was spot-on. Thank you both for your input.
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Robert (hope this reaches you..)
Have just found the site and found your posting from July on freezing doors. And you think you had problems. The following is absolutely true.
I live in the Highlands of Scotland and returned from a weekend in London to my Car, parked in Kingussie Railway station car park at about 20:00 one night. The car was covered (I mean covered) in ice some 2-3 mm thick. Presumably it had been raining then the temperature dropped. My Omega is an old ex-Police MV6, "P" reg, Dec 1996, 202,500 miles, just run in. It has no "remote" (blip) locking. The drivers door lock was frozen (I could only get the key in about 1/4 inch).
Can't get at the de-icer (in locked and frozen up boot), no electric hairdryer or fan heater for several hundred yards, no lighting. There is only one option, risky at that. Pee on the lock. It helps if you are male...(I am).
You must be carefull as
a) If it fails the AA have to de-ice a lock full of frozen pee (uggghhhh..)
b) You must be careful not to touch bare metal/ice with "exposed flesh" (Think about it)
- but I took a deep breath, waited for everyone else in the car park to leave (I did not want the conversation..) then peed on the lock with the key pressed gently too it. Bingo! In she goes, lock opens!
But the drivers door don't open - the door (presumably rubber seals) is frozen solid. The only door that would open was the rear passenger door, boot also frozen solid.
So, in I climb, clamber into front, heave in luggage, start engine.
Now the windsreen is also frozen. I scraped as much as I could and off I set.
It took 20 miles down moonlit frozen (snow, ice) roads before the windscreen unfroze. It took 40 miles before the side windows de-froze & I could open a window.
Yours aye....
WD40 into the lock 3 days in a row seems to have cured it.. I'll find out next winter....