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1997 1.4 - Heater Resistor location - ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
Hi. I have a R reg, 1.4 Nissan Almera. When I turn the heater/blower on it goes... 1,2,3 nothing, 4, full blast. I have been told that this is the heater resistor. I called nissan and got a quote for £37.51.
I think I would rather go to the scrappy and get one (and take a chance it works).

Can anyone tell me where the heater resistor is on these cars and what am I looking for (what does it look like)?

Thanks for any help.



Edited by Dynamic Dave on 22/11/2008 at 20:28

Almera Heater Resistor - GregSwain
Take the glovebox off, then you'll see the blower motor. The resistor pack is underneath and behind the motor according to Haynes, where the wiring from the switch enters the motor. Looks like a straight-forward job.
1.4 - Heater Resistor location - Steve1950
I have just repaired the fan restistor on my Almera 1.4 Si "P" reg. Had a problem to find it at first, its actual located on the bottom of the heater box, behind the glove box, to the right of the fan motor housing, you will see the wiring loom going to 2 plugs, one plug goes to the fan motor, and the other plug goes to the resistor pack, the resistor actual goes inside the heat box, so the only thing you can see is the end plate where the loom plugs on, you will see 2 cross head screws holding the unit in place, once the unit is removed, after cleaning the dirt off it, you will see a blob of solder on the circuits near the top, check that you have continuity cross this soldered blob, by putting a multimeter on the circuit either side of the solder, you will have to clean the printed circuit to make sure you have good contact, if you do not have continuity across this solder then this is proberly the problem, with a soldering iron, make a new bridge of solder to get back the continuity across this point, and this should fix the problem.

1.4 - Heater Resistor location - LeonAbelmann

Thank you! In my case, the bridge was too far gone to repair with a blob of solder. Instead I soldered a wire across the gap. Worked as well. I guess the resistance matters, but a few threads from a regular flexible 220 V wire apparently did the job.

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