Vauxhall Zafira - Immobiliser Problems - ZAFFY123

Can anyone help me? Not had my Zafira long but when I bought it I was told that the 'spanner' light had come on some 6 weeks previous but not been on since. I've had the car now since May and it has only come on once during a long journey when I hit traffic but I continued driving and it went off. Had a problem on Sunday with my key in that I couldn't get the steering lock off or start the car. After a lot of wiggling and jiggling the AA man got me started and sent me on my way with instructions that I needed to replace my ingition barrel. Part came yesterday searched the forums and learnt how to remove and replace etc and was really chuffed that I had managed to do myself at very little cost. However.........I now seem to have introduced an intermittent problem in that the immoboliser is cutting in a not letting the car start. (I understand that the original key must be close to the barrel etc as the chip is still in the key etc.) It started yesterday and let me drive home, but when I went to go back out 20 minutes later, no joy. Been out this morning, started no problem, but I am now very wary! I have read through lots of solutions online and have checked the fuses, not sure if it has any relevance but when the car is running one of the big green relay fuses in the internal fuse box is getting very hot! Any ideas?????

Vauxhall Zafira - Immobiliser Problems - daveyK_UK
Im not sure if the Zafira also suffered the same dreaded CIM module fault of the vectra and astra.
Could this have something to do with it?
The CIM seems to effect everything when they start to go.

Is there any vauxhall techs on the zafira owners forum you can ask?
Vauxhall Zafira - Immobiliser Problems - Simon
The key with the chip in it needs to be basically where your ignition key is for the CIM to pick up the coding of the chip. So hold your old key very close to the ignition as you turn it.
Vauxhall Zafira - Immobiliser Problems - TeeCee

After a lot of wiggling and jiggling the AA man got me started and sent me on my way with instructions that I needed to replace my ingition barrel.

When that happened to mine, I removed the barrel, thoroughly washed out all the old grease which was contaminated with aluminum dust from wear, regreased and reassembled. Sorted.

It's the ally particles that cause the trouble. The contaminated grease acts as a clutch when warm, causing the key and/or barrel to stick.

The sensor for the immobilser is that black box above the barrel that you saw when you dismantled it. It needs to be able to talk to the chip. When that's in it's correct place stuck into the blade and retained by the fob, it's right next to the sensor when the key's in the ignition. Can't you just put your existing chip into the new key blade?

The spanner light will be for some other problem. That wouldn't light for a sticking barrel. You probably should get the fault codes read to find out what else is up.


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