December 2020
Can anyone advise me, I need to buy a bigger car either SUV or MPV can anyone suggest the best most reliable and economical make and model please and also which ones to avoid that are known for problems any suggestions would be amazing I just don’t no where to start Thanks Read more
"Quote from an advert"
As an incentive to purchase on-line and to give you added protection and confidence, we are including 36 months comprehensive warranty and 12 months breakdown cover free of charge for all purchases (with exception of TVR, Bentley and Aston Martin) made during lockdown.... Read more
How good the deal is depends on the car, age, price and mileage. But as a promotional attraction it could work.
I am sure they will have been able to negotiate large discounts compared to individual members of the public for very basic breakdown cover....
My car came with 235/45 r17 summer tyres and the wheels are 7inches in diameter.
I bought another set of 6.5 inch rims to fit winter tyres to, also 233/45/17 . I have used the winter tyres for two seasons .
However one of the tyres suffered tears internally and another developed a mushroom on the outer wall so i have had to replace two of the four winter tyres after about 8000 miles .
These were expensive Continental tyres and i was led to believe that the half inch difference in the rim diameter would not be a problem but given the damage , i am now not so sure
. It ‘s a comfortable ride at the recommendation 32 psi But should i inflate the tyres a bit more to prevent damage
Thank you in advance
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For a 6.5 inch wide rim, the minimum tyre width is 185 mm, the recommended tyre width is 195 to 205 and the maximum width is 215mm.
For your 7 inch standard rims the maximum fitted tyre width should be 225 mm....
Seems to be pretty dire on the US market, according to this video rant (goes on a bit, but you'll get the idea fairly quickly)
Back in the late 90s I fitted some Halfords branded brake pads ( Ferodo where out of stock ) The Halfords pads lasted 2 weeks before they where metal to metal.
Replaced with a set of Ferodo & they where still on the car 18 months later when I traded it in....
Here's a moderately amusing and interesting video series from a US vlogger who bought himself a 'salvage' (i.e. Cat D write-off) Maybach 57 with the intention of seeing if he could fix it up for less than the cost of a non-written-off used model.
When new, the car was $350,000; he paid $20,000 for it. The cheapest used one he could find that had a title (i.e. was roadworthy and not written off) was $40K. ... Read more
Rather like a near neighbour of mine who doesn't have a particularly well-paid job,
Does not sound like his job is too low paying if he can afford to run all those and be paying £2k of fines....
I have been using Auto Aid for the last 3 years, never needed to use them, yet.
How do other users find them in the event of needing assistance?... Read more
I was with start for a few years till I got my free EU cover for 2 years with the new Kia.
The one time I needed Start rescue they were Brilliant.. Dropped the broken down Kia at the dealers and then drove me home....
Hi
... Read more
just to repeat, I honestly did not realise they were fog lights, I though they were daylight runners as the police called them
hey ho, part should be with me by the 4th Jan...
I keep my cars until they are beyond economical repair (4 cars since 1987). Now I need another and have a choice of two: both are identical model/colour Auris 1.6 CVT, FSH, one owner:
A: 2012, 40K, £6700. B: 2015, 60K, £8000.... Read more
Must admit I consider a 10 year old car with 90k relatively new compared to most stuff I've driven round Europe in! :)
Hey there,
I'm having some problems with my van and hoping someone here can help me out.
I was going towards a national speed limit road and started accelerating to get up to 60mph when at around 45-50mph my acceleration just felt like it gave way. All of a sudden I couldn't get above 20-25mph and had to pull over. I managed to crawl it to my local mechanic where he scanned it and a Turbo Pressure Sensor error came up. He replaced this (£££) and said it should be all good. I took it out again and everything felt normal, a little more powerful if nothing else, but again I went to get up to 60mph and it went again. He replaced the solenoid without charging me anything for the work and we thought problem solved. Yet, once again, the same problem kept happening! The strangest part is that when it happens, if i turn the ignition off and then back on again I can drive it normally (until around 50mph of course). Equally, there's no check engine light, no smoke from ignition and bar the acceleration problem everything else seems perfectly normal, although I have noticed my coolant and engine oil levels are low (have been told this wouldn't be the problem though?). I see some threads about cleaning the MAF and EGR or even putting some diesel engine cleaner in but I am not too experienced at mechanics (pouring the diesel engine cleaner in isn't what I am referring to here of course), at this point I will happily try and do this myself but I was hoping to get some advice before I go ahead and fiddle around with things. If anyone has any idea's I would be very grateful, I fully trust the mechanic was doing what we thought would fix it but it feels as though I have thrown money at the problem and the problem is still there (I know, rookie). Feel free to ask any further questions if needs be. Read more
If the code reader didn't give a code that resulted in a fix I might suspect egr valve s these aren't always funny electrical on this age of car (more mechanical) but if sufficiently blocked can cause problems.
Hello I'm about to take out a PCP deal which I know I can afford but just wanted to see what others thought about PCP? My experience with buying older cars for cheap isn't great as maintenance becomes expensive so I've decided to purchase a Suzuki Swift boosterjet engine which is two years old on this deal. Has anyone used pcp and what was your experience with it? Read more
I’ve posted here before about the deal we did on my wife’s Audi in 2017. I’ve always bought outright, but in this case the salesman said we could save money by going down the PCP route and paying off the whole cost within 14 days. The numbers were: list price £33,705, cash price £30,500, PCP price £28,909 with a deposit of £4,800 to drive it away on handover day. There were manufacturer and dealer deposit contributions which made the PCP option the winner.
So, come handover day, a bit of form filling, payment of £4,800, wife drives off delighted with her new car. Next day, a phone call to Audi Finance, a settlement figure obtained, bank transfer executed and a day or two later a letter from Audi Finance confirming that they have no further interest in the car....
Browse
The trouble comes after doing some proper research and then having to sift through the results to try and avoid buying a potential dud.
With VW and the rest of the VAG stablemates, for your budget and age of car that will get you into, what you want to avoid is the DSG gearbox (which is why I asked earlier if you were after an auto or manual) and the Diesel engines, specifically the 1.6. This is the unit at the centre of the diesel gate scandal, apart from this, it is also not that reliable. ...