August 2007
I have been told I have a noisy crankshaft damper and that it should be repaired. Can anyone tell me what this is and what is entailed in repairing it. Read more
M25 a couple of weeks ago. I am towing the caravan in lane 1 clockwise near junction 14. Traffic is grinding to a halt behind a stationary car ahead in lane 2 connected by a slack tow-rope to an AA van in lane 1. Lots of fraught last-minute lane changing going on and some cars using the hard shoulder to undertake the obstruction. I have left it way too late to change lanes and pass so am planning to wait. As I approach, the driver of the dead car is just getting in the driving seat and the AA chap has stopped a car undertaking him on the hard shoulder. Some finger-wagging and shouting is going on; then the undertaking car rockets away on the shoulder in a spray of dirt. AA man points at me, holds his hand up in a "halt" gesture, then indicates 2 minutes with his fingers. I switch on the hazards and I have enough room to ease the outfit over so it's blocking most of the hard shoulder and most of lane 1. The AA man tows the dead car from lane 2 onto the hard shoulder and gives me a cheery wave. I have helped a little bit. Caravans are some use after all! Never want to be an AA man, though.
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land Read more
installer, the point I was making was that in traffic moving at less than 20mph he was in a perfectly safe place. The only hazard was being caused by the AA man speeding down the hard shoulder (I would estimate over 50 mph).
My car recently developed the feel through the steering at low speed as if one of the wheels was buckled, the steering wheel would move side to side. As one of the front tyres was also showing considerable wear on the inside edge I decided to get the tracking checked and have two new tyres fitted to the front, even though one of them had plenty of tread left (I prefer to change tyres in pairs).
When the fitter removed the 'good' tyre I was horrified to see that it had a serious 'bleb' on the inside wall, so bad that it looked like a sausage stuck to the tyre going almost all the way round the circumference. (Not that it necessarily means anything but it was a well-known branded tyre)
I know that it is recomended that tyre condition is checked regularly but it's easy not to bother checking the inside wall. I will certainly be making a point of checking them more regularly from now on. Read more
I posted on here a few months back about a suitable welder for me to buy but my needs have changed.
I have a 1979 MGB so will need a good welder!
I have the option of welding inside or outside so am looking for a suitable MIG welder.
Machine Mart have always served me well in the past and I quite fancy one of their gasless MIGS. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Stuart Read more
Hi Bellboy.
All good advice, thanks. The 4 o'clock rule also applies to me in my work as a bathroom installer with regards to blowtorch work. I bought the MG to restore and whilst I consider it a good 2 previous owner example I am not going to shy away from doing whats needed. I certainly wouldn't consider a re-shell.
All of the interior will be removed prior to any welding and the appropriate precautions taken regarding fuel and brake lines.
my father owns a 04 city rover, 19k miles ( dont start on me...i told him no)
ive been using it to run my mother around while dads ill, i find it impossible to pull away without kangerooing with a cold engine...its slightly better when hot but still a bind to drive
is there any common faults that cause this?
another thing...the power delivery is notchy /uneven , is that a characteristic on these ? maybe i expect too much comparing it to our 19yr old polo lol Read more
they need servicing? :-oooooooooooooo ;-)
I have a Ghia with the 1.6 Zetec S Engine. After sorting out the initial overheating problem it had when I first bought it (thanks in no small part to the members of this site), it has been a great little car with no problems. Today, i drove it to work and back and it was fine as usual.
About half hour ago, I decided to pop out in it and for the first 10 minutes of the journey the car was as normal. I was doing 60-70 down a country lane and all seemed fine. Then i had to slow down and when I started to speed up again i felt the car judder slightly and seemingly lose power. I carried on for a maybe 1/4 of a mile but it seemed to be getting worse. Finally, the engine fault light started flashing so i pulled up in the village I was conveniently driving through at the time.
The car didn't overheat and there were no other warning lights. I looked in the ford manual and it said that if the engine fault light flashed whilst driving i should slow down immediately and get a ford dealer to look at it. Fair enough, thats probably what i will do. I left the car there, and got a taxi home.
I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on what may have caused this before I get the car looked at tomorrow. Any advice/wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Matt.
{No need to include car make / model within the subject header anymore as the choices you make from the drop down menu will do that for you. Header amended to remove info - DD} Read more
Lol that would be nice, but hes in London until tomorrow so unfortunately not. I don't have cover myself - figured I could always use his but yeah like i said hes not here today. Should be fine anyways. Quite a posh little estate i parked up in. If not, you know what they say... pink fluffy dice happens.
YEAR / ENGINE SIZE / PROBLEM
How hard is this really ? That's all we need in the subject line in that order, makes it simple to find and at a glance and simple to trace two years down the line......GET A GRIP !!!!! Read more
You have NO EXCUSES. There is now even a prompt under the header asking that you include this information in the subject header.
It has got to the stage where we may consider deleting rather than editing if you fail to include the year, engine size and problem in the subject header. We will of course be lenient towards newcomers (initially); but regular and long term members of this forum really ought to know what is required by now.
Deletion is far easier than editing a post. Don't say you haven't been warned!
DD.
Having just read the thread on the Buying of a Honda Civic, and the comment about no spare wheel, along with the other threads about the same problems with different manufacturers, how long do you think it will be before we have 24hr roadside tyre fitting services (with emergency call outs) just like truck and buses do?
A few times I have had a flat in a truck and had mobile fitters there within an hour and was on my way within 2 hours, I personally can see this happening with cars within a year to 18 months nationwide. We already have a fair few mobile fitters so would not take much for them to offer this service. Only down side I can see is that your choice of "Emergency" tyre may well be very limited!!! Read more
If you phone one of these firms,most will bring and fit a car tyre for you.
A friend of mine has a Ka, it a W reg and the sills are all rusted through, the engine bay bars are also so badly rusted. I have also seen a 07 reg Ka today and had quick look at the sill and it was already flaking!
Yet my 97 R reg Fiesta dosn't have a single spec of rust on it. What is it about the Ka's that makes them such a rust bucket?
{If you select make / model from the drop down lists, there is no need to include those details in the subject header, otherwise they'll get repeated. Heading edited to remove repeated words - DD} Read more
>>No word of a lie, I was in a slow moving traffic jam the other day and the 07 metallic silver Corsa next to me had three rust spots on the sills (each about a foot apart).
If that were mine,it would be returned to VX before dust had time to settle on the tyres(you sure it was rust)
Seen a lot of broken down Corsas lately,in fact more Vauxhalls than usuall in last few months(overtaken Ford in that respect)
hi guys, new to the forum so lets start, i have a 52 1.8 duratec mondeo its done 50,000 miles, at low revs say 35 mph in 3rd put your foot down and nothing until it gets around 3,200 rpm then it takes off like a rocket !! my old mondeo 1.8 zetec ( 98 ) would leave this new one standing.. any thoughts on this problem ? tried resetting the ecu by removing the pos batt lead but still the same.. fed up with it now, shame because its a top drivers car.. any thoughts ? cheers, BK ( BATH UK )
Edited to include engine variant. - PU Read more
just to add been filling up with shell super actane petrol and must say it has improved the performance quite alot but the car still runs better when cold than hot, its not responsive when hot ? any ideas ? cheers,
BK
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I had crankshaft damper replaced on my 2000 CRV less than 2 months ago, along with various belts, hoses, and radiator, at the cost of nearly $1600 at local mechanic shop that I had been recommended to and trusted. The engine light had come on. I agreed to all recommended repairs. Up until then, I had every scheduled maintenance and agreed to all services recommended by Honda, done at Honda, save one oil change and a brake job. The other day, the car stalled and I had it towed to the same mechanic. He called and told me the engine seized, crankshaft isn't even turning, and can't tell me why until they take it apart and check. I asked didn't they just replace the crankshaft, he said, "No, the damper. The problem with the crankshaft would be internal. The damper is on the outside."
Should I have this investigated further? I'm afraid to have them replace the engine ($2500) if they are not good mechanics to begin with. I'm surprised that the engine would seize after I had maintained it so well and it only has about 130K miles on it. Should I go to B.A.R.? I don't feel knowledgeable enough to challenge this situation but I also don't want to be taken advantage of and dump more money into the car nor lose it completely. In addition to the new parts aforementioned, it also has new front rotors and tires, so I've put over $2000 into it less then 2 months ago. Basically, I want to know if this mechanic could be responsible for the engine seizing and what I could do to prove it?
Thank you for any response.
Kimisit