April 2007
Changed the brake pads on the wife's 02 Fiesta a couple of days ago. While doing so, I noticed that both the driveshaft gaiters (correct name?) were worn and one was split. I'm aware for mechanical longevity they will need to be replaced. However, the car is due an MOT in a few weeks. Will it fail on these. I'd like to get the hassle of the mot out of the way before I sort the car. Read more
Originally in 1998 this was a VW500.00 spec oil requirement but with the more recent 501 and 502 etc etc. What is the most suitable for this engine The car is an R plate 98 SE saloon with 42K on the clock. Regards Peter Read more
Peter
There's probably not a lot to choose between the big brands of flush. Personally; I use a Wurth one, but they're probably hard to find.
HannahnTilly
It's not such an epidemic as the US over here, as our oils are generally much better than the low-tech muck that the Americans put in their cars. The European history of smaller, higher-stressed, engines has lead to a greater awareness of the importance of good oil - and has shown up most of the rubbish ones.....
The Americans are suckers for TV advertisers' hype and if told that XXX is a top-quality oil, they believe them and rush out and buy it - when in truth, it's only fit for a 60's V8 "fower dower fowered." Fortunately; only a few fall for the same hype over here. and pay for TV ads and not oil quality.
Sludge still does happen over here; [and not just these engines - talk to a Saab dealer!] My accountant is still smarting from a £3700 engine bill for his '99 A6 1.8T. Change regularly with the correct spec oil, like Peter, and you'll never have a problem.
Well after looking at various vehicles it looks like my father has made a choice on what car to go for as a replacement for his X-type now that due to MS he can no longer drive it.
And the winning car is........................A Citroen C4 Picasso Grand 2.0d. he is getting it on
Motability and is costing him less for 3 years then the insurance alone does on the X-type.
Now about the car, went with him this week to test drive it for him, and I have to say I was quite impressed.
The dealer let us have a go in the top of the range model (the same as my father will be ordering) but this one also had all the options like satnav fitted.
I find the exterior to be quite good looking, but then I think Citroen put a lot of style into their cars ? getting in and out is like most MPV?s being higher it is easier for those with reduced mobility.
Once inside the first thing that struck me was how light and airy the interior was, this was even though the seat fabric was a dark grey/black. Once sat down the reason for the lightness becomes very evident, it is due to the windscreen curving over the top of the car and over your head, this can be partially hidden by sliding the sun visors forward. They can then be swung down in the normal fashion to block the sun. I can?t see that this windscreen gives you any greater visibility, but it does make the car feel much bigger and roomier inside.
Sat in the drivers seat the next thing that strikes you is the steering wheel, this is a multifunction job, with cruise control settings and phone/interior light controls on the left and multifunction display settings on the right. It takes a few minutes to work out what does what, but is not overly complicated to use. Just above the wheel is a mini display unit for indicators and lights. The main instrument binnacle is positioned in the middle, within this the speed is displayed to the left in the centre is the satnav/multifunction display and to the right is the rev counter and gear selection indicator. I would like to have had the rev and speedo round the other way, but I assume this is set for LHD cars. The displays are very clear and easy to read when on the move, but we did notice the Satnav was about 300mtrs out of sync, which could make a difference around town. Behind the wheel is a set of padels, these are to change gear when in semi auto mode.
On the move. Pulling away was easy enough, move the small lever on top of the steering column to ?A? and press the accelerator pedal, the electronic parking brake automatically releases and away you go. The steering feels very light with little feedback, but for this type of car I would expect this, building up speed the car started to move up through the gears, not the smoothest of changes, even my 10 yr old Accord manages smoother gear changes, but then I suppose it is not a conventional auto box. In fact the gear box reminded me somewhat of the semi auto box that Iveco fit to trucks, it has very much the same feel to the gear change, a slight nudge as it goes up through the gears, right the way until it hits 6th gear. But it is more noticeable when slowing down as you get a nudge in the back as it drops down through each gear as you slow down, not too much of a problem but many may find it annoying if not used to it. Whilst on the subject of slowing down, the brakes are typical Citroen, i.e. very good, with little pressure needed to enable you to come to a very abrupt halt!!!!
The gears can be used in fully auto mode or in manual mode, where you can use the padels to change up and down ? but you can over ride the fully auto mode at any time by pressing one of the padels, so personally I cant see the need for the ?M? setting, but each to their own.
The 2.0d engine we test drove was very responsive, and pulled well, but being fitted to a 6 speed box meant it did do a fair amount of gear changes ? I think I would prefer a 5 speed.
The route I took had A roads, B roads, dual carriageway and a Motorway in it. The C4 coped well on all roads with wind noise only really noticeable on the motorway over 75mph. The cruise control was easy to use, as was the speed limiter, which is handy for 30 zones and roadwork reduced speed areas.
All in all the C4 was a very nice comfortable drive, with some very nice design features built into what I think is a very good looking car ? would I have one? Well I hope in 3 years time we will be able to buy my fathers one off of Motability to replace what will then be our aging Honda Shuttle.
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Hi all.
Havent posted here for a while. This is something ive posted on another forum, just wondering if any of you could help out. Thanks!
This summer im going to have a month or so free and i've been thinking of things to do. One of which is working for a car dealership. Hopefully I can make a bit of cash - useful for my year off, get some work experience down for the CV and combine it with my love of motors. I'll be 18, have a full license held for over a year and some a levels (although no results yet).
Is this a stupid idea and am I better off trying my luck with an independant dealer?
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>>I'd recommend going in person to the garages though
Wise words IMO.
Number_Cruncher
is it an allen bolt that holds the caliper together under those plastic caps if so what size are they thanks? fiesta mk3 (need to change pads) Read more
managed to get the brakes done finally, thanks for the help offered
HI - has anyone had any experience of using nationwide autocentres for a cambelt change? During a recent service I had what seemed a quite reasonable quote of £190 -vat (their flat 'book price') for a change on my 98 vw passat tdi. This included the cambelt tensioner, but not the water pump.
Just wondering whether to get them to do it - as opposed the main dealer, and whether the water pump should be changed also, as I've read that failure of this part can cause cambelt failure?
Cheers
Tim Read more
I had the cambelt on my Seat Cordoba TDi changed by a branch of Nationwide Autos a couple of years ago as the price was reasonable. They confirmed that the tensioner would be changed at the same time. The car is still going strong, and the cost was as quoted. Expect to pay a bit extra for the multi-V belt (which drives the alternator, a/c compressor, etc) since it is a good idea for it to be changed at the same time; iirc the cost for the belt was around 30 pounds.
...to crack a nut....:-)
tinyurl.com/2vpgmk
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by Read more
As I said DD - about that Myvi
Make mine a raspberry.
I have a Mazda3 2006 face-lifted model bought October 2006.
The glovebox has an annoying rattle. It is definitely the gloxbox lid/cover that's rattling because if it's opened, it stops!
Anybody else had the same problem? What do you do to stop it rattling, apart from leaving it open!
Empty/full the thing still rattles. I guess there's a lose latch or something but I cannot see of way of getting inside and investigating the latch mechanism.
Any comments greatly received :-) Read more
I've got a 54 Mazda 3 and the glovebox started rattling after 6 months. I put some tape and padding around the catch/lock area (both sides) but found this only partially cured it. Further, slightly obsessive (words of my wife) investigations tracked it to the area underneath the glovebox - to the area where the centre cosole joins with the transmission tunnel. Theres a join that loops in to the footwell. I put tape and vibration pads around this area along the join, and it stopped.
Phill
Wanted: info on how to remove gear knob, have tried the turning and pulling thing it just goes round half turn then stops, is there a knack to it or am I doing it wrong
Also if anyone has a genuine cd player for my model that will pair up with the lever controls going cheap email me must be in very good condition ect ect......
Thanks in advance
Mick
Nospammers@fsmail.net
{Shouting amended - DD}
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I have a 2001 Astra 2.2 SRI and have a problem with the air con.Last time i used it it was working fine ,that was a few months ago now.I switched it on today as it is very warm weather at the moment but for some reason it was not getting cold.Usually when i switch it on you can hear a pump start up and the revs on the car drop slightly and every couple of minutes the air con fan goes on for a bit and then off again,but for some reason now the yellow light on the switch lights up as it should but you don't hear any pump start up and the revs don't drop and the air con fan doesn't come on at all.
The car has had a new air con radiator and it was recharged or whatever they do to it last October as someone reversed their tow bar through the rad.
Has anyone got any ideas what it might be before i take it in and get told it will cost me loads to put right like they always tell you,it is booked in next week for a air con check at the garage that repaired it after the damaged air con rad.
Cheers
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It has been mentioned in the BackRoom (by HJ Himself?) that a/c needs to be selected 12 months a year to keep the compressor turning, but not doing any cooling. This keeps the compressor seals in good condition and the system is better run all the time (off load in the winter) than woken up after a long winter and failing on the first hot day of the year, or a fault becoming apparent at that time. Standing by for correction on this!


>>What's the likely damage...
About half to 3/4 of an hour for each side - the rubber boots themselves aren't hugely expensive.
Number_Cruncher