April 2007
Anyone know who sells mitsubishi service parts cheap or cheaper than main dealers? when i had my pug 405 i used euro car parts, is there any one for jap cars?
Duggie Read more
Has anyone any information regarding petrol additives, to be specific, are they any good, worth using etc. I was wondering whether to put some into the tank of my c class Merc, would it benefit the engine ? Would I notice any difference? The only advice I have received so far, from the garage that services my car is "if they were any good don't you think Mercedes would recommend them ?" This is borne out by my hand book that states that Mercedes do not recommend using any additives in the engine oil but no mention of any being used in the petrol. Any advice would be most appreciated. Read more
Millers Diesel Plus costs 2.5p per litre, to treat fuel. SFAIK this is cheaper than the price difference between Ordinary and Ultimate Diesel.
Perhaps you may be able to help me where my local Ford dealer have been a little shy. I recently bought a 1998 2.5 duratech mondeo auto from an auction site, every thing seemed ok although I was told it needed a service and wheels needed tracking. On the way home i noticed some vibration after I had been driving for about 30 mins, but put this down to the tracking needing to be aligned. Then the O/D light came on and started flashing and the vibration seemed to die down. Since I was driving on the motorway no other symptoms were noticed, it was not until I got nearly home and came off the motorway, stopped then pulled away that I noticed when the car changed from first to second it felt like I was breaking the G-force as it was a large and loud clonk with a jolt. I did ask the previous owners about this but they denied all knowledge of it (Surprise , Surprise), also since I was planning getting the car serviced did not worry. Next morning clonk still there but then disappeared after 5 mins. Managed to book the car in for service in 2 weeks time. by the time I got the car to be serviced (a full 120k service) the overdrive flashing business happened about 4 more times.
The local ford dealer/garage were unable to ascertain the cause of the fault, because it and gone out when they had the car. I did ask then to check gearbox , which they stated that there was enough oil in the gearbox.
It is still happening, I have managed to ascertain that the vibration occurs after the engine has warmed up and happens around 40mph, also when the light flashes the vibration stops.
Has anyone got any ideas, apart from the light flashing no other problems.
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When the OD light started flashing on my '95 V6 Mondeo, Ford fitted a new gearbox under warranty.
has anyone fitted an inner track rod end joint to a 306 (2001 hdi) ?
I was told last year that there was some play in the steering rack and as its mot time i came to check the car over, however im not sure how involved the mechanics investigations were.
I can feel play in the wheel at 3 o clock to 9 o clock and when the wheel is rocked i can feel play in the ball joint inside the gaiter. Both the bottom ball joint and outer joint were replaced last year. Is it possible for the home diy mechanic to renew this joint or is the steering rack more involved?
any info would be appreciated as i want to give myself a fighting chance in getting it through
thanks Read more
thanks chris i sent you an e mail really appreciate that
Hi
Remote locking just ceased, but key still works. It is the large keyfob with the key that swings into the side and is released by a button, like all the VW group. Hopefully the procedure should be the same for all.
Hopefully it is either (1) a flat keyfob battery or (2) the keyfob being operated out of sight of the car. I have tested for (2) by locking the car, pressing the "undo" button on the fob, and then opening the door. No change. I hope I have the correct sequence.
I need to check (1). No effect on the TV when I try the remote in front of it. I need to take the battery out, but how?
Thanks in advance for your help
CD
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Thanks guys. Whilst girding loins I got another response on the Briskoda octavia forum, pointing me to www.fabia-vrs.com/key-code.htm
The diagram made it simpler.
Spare fob battery down to .4V, used one was 2.9V. Gave up and put them together, and the used one worked!!
Cars, doncha love them. Will get a pair of new batteries in the week
Everybody knows the guys from Korea took that 2-litre 141 PS turbodiesel straight from some Benz.
But which one ? Is it by any chance a CDI 200 unit from mid 90s, as well as a 5-speed manual gearbox ?
Here are the details:
DOHC Common Rail Diesel
Total Displacement (cc) 1,998
Bore (mm) 86.2
Stroke (mm) 85.6
Compression Ratio 18:1
Idling Speed 750
Maximum Output (ps/rpm) 141/4,000
Maximum Torque (Nm/rpm) 310/1,800 - 2,750
Maximum Speed (mph) 104
Emissions (g/km) 197 197
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Free enterprise is the basis of western democracy. Read more
Oh yes, it is waaay to noisy.
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Free enterprise is the basis of western democracy.
OK, I realise this is perhaps schoolboy stuff to a lot of you, but my school didn't teach me propperley
1. What's the best way to keep a chamois leather in good condition so that it lasts a long time and works properly? My old one hangs in the garage getting stiffer and stiffer, rotting away. Don't want that to happen to my new hyper expensive one from Halfords...
2. Should I be doing anything with the fabric roof on the MX5 to keep it in good order. Not even sure if I should be washing it when I do the rest of the car.
Any advice, as ever, much appreciated. (I realise not to use the chamois on the roof, btw!)
Happy Easter to all
Lee
-- He\'s a cheeky wind-up scamster and he\'s on the radio.... Read more
........ - just stick in the washing machine on a 40
degree wash without fabric conditioner.
It would probably be cheaper to buy a new one each time!
--
L\'escargot.
Has anyone seen any of the Wrecks to Riches programs on the discoveryturbo channel ?
Don't know if they've been broadcast on terrestial or freeview at all.
Essentially they are buying cat C or D write-offs and repairing them for they claim " a fraction of their forecourt cost"
Would love to know anyones opinions on what they've seen so far !
So far most of the cars have come in about £1 - 2K above their repair estimates, and from what I have seen only about £2k less than their forecourt price, which I reckon so far has been about 90% of an undamaged vehicle.
They do of course claim at the start of each episode " a well-repaired cat-C or D write-off is worth 70% of the value of an undamaged car".
Obviously they have yet to manage this..........
Most cars have had unexpected and difficult to detect damage only apparent once striped down (which I would have expected) - Surely this is why they are in the salvagers as the insurance assessors ahve already worked out there is something nasty lurking underneath.
Also the labour charges they get from their bodyshop always seems pretty low compared to the amount of work and number of people seen doing stuff. I expect thebodyshop is hapy to do cheap work while thre is a camera running
From watching the show I get the opinion that for the average Joe Public it is not easily possible unless you are in the motor trade and/or have your own workshop and bodywork/mechaical skills
Does anyone think it ispossible to economically repair a Cat-C or D write-off, and what is its true market value compared to undamaged ?
I would have thought much less than 70% as most people would run a mile if a car came up as a Cat-C/D write-off when they did an HPI check.
Certainly I think if you later tried to part-ex at a main-dealer they would not touch it ?
Would love to know peoples opinions/experiences after seeing this program ! Read more
Interestingly Surrey_Scientist if you follow the link that DD gave, then the car is registered as a cat "w", never heard of this but if its the same as "x" as the site goes on to say then this vauxhall is not registered as a total loss and could be sold "clean" ie not on the hpi register.
This new category was introduced as a way for insurance companies to get maximum wonga for salvage vehicles after the vic check came in
It is also a fact that all vehicles have to be advised to swansea irrespective of whether an insurance claim has been made so a nice little back door way of beating the system
Dodgy ground me always thinks
Hi guys,
Got a problem with my '96 Citroen AX 1.0l which is really annoying me so I hope you can help.
When turning the steering wheel slightly to the right (approx. 1 o'clock) while accelerating I get a repeating knocking sound coming from the OS front wheel. This only happens at low speeds (1st or 2nd gear) and if more lock is put on the sound goes away. Also if less gas is applied (go really slow) the noise isn't present. As you can imagine this problem is most annoying at roundabouts.
The knocking has been getting progressively worse but two weeks ago I noticed a split OS CV boot and decided to replace the full driveshaft with a new one. If anything the knocking has got worse so I'm left wondering what else it could be.
My only thoughts are that either the suspension bushes are worn (how can I test if these are the problem?) or the new driveshaft is a duffer and I need to take it back.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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could be a wheel bearing, jack it up and see if there is any appreciable play in the wheel , then try with the brakes on if stops then thats your prob
It has been reliable for 180,000 miles, but needed gearbox rebuild. Recent comprehensive service inc cam belt. Speedo & odo dead for a while. Specialist VW Audi garage suggested replace in a year's time, hopefully OK until then.
It starts and dies after 2 secs, key warning light flashes, no change with spare key. Using accelerator, it appears something switches it off. If immobiliser, can it be bypassed?
I am an electronics engineer, but little info available. Is it a scrapper or might it be a poor connection or an easily replaced part?
If a scrapper, what would you replace it with? I have up to £7K and need reliability and longevity. Is the extra cost worth it for an Audi. Should I buy a Mondeo TDi? Read more
It certainly looks like a poor connection problem. I thumped the dash once again. The odometer is now displaying for the first time in a year and the tacho went round full scale into the clock! The car starts every time at the moment- but I know I need to get those connectors sorted out or it will happen again.
Thanks for the advice everyone, it is much appreciated.
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