March 2007
I've got a Ford Fiesta XR2i 1.6 8v 1990 H reg. It's been fine since i had it, until yesterday when i had got home from a trip out with the missus and kids. We'd just got back and was pulling into the drive when the car began to rev at 4500/5000rpm without the throttle being pressed! I checked under the hood and the throttle wasn't even moving. After about 30 seconds the cars revs dip to normal idle and flick back upto 2500rpm by itself this continues until you turn the engine off. Start it again after that and it does exactly the same, screams upto 4500/5000rpm, then dips as above and stays like that. Ive had no other problems what so ever that may have even been a warning to this happening.
Please help!!!! Read more
Can anyone advise how much damage is normally caused when the cambelt fails on an N reg Clio Oasis (1171cc engine (DA01243))? I understand that it was running at approximately 2000 rpm when the failure occured. I assume that it is an interferance engine and the valves will have been bent - is this correct? I have tried searching the site but have not found specific information for this engine. All replies gratefully received! Read more
I knew I'd seen it somewhere on the forum.
Here's a list of engines, interference and non-interference.
Perhaps the moderators could provide a link somewhere, as it's a question that seems to recur.
www.familycar.com/CarCare/GatesFrame.htm
Does anyone have any tips on how to re fit the the window regulator clip on a series 2 model? There is not enough room inside the door to put enough force on the clip to push it through the rubber plug. I have pushed it half way through which is just enough to hold the glass as long as i dont open it.
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Hi,
There are numerous 'net forums on Citroens, including a "yahoo groups" one, and the Citroen Car Club/
A posting on there would certainly elicit an answer.
I run an XM, so can't really help.
r
I know theres has been lots of discussion on 306 hdi injector rattle and i have read the posts but i just need some clarification.
I know that both the injectors and alternator pulleys have common faults on these cars. When reving to around 3200rpm there is a definate ticking noise from the engine but how can I tell whether this is injectors or a worn pulley?
I dont want to spend time and money on investigations if there is a simpler way of telling. Also when the engine is started and is cold the alternator does whistle until warm and the belt has been renewed and correctly tentioned-would this accur if the pulley was worn
My other question is if i come across some injectors (if that is the cause) i know about matching part numbers on the top of the injector but would the ecu have any problems recognising the new injectors if i get a complete set of the same number?
sorry if this is a borng post but id really like to sort this one way or another
cheers Read more
The ticking noise will go once over 3200 if it's the injectors I believe. The sound of my old HDi 90 really 'cleaned up' once it was over 3200rpm.
Hi all,
I have been reading in this forum for quite a while and have often found the info very valuable.
Long story short and here are my problems now.
Basically I was ripped off by a trader who has sold me this xsara HDI 110 auto and now have so many big and little problems, so any info is appreciated.
1) Strange one but occassionally when engine is warmed up, i am limited to a rev of no more than 4k, that makes it dangerous for my missus as she does not know what to do if the car don;t go but to put her foot down, obviously being an auto this is make it worse as its not going to change up a gear to make her go, if you knwo what I mean. But this problem is intermittant.
2) Driver side e/windows was working intermintantly but now its has completely packed up. again, can you identify which wire in the plug (to the door) so I can start tracing the problem?
3) Central locking bounces up and down, as in it locks, and unlocks again. I read something like the system thinks its not fully shut and unlock itself and may be due to a broken wire or something... So.. where do I start looking??
4) both front carpets are soaked with anti-freeze and of course when i put the heater on, you can smell it too... I suspect its a leak along the heater matrix somewhere but now, how do I get into the heater matrix and look? (what do i need to remove?)
Anyway, its turned out to be a complete nightmare but the car is ok if not the above faults.. Its a diesel, its an auto and its a small hatch.. Just what I need for the wife, but can do without the problems lol
Thanks
Joe
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True mileage should be obtainable from a Citroen dealer from the car's computer. If it's a genuine trader simply get a quote for the problems to be fixed and go through the small claims court.
Hi, I wondered if anyone had some simple suggestions re drivers seat adjustment. I have driven a new shape Fiat Panda for the past 18 months and I appreciate it isn't the largest thing on the road. My previous car was a 2001 Punto that had quite more interior room, larger seats and a larger windscreen. I'm six foot tall (male) and find myself adopting a slouch behind the wheel. If I set the drivers seatback pretty vertical this makes me adopt an upright posture but then I find my view out of the windscreen is limited, especially with the sun visor down I can't see the traffic signals at lights and have to look through the side window for the green signal! Perhaps it is due to the seat height and windscreen size.
I read somewhere that when your seat is properly adjusted your clutch leg should be slightly bent at the knee and arms slightly bent but not straight at the elbow. When I adjust the seat to get this right I find I have a massive blind spot on my right shoulder, when stopping at junctions you are looking right into the side pillar between the front and rear doors. Also the centre console on the panda protrudes and there is nowhere for your left knee to go.
It may be just the car is too small, although in theory for cars 'one size fits all' it would be easier if I was only 5-7'' etc. The only car I remember that was similar was an original Mini back in the 80's where you always had a hunched driving position.
Reason for all this is I have got some back pain between my shoulder blades, feels like my spine is seizing up (2 hours per day commute) and wanted to get it sorted. Do you think some cars are a compromise on ergonomics - a larger car might be less restrictive allowing me to 'spread out' and not be cramped up.
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I am 6' 3" and from my experiece the best seats are:
Saab 9000 (C reg and P reg)
Volvo 940 (J reg)
Renault 19 (H reg) had a rather upright driving position compared to fords and vauxhalls
And the worst:
Vauxhall Nova (worst by a long way, back ache within 5 miles)
Volvo 340
Every ford I've ever traveled in as an adult, both driving and as a front seat passenger.
Just thought I'd seek the opinions of the BR on how me and my friend did yesterday whilst car shopping.
We went out llooking at an older MR2 but ended up in the Vauxhall dealership quite unexpectedly, after sitting in the new Tigra my mate fell in love with it and said that it felt a lot more comforatble to sit in than the MR2, and I have to agree with him that it is an exceptionally nice looking little car.
He ended up getting a brand new 07 reg 1.4 base model Tigra with metallic paint for a £200 deposit and then £230 per month over 60 months.
I originally looked at the PCP deal offered by Vauxhall for him but the payment was only £5 per month less and it required a £1500 deposit which he didn't have.
So, did we get a good deal? I was concerned at the time as I hadn't actually checked out Tigra prices so had no idea just how good or bad the price was, we did ring another dealer over lunch whilst trying to make our minds up and they said that for the same model of car he would be looking between £250 - £260 per month so we went and signed up for it anyway
Will be grateful to hear anyone's opinions on the price, although discussion about the qualities of the Vauxhall Tigra aren't really relevant as that's the car that he wants and nothing else will do! :-)
Blue Read more
Very true Mad Maxy, that's why I tried to put a disclaimer in mhy original posting!
I knew I should expect it though! :-)
Blue
I appreciate this has been discussed many times before, and the general conclusion is simply that supermarket petrol meets the same standards as branded petrol. However in light of recent events I'm interested in looking at this issue from a couple of different angles:
1. Does the process used in producing supermarket petrol make it more likely that contaminants are introduced?
2. If the process is a commercial secret, and is only judged by whether the end product meets the appropriate standards (that are clearly lacking in this case), does the public have a right to know how their petrol is being produced?
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So Tesco 99 is clearly not a performance fuel. I bow to your superior intelligence. Not.
>>Ok, I forgot about that one, but I was talking more about fuel in general (ie, the 95 Ron stuff)
>>Am I forgiven? ;o)
I'll forgive you anything, old Mod, for the pivotal -^- role you have in my life. However, it is only the higher octane fules that are sold as premium fules. Optimate, Ultimax, Texicam, Brontigrate etc. etc. The lower grade fules are all fules.
95 RON stuff is 95 RON stuff which is suitable for most cars on the road.
98 (/99/97) RON stuff is 98 (/99/97) RON stuff that suits certain cars because they benefit from the higher octane rating; not because they benefit from the addertives.
When Aprilia comes up with a peer-reviewed journal from one of his professional journals indicating the essential nature of these alleged addertives, then I'll no longer be so vi(tu)perative about them. Until then, it's a marketing success story.
Tesco and Morrisons were jolly unlucky. It could presumably just as easily have happened to Shell as they all get their petrol from third party suppliers..
This car is 2003 and has 64k on the clock. Under light load it has a severe vibration coming from the drivetrain. It feels like a knackered uj but they look and feel fine, also the cush drive on the front of the prop looks and feels fine.
As soon as load is applied the vibration disappears.
Do any of you know of any common faults to check Read more
Providing you have not bottomed the car and knocked the shaft out of alingment then look at the front prop shaft mounts big rubber things,also check engine and box mounts what appear to ok at first sight often hide hidden damage.If it started all of a sudden I would still suspect drive train the back bearing on the auto box,damaged drive shaft UJ's.
Hi All,
I would really appreciate your help again i have a 1998 ford escort gti which has started to develop a problem with the drivers lock,
When you dead lock the car it seems to jam the drivers lock and wont open and if i try and open it from the passenger side the central locking goes crazy.
It seems to be fine if i just lock it without activating the dead locking system if that makes any sense. i would really apprerciate any help before i strip the door down as don't really know what to look for.
Thanks in advance,
Maretz Read more
Browse
sounds like the throttle body sticking open try cleaning it with carb cleaner should solve it
chris