January 2007
Has anyone an idea what the torque setting should be for alloy wheels on a 2001 1.2 Corsa or can tell me where I might find the technical info?
The haynes manual says 80 lb ft for wheel nut tightening but doesn't say if this is for a steel or alloy wheel. It sounds a bit high for an alloy. Read more
I have an 05/55 plate Skoda Superb. Yesterday the offside bi-xenon headlight dipped bam bulb failed. The failure come up on the display to warn of this.
The headlight units contain all the vehicle lights including spot and fog lights. The local Skoda dealer asks for £98 plus fitting charge of approx £45 all plus VAT which seems a bit expensive to me. The headlight unit must be accessible, so if I can source a correct bulb, my neighbour, who is a keen motorbike restorer says he should be able to fit correctly. Any suggestions would be welcome as to procedure and sourcing spares, also what information do I need about the car to ensure the correct spares are sourced? Many Thanks.
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You can get proper bulbs Osram/Philips for about £30 online, especially
from mainland Europe instead of ripoff Britain.
Can you supply a link?
However, the bulbs don't blow as a rule, as there is
no filament, they just get dimmer and dimmer over about 3,000
hours which is about 200,000 miles @ 33mph & 50% night.
I have seen a few cars when they have gone dim in a much shorter time than that - a 2005 SAAB 9-5 for example. We replaced the tube and it was back to fully bright.
In this case, it sounds like a safety cutout in the
ballast which has now reset.
Does the Skoda have a 'safety cutout' - and if so, what caused the cutout to cutout......?
I have a Citroen C3 1.4 03 model, which has run very well, howver one thing I have noticed is sometimes that if I have the stereo/in-car lights on without the enjine running that after a while there is a red flashing bateery symbol on the dashboard.
The car is driven very regualry so it's unliekly to be because the status of energy in the baterry is low.
Is this a simple warning to turn the engine on so that the battery does not get drained.
Its a bit of dumb question which I may well have already answered, however could someone give me confirmation.
Cheer
EF Read more
I can remember my Dad telling me he once drove along the M4 in this then Fiat Tempra on his way home from Newbury.
It was a rainy night so he had his headlights, wipers & radio on.
Whilst driving a long the red battery light came on, he was slightly alarmed at first, he immediately switched the radio off & a few seconds later the light disappeared.
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Its not what you drive, its how you drive it! :-)
I have a recurring problem! My 2003 Scenic dCi started showing its glow plug / electrical fault light accompanied by a loss of power. The following was sent in an email to the Renault dealer where it received its second 'treatment'. They reckoned that the computer hadn't been reset after the work by Citroen, and they reset it. It didn't work and nothing has changed from the original write up below:
'The engine loses power intermittently, in conjunction with the yellow glow plug / electrical fault warning light coming on. This can last for between 30 seconds or a few minutes. It can run a 50 mile trip without happening, happen two or three times within 10 miles, or only happen once in a trip. When the light comes on, the car will maintain the speed it is at, but lose any overtaking power and starts to lose speed if travelling uphill. As soon as the warning light goes out, the power comes back. Citroen replaced the glow plugs and the EGR valve (see paperwork) but the problem remains'.
The car is due back in with Renault next week, and my warranty doesn't cover diagnostics! They say they have been on Renault Net, but this fault isn't a known problem. This is a potentially dangerous fault and we now avoid overtaking anything unless there is a huge safety margin. Not good!
Has anyone out there had a similar experience? Please Help!
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Can you post the pictures please? Thanks in advance
Thinking of getting a new Freelander 2 - 2.2diesel. The reviews appear positive and it seems to be a very well built and comfortable allrounder with good road performance along with above average off road capabilities.
Anyone own one of these new models and if so what do think? Cheers
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Freelander 2's are appearing to gain a reputation for electrical glitches but then they are just joining the ranks of others that also suffer with horrendous electrical faults. You only have to read TSB's these days to see that even Merc & BMW & VAG are also blessed with continous electrical faults as manufactures try & compete with Central control modules to carry out every operation the vehicle has to offer. Complex or what!
I pickup a new Freelander 2 in a few weeks so lets see how it behaves, sounds like the AA may be busy.
I had one on loan for a while & put it through its paces & couldn't fault the Autobox & it had plenty of grunt. The engine was extremly quiet & handling was very good with almost no body roll. In fact I tried to catch the auto box out & get it to hunt but it was faultless.
I agree with Mike the key system is carp but its the way they are going now. LR are now suppose to have most of the electrical issues sorted so fingers crossed.
IJ
We're just doing a major service on our 'Y' regd. 2.5TD 4x4, We picked up the 75W-90 for the trans. & drop box, in 1 litre bottles!!! Don't they ever sell it in 5 litres to save a bit of expense?....and the environment ;-)
Came to do the axle oils and the manual talks of Hypoid SQM-2C 9002-AA for the front and back axle less LSD but SR-M2C9102-A w/ LSD.
Any simple ways of telling whether we have LSD, just jack up one side and see if the wheel turns freely?
So looked up the first oil [9002-AA] and they talk of 80w-90 GL5, but what is the equivalent for the 2nd spec. of oil?
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O.K. so to update you all on this thread - and maybe for future reference this will be logged for any of those who will also be faced with the same problem I had.
The Ford dealer informs me that the correct oils are as follows :-
Transmission & drop box - CASTROL SMX-S
Rear axle with LSD - CASTROL "LIM-SLIP" [LS90?]
Front axle - CASTROL SYNTRAX
Trying to replace a front sidelight bulb on an "04" Corsa sxi and stuck! I have followed the instructions on the owners manual to no avail.
I can see the bulb, but cant get near it.Does the head light have to be removed? Read more
Not familiar with this year Corsa, but if a W5W wedge bulb, it is usually mounted in the end of a plastic tube which is in turn inserted into the headlight so that the bulb sticks out at the front. The tube usually has a pair of wires which you can hook with a finger or tool and once you get a good grip of them, you can tug them until the tube pops out and withdraw it, replace the bulb and the switch on to test and leave lit until refitted as it's easier to guide the bulb into the hole when lit by looking the front of light. Some cars have the pastic tube a bayonet fit where you need to turn it 45 degrees, but I don't think Vauxhalls do,
My peugeot 406 hdi 02 reg doesn't start up.
Problem started around xmas when temperatures fell.
I've noticed on the dash thermo that if the temp outside is above 11deg cent it starts and any lower it needs a squirt of easy start while someone cranks the engine.
(AA man thought it was because the battery wasn't properly charged and introduced me to, "easy start" spray.
A squirt of that in the air intake as i started the car and the engine came alive. But ever since the problem has not gone, i need to constantly use easy start!)
Asked around further and was told it would be the glow plugs.
Changed glow plugs and still no luck!
Engine cranks as before but doesn't start!
Garage guy now wants to try the relay but don't really wanna pay them for more unnecessary work if can be helped.
Any ideas?
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As has already been said, Easy Start is the best way to cause serious engine damage. A diesel engine is a compression ignition engine and relies on the intake air reaching a minimum temperature when compressed. The introduction of any combustible substance will cause detonation. In short the expanding gasses resulting from the Easy Start burning well before injection takes place will be trying to force the piston down the cylinder while the cranskshaft is trying to push it up. Something has to give, and that's likely to be a con-rod which will become mis-shaped, and normal compression will be reduced further. This is why that say engines become 'addicted' to Easy Start, because in fact they actually do.
You might have a fault with the high pressure pump or injector nozzles. A common rail diesel engine needs to achieve a fuel rail pressure of 10,000kpa before the engine will start.
I want to buy a car that will tow a trailer carrying one horse. Something like a Golf estate, maybe. It needs to be not too much of a gas guzzler. Tall order? Any ideas? Read more
Surely you could *theoretically* exchange your present vehicle for two other ones, as previously suggested.
My horsebox experience extends to a girlfriend who was very into the things about 15 years ago. All three daughters rode (ahem) so the family had a knackered old (Bedford?) horsebox. Huge horrid thing, but practical. Funnily enough I rather went off the young lady when I saw her feeding her mount Polos mouth to mouth.
Whatever you decide to do, here´s hoping it´s safe, cost-effective and fun.
Regards,
Barchettaman
PS can´t call me ´Barking mad´ now RF, I´ve sold it :-(
My boss is thinking of buying me a car outright instead of via contract hire.
If he buys a car over,say, 3 years old, does my tax liability change ?
If not, then presumably it is based on the current list value &co2 rating.
But what if the car is no longer made - what list price do I use ?
Anyone know any useful web sites which would explain this please. Read more
The poster with the E-type picked up on the usual point, but I'm not sure he made it quite clear - and i don't think (forgive me if I missed it) anybody else has.
You are taxed on the list price of your car, adjusted for CO2. The list price is the list price of the car when it was registered - so if a Fiesta cost £12,000 in 2003 and £13,000 on 2004 then a 2003 version is 'worth' £12k, and a 2004 version worth £13k. Glass's Guide will have list prices - available in your local library.
However, the list price of a MK ii Jaguar when new was maybe £1,000 (??). So the tax is as near as makes no difference nil.
This is PROVIDING the car is worth less than £15,000. If the car is worth over £15k, then it's current value is taken, instead of the list price. The MK ii Jag (unless 'modernised') is worth a shade under £15k, so fits the bill nicely.
Just beware of too many new leather seats, if that pushes the value over 15k.
Definitely one for a 'family' company unless your employer *REALLY* likes you.
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Most alloys I've had have steel inserts in the holes, so same torque for steel and alloy. I suspect most car specs are around 80 ft/lb - big pull on supplied wrench is fairly close.