May 2005
Question - how good does a replacement windscreen done under insurance have to be ?
I ask because I recently had the screen on my New Beetle replaced after a nasty crack, and I have just noticed, not having driven it since the replacement, and large optical distortion about half-way down, which was not there before. Although you can see out of it, anything mid-way goes all big/small. Presumably the replacement has to be of the same quality ? Read more
I have a diesel Mondeo, the first time I've owned a diesel. The general advice is to let the revs die down before switching off the engine, which I try to do. Can someone explain these questions ?
Does the turbo only work when you are using the engine's performance, and not when driving at lower speeds, such as in a built-up area ? I know when you accelerate there is quite a surge of power after a moment.
When I do turn it off, what is the noise that keeps going for a couple of seconds, like a cooling fan. There is no such noise on the non-turbo work LDV van, although it is noisy anyway.
I find I rarely need to use the acceleration to the full, as it has plenty of go without chasing it.
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Try this: go for a blast in your turbo car. About 5 miles should do, but make sure there's some full throttle work in there.
Pailton (Warks) to Lutterworth (where I live) is 7 miles thro' good B road and 1.5 miles dual carriageway followed by 0.4 miles through the estate onto our drive. Rover 820 turbo (the 200bhp one) with water cooled Garrett T25. Give it 'loads' on the B road and then full throttle all the way down the dual. Gently into the estate and straight into the dark garage. Up with the bonnet. Stand well back - the heat is unbearable on your face. Turbo glowing a lovely bright orange. leave car to idle with bonnet up. Takes 10 mins before there is no discernable glow left in the turbo.
After any heavy throttle work withing 5 miles of home or after a long run I now leave my car to idle for as long as it takes for the fan to cut in and out twice. Usually about 10 mins.
The previous owner was a car nut like me and did much the same. the car has now done 138k and drives like new (admittedly it is maintained to the highest standard). Had the cam covers off recently. Clean as new in there. Good indication that the turbo bearings are probably in similar condition. That's the way i want it to stay, because it's my car and I'm the one who'd have to shell out the hard earned if the turbo failed prematurely.
Also, if you could stand in any OEMs warranty return centre (like I do) and look at the insides of pallet loads of turbos returned under warranty, you'd realise that a turbo is not a fit-and-forget item. Treat it with care.
I'm fed up with the patchy performance and poor cold starting of my Volvo 360, so I'm planning to convert the LE-Jetronic system into Megasquirt, which is a DIY-FI system that you build and solder yourself.
I'm not doing it for performance reasons, but I SUPPOSE it counts as a mod, so I should declare it to my insurance. Its up for renewal in July anyway, so I'll probably fit it and declare it when renewal notices start coming through.
I'm with Direct Line at the moment, and I'll bet they either refuse to insure or hike up by extortionate amounts. I'm 24 BTW.
Anybody know of any insurance companies that take a 'sensible' view to 'mods'.
I'm probably going to see a minimal gain in bhp. I'm still using the same injectors, fuel pump etc. but should hopefully get better, more consistent performance. Read more
LE Jetronic is very basic analogue system and should therefore be easy to modify IF you know which resistors to switch around. I have investigated this and AFAIK I haven't been able to find a book to tell me which resistors do what.
All the cold start stuff, pressure regulator, thermal time switch, cold start inj, etc etc etc has been changed with new and the AFM has been exchanged with known good one with little difference.
I have heard and seen many Volvo 360 B200E's doing this over-rich running at cold start and so reckon its either a common failing or a design fault. Never mind I hooked a resistor/capacitor circuit onto the coolant temp sensor which has affected a cure for the cold start overrich, which will tide me over until MS can go in, insurance quotes being reasonable.
The reason I intend to run the engine in OEM to start with is I don't want to get lots of lovely detonation to ruin the bores when I inevitably get the fuelling map slightly wrong.
I have been hankering after buying a Merc SLK in my dotage and am sadly seeing myself as the old guy in the sportscar-flat hat- scarf etc . I was thinking of 12 to 15k and keeping it adinfinitum as sort of a present for a lifetime of graft. What are the pitfalls? Read more
Probably the only pitfall is the Mercedes dealer network. They don't have the best reputation.
Main dealer garage changes lower wishbone (ball joint knackered-under warranty) as I previously reported.
Does not check wheel tracking(has to be outsourced incidentally)merely does a visual check of the tyre wear to assess whether tracking needs to be checked.
They decide it does not need to be checked. I inform them that the tyres are new so how can they be sure tracking doesn't need rechecking?
They agree to re-check tracking. My question is should this be at their expense? I would assume that it should be done as part of the job. Goes in next week and I have to waste an hour of my time hanging around while they get it done!
Can anyone be trusted to do a proper job? I feel as though I'm becoming paranoid. Please do tell me if you think I am! Read more
Re my earlier post. the vibration problem is clear.
I had two differnt brands/slightly different treads on front & rear axle.
The garage who did the brakes a few weeks ago mismatched them when they were refitted and I didn't notice.
So by swapping to new (fairly rigid) tyres on the rear and part-worns on the front, we are rolling happily again.
Normally I stick to one brand, but a spare came into use a while back and upset the pattern.
That said, I still agree- no matter how perfect the wheel, the tyre is not. And the tracking on the car is still a bit out - which I put down to speed humps....
Hi Folks,
I have been looking for a another car and came across this Japanese car by Mitsubishi the Galant, it seems massively under rated as its reliable, good looking and a good one can be had for £3-4. However they were discontinued in 03?? Has anyone ever owned this car and would care to comment? HJ says it has "More suspension 'clonks' than a BMW"???
Barry Read more
Under-rated usually means poor image. So no German cars make the list!
Most of the French large cars seem to by-pass journalistic credit, like the Peugeot 605. That was even criticised in one piece for looking too like the 405...so!!! Heavy depreciation only due to slow demand but cheapish to run per a mass- market manufacturer.
Unless you're a racer, the Signum and Vel Satis too will be cheap, reliable, very comfortable, capacious transport, second hand.
Genrally, large cars made by non-German makers seems bargains!
I recently had a flat so put the new spare on the front. I then went to the local Costco fast fit here in the US to get a new tire on the other front and make that the spare (replacing the flat one). The fitter told me they don't fit new tires to the front (unless doing all four). I just didn't have the energy to argue or question this bizarre policy so I just got him to replace the flat spare with the new tire, came home, and swapped it myself.
Can anyone suggest why they have this policy? Read more
The problem is that I have found that rear tyres last four times as long as front tyres so you have to put new ones on the front. When putting new tyres on I have never been asked if I wanted to swop rear to the front.
Things I'd like to see on all cars:
1-foglights that turn off automatically after 10 minutes.
2-ditto indicators
3-seatbelts you cant trap in doors
4-light sensitive horns that deactivate during hours of darkness
5-speed governers you can set easily yourself
6-an extra button on your key remote that closes all the windows and sunroof
7-windscreen washers that give a spray, not a jet
8-door speakers that arent obscured by passengers legs etc
9-some way of demisting the side windows that actually work
10-front seats that you genuinely can fold flat
Anyone care to add to the list?
WTM Read more
In addition to the essential squirt of oil for tailgaters someone here has already mentioned, I would like a similar system added to the sides and front of the car so when the old dear or flat cap decides they are going to drift into my lane or pull out in front of me without looking in either direction they would receive a good squirt of something nasty ... or better still some sort of large arm which reaches out and pushes them back to where they came from!!
Oh and a radio where I dont have to press every single button several times just to change to the next station or track on my CD.
hi,
my volvo 03 reg' s60 T5 SE has become very camber sensitive! on a left camber it pulls to the left, and vice versa. does any one else have this problem with s60's? it maybe due to volvo not putting the sub-frame back on properly after a new gearbox was fitted????? volvo have tried laser aligning the wheels - that has helped alot - i have tried everthing - front wheels on back and vice versa, tyre pressures are fine, distance between rear and front wheels are equal. any ideas would be mostly appreciated, Thanks!!!! Read more
thanks 4 da response - im going back to volvo on thursday to see if they say anything about the sub frame - i wil report back. Thanks
Does anyone know the maximum RPM achieved by an Internal Combustion engine?
F1 cars routinely rev at 19,000 and I believe some racing 2 stroke motorcycles achieved speeds of well in excess of 20,000 revs.
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"F1 renault engine on the test bed"
Now THAT is an italian tune up.
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You're entitled to insist on the manufacturers part being ordered through the dealer. Replacement glass comes in three different types.
OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer - The manufacturers sourced part.
OES - Original Equpment Supplier - Made by the the OEM manufacturer but not supplied via the car manufacturer, should be the same as OEM except no car manufacturers logo in the info within the glass.
Pattern - Who knows? Could have come from anywhere.
Stick to OEM or OES. If you insist on OEM no one will be able to tell it's not the original screen as it will have the manufacturere logo.
It sounds like you've got pattern.