October 2004

teabelly

Looking in the 1989 lighting regulations they seem to be enforce on cars first used after April 1991. What happens about cars first used between the 1989 date and the date the act comes into force in 1991? I am thinking specifically in the area of foglights and reversing lights. My older car has a pair of rear fogs and a pair of reversing lights. I notice cars made after 1991 seem to have one of each. Which side are they supposed to be and are there regs on wattage for each? Are there any regs on visible white lights from the rear of the car? I have a strange foglight which is just one of the reversing lights with a switch on the dashboard...The 1989 regs say the rear foglight has to be within 400mm of the edge of the car (I am assuming side here) but if the car is first registered before the April 1991 date does that mean it doesn't apply?
teabelly Read more

henry k

>> The Focus has two reversing lights and 2 fog lights.
You sure about that?

>>
IIRC the Focus SALOON has two reversing lights and 2 fog lights.
memyself-aye

Our 1996 Micra failed its MOT with poor near side rear brake pressure. Leaking cylinder replaced at reasonable £13. Still failed with faulty load sensing valve diagonosed (stops rear wheels locking up). Dealer wants THREE HUNDRED AND SIXTY quid for a new valve!!
Any ideas - can the old one be 'freed' up, bypassed, or otherwise made to work?? Read more

memyself-aye

JOB DONE !
The valve is as desribed and accessible from under the car. Checked the two pistons were moving freely (they were) and returned to MOT station. Second diagnosis focused on the n/s shoes themselves. Replaced for £21 and passed MOT.
Thanks to all for the posts.

Number_Cruncher

Nothing to do with our esteemed online guardians mind! :-)

There have been a number of threads recently asking about the benefits of various modifications. All modifications fit somewhere on the spectrum between 'highly advisable' and 'highly stupid'

Which modifications do the Back Room think are worthwhile?

My (somewhat dated) thoughts for good modifications are;

1) Replacing contact breaker points by an electronic system
2) Replacing Ford VV carbs by the equivalent Webber
3) Replacing some Ford auto chokes with manual chokes
4) Fitting duplex timing chains to A series engines
5) Updating A series SU carburrettors to 1 3/4" MG Metro spec
6) Replacing dynamos with alternators
7) Changing positive earth cars to negative
8) Fitting (noisy!) steel timing gears to Ford Essex engines
9) Fitting electronic versions of SU electric fuel pumps
10) Fitting electric fans instead of direct engine driven ones

What are the modern equivalents?

number_cruncher Read more

Stargazer {P}

Another rather dated one:

11) Replace single circuit drums brakes (front and rear) with dual circuit disc+drums with servo assistance

greg

Hi

I am thinking of buying some gti-6 alloys for my 306 xsi. I have found some for £160 (inc VAT, delivery and guarentee) minus tyres in a salvage yard. The guy says they are not kerbed and are in good condition, but I am unable to see them before I buy.

I will take them to Kwik fit or somewhere who will swap my tyres (same size) from old to new wheels and balance them for £8 per wheel.

Could there be any problems buying from a salvage yard? I assume it is possible (likely) that the wheels were involved in a write off crash or similar, so could they be damaged in some way that I won't be able to see?

They have a guarentee as I say and will be balanced etc, so I thought it sounded fine, but anyone think different or have any negative experience??

Thanks Read more

Andrew-T

greg, I once visited a place in Manchester after phoning about a set of wheels and being told they were in good nick. There was nothing in the whole yard in good nick. I don't know how you get a true opinion unless you have a friend living locally.

Duchess

Close to where I live is a steep windy hill. It is north facing and, in the winter, always becomes iced and covered in snow when appropriate.

Over the last few weeks, the road has been resurfaced with a very grainy concrete-like topcoat, presumably as a speed limiting method. However, in addition, at regular intervals down the hill, there are now also groups of several narrow quite sharp rumble strips. Even coming down the hill at a very moderate speed these produce a distinct jolt to occupants of a car (motorcyclists must find it even worse).

My question is, how are these strips going to react to ice? Without any technical knowledge at all, it seems to me that they will each become mini ski-jumps, making it far more likely that a driver/rider will skid off the carriageway. Whilst on one side, there is a steep soil bank with scrubby bushes at the base, the other side of the road has a thorn hedge followed by a very steep slope down to the valley floor.

Am I worrying about nothing or does this truly represent an increased safety hazard?

Read more

Mapmaker

It's supposed to be (near-as-dammit) impossible to skid on those anti-skid bits.

dodo

Am looking at a June 2000 Xsara Hdi SX for a second car. Nice car, well euipped and quite fast. Owner doesn't know if its a 90 or a 110. It has disc brakes all round. How can I tell? Read more

PhilW

110bhp has the code RHZ in the chassis number,the 90bhp has the code RHY.

Altea Ego

Just seen an advert on the Tele (london south east area) for a new Car Mag called Test Drive

Anyone got any first hand reviews or comments?
Read more

Avant

What Car is published by Haymarket, Test Drive by Dennis. Long-term fleet looks different to me!

Having had a read of TD, I think it's quite good in the same way that What Car is - I doubt if you would need to buy both. Its tests are a little longer and more detailed, and there promises to be more reader involvement, which must be a good thing as long as readers are selected from a wide range of people.

I think it may struggle without more USPs over What Car, which is well established and does a good job in its chosen market.

Vic_Abbott

Hi

I have had a search on this forum for similar problems but none for this engine.

I have a 2001 Omega 2.2 Petrol Auto with 45k miles. When its started from cold, the engine is quiet and smooth, but after 3-4 minutes of idling a metallic rattle starts to appear and gets progressively noisy as the engine gets warmer and at its most apparent at normal operating temperature. As soon as I accelerate over 1000 revs the noise goes, but on returning to idle, there it is again.

To date, I have changed the Cam Belt, both Pulleys, Tensioner and the previous owner assures me a brand new water pump was replaced at its 40k service (as recommended I find in HJ CBC Breakdown).

I'm really out of ideas with this and would appreciate greatly any help or pointers you may be able to give me.

Thanks in advance..... Read more

mfarrow

Hi

Might be a daft question, but have you tried opening the bonnet?

My escort has started to develop a rattle (only audible from inside) at idle, when warm, but if you pull the bonnet open it stops, reducing the problem to one of a bonnet lever/bush.

dickie

I had to remove the black door trim on the offside passenger door. Somehow the front edge had been caught by something and bent it. On trimming it, there was a sharp edge remaining from the crome part of the trim. Garage said it would be an MOT failure, next time round.

So question is what can you use to remove the old adhesive, to prepare it for a new trim.

It's a 1993 1.8GLS. Not that this matters. Read more

dickie

Thanks for the all the advice chaps

Phil P

Looking for a family car for around the £4k mark and don't want something that's too long in the tooth so went to look at a 2001 (51) Citroen C5 2.0 HPI (petrol) Exclusive with 102k on the clock but up for a tempting £3495 which includes a 6-month parts & labour warranty.

The car has 2 previous owners (two different branches of TSB Lloyds car leasing) and has a fully dealer stamped service book.

On inspection (though I'm far from a mechanic) it looked clean and in good order, the suspension raised and lowered ok, the electrics work and it drove fine (though I'd take a second longer test drive before deciding anyway). Seems amazing value for a car that was first registered in December 2001, less than 3 years ago!

It was originally listed for £4495 but the selling dealer told me a previous customer put down a non-refundable deposit then got refused credit and he admitted they now want to simply get shot of it since they've had it since June, and even showed me that they paid more or less what they're now selling it for at auction.

So should I? Read more

machika

I didn't get any offer to replace the rear tyres and neither did they offer to refund the cost of checking the rear wheel alignment, which I paid for. I replaced the original (Michelin) front tyres at about 17500 miles, as there was uneven wear on those too but I probably changed them too soon to be honest. What was a shock though, was that the replacement tyres, which were Avons, wore down in about 13000 miles.