July 2004
Please don't turn this into a Renault bashing thread!
Just picked up brand new Scenic, brought home, showing off the electric sunroof and now it won't close fully! Book says that it may bounce back if it hits something but it is not. I can press the centre of the button to make it creep forward according to the book, but this isn't working.
I realise that it will need to go back to dealer, of course no mechanics in till Monday, have called the AA out but atthis moment in time he is dumbfounded as well!
Anyone know of this problem and how to fix? Read more
i was wondering if any knows how easy it is to change the front head light lens ie reflector on a ford mondeo as myn has just failed it mot on that many thanks
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This recent thread from fordmondeo.org covers what you want;
www.fordmondeo.org/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php/Cat...0
Just caught part of a news item on the rapid growth of car ownership in China. If I heard it right it claimed 1000 new vehicles were being added to the roads in Beijing alone every DAY and that this rate is increasing fast.
Whilst it's impossible to condemn anyone for wanting what we take for granted, the implications of this rate of growth on future fuel prices, the world economy and the environment are alarming especially since oil reserves are apparently on the wane. Read more
With reference to the original thread, a google search of 'oil reserves' makes for some interesting reading.
At idle both HC and CO emissions high. All readings drop to acceptable levels at higher rpm No fault codes from ECM. Only indication from diagnostic computer is that manifold pressure high. Any suggestions to what the problem is? Read more
The clue here is the ECU manifold vacuum reading of 58KPa should be much higher (lower?) at less than 40. Common failing is the MAP sensor in the ecu going faulty but you need to check the actual vac reading with a manometer connected to the inlet manifold, should be indicating about 18-19" mercury in old money. If it is reading low, say 15" then you have a valve timing issue if reading correct then ECU at fault. Try cleaning out the vacuum hose from manifold to ECU first.
Andrew
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
Hello all.
I hope someone can give me some advice regarding my 1999 facelift Omega 2.5 V6 GLS saloon. I bought the car just under a year ago from a Vauxhall main dealer with just over 30,000 miles on the clock. At the time I paid extra for a full 2 years of Network Q warranty on the car. The deal when I bought it was supposed to include a full service and multi point Network Q check. Ever since I collected the car the engine has emitted a very high pitch, high frequency rattle when hot and under any load. It is not a loud noise, but is outstandingly irritating. Also, when starting the car from cold, or when applying the power after slowing down in a high gear (engine hot) it gives out a short sharp hard rattle/clatter which to my ear sounds like 'piston slap'. This only happens for a slip second, but it is severe and can be felt by passengers through the floorpan of the car!!. It sometimes does this when hot starting too. I have sent the car back to dealer many times and every time they say that there is nothing they can do. They cannot find a 'hard fault' with the engine, but the Omega mechanic (who I have great respect for) at the dealership has told me that it is the only Omega 2.5 V6 that he has ever heard make these noises. He acknowledges that it is not right, and guesses that the ECU mapping could be to blame, but says that on the late Omega's the mapping cannot be altered. I am further annoyed by the fact that he told me the car is overdue for a cambelt (it has now covered 44,000 miles). This should have been replaced before the car was despatched with a Network Q warranty and service surely. I have had no luck with this car it has needed a new exhaust back-box (replaced under warranty) and two new headlamps because of water ingress (again, under warranty)- even the drivers door is showing signs of rusting from the inside along the bottom. I have again told the dealership and they say that they are 'awaiting a decision' from Vauxhall. After many happy years of Senator ownership, this is not the Vauxhall-Opel flagship that I was expecting. Am I within my rights to ask for a replacement car or a refund?. Any comments will be gratefully received.
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Assuming that the car was 4 years old when you bought it, and that the Vauxhall service schedule says 4 years *or* 40k, the cambelt should have been changed by Network Q prior to delivering you the car. It's as easy as that, by not doing this they have broken their own service schedule specification.
I would expect that upon you proving this to them they will do the cambelt now for you for free.
The light replacement sounds fair enough, i think you got lucky witht the exhaust. No idea about the rattling noise.
Considering buying an E class Mercedes.
Would like to know the differences in trim and equipment levels between AvanteGarde and Elegance.
Andrew
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Simplicate and add lightness!! Read more
2001-2
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
..in my benighted adopted home country, in which I have just had a dreadful week for a variety of reasons.
Where I live you renew your annual registration based on the last figure in your plate number, e.g. 7 for July. The Land Transportation Office send round a crew to your local area on the first Saturday of each month to save you the hassle of going downtown and sitting in a shed with the hoi-polloi in the baking heat or teeming rain (delete as req'd).
So you rock up to the local clubhouse in a convivial atmosphere while a very polite chap with a pickup truck does your emission test (no one ever fails), stencils your VIN on the application form, ticks all the boxes to confirm your vehicle passes all the requirements to be driven on the highway (no bothersome MOT's here) and an extremely pleasant lady sells you your third party insurance, and another lady with her infant on her knee types out your policy in between texting her paramour and you go back in 3 days and collect your stickers for your licence plates. During this particular episode (took about 90 mins) I met a chap with an immaculate 1955 BMW bike, a journalist (Brit) with fascinating tales to tell of our recent (rigged) elections and a delectable movie starlet with a Land Cruiser and substantial appurtenances who wouldn't give me her cellphone number. The whole thing was worth every cent (penny) of the £10.90 to reg and insure my bike for another year. Plus small tips of course to these obliging staff. Oh, and the cost of the Diet Coke for said starlet wannabe.
All this under the trees with a cool breeze blowing and a chap pedalling by on a trike selling hot coffee, cold beer and hot dogs.
When this place drives me nuts (which it does regularly) little cameos like this make me think again. The bureaucracy is normally horrendous (hence the corruption) but what a rare streak of brilliance to send the reg people round once a month to a street near you.
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Why dont they just send the old Chief Constable to The
Home Secretary and introduce him as the new one? Hes not
going to spot the difference is he?
LOL!
Cringeworthy, isn't it. We frequently knock the Police here in the Backroom, expressing our concerns that they are out of touch. So when you get a Chief Constable with popular support what does old Labrador Boy do? Sacks him.
He's a twisted and angry little man, but then most of that bunch are.
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Thanks, guys, for the links. Unique Phones was the most understandable.
I've now got the unlocking codes for Muta's 3510i. The codes
start #pw+ But the instructions say "to get the 'p' push
your '*' key 3 times, the 'w' is the '*' pushed
4 times." So does that mean #*******+ ?
Not quite HJ. To get the "p" press the "*" key 3 times and then wait a few seconds, then press the "*" 4 times to get the "w" and then wait a few more seconds. Finally press the "*" twice to get the "+" symbol.
Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the Air Con system on a 98 Primera (96 - 99 model) which they could email me ?
I have the factory manual for the P11 - 144 model (1999 - 2002), but this is of no use as it shows a fully automatic climate control, where mine is the basic manual system Read more
Hi hope someone can help me with a problem I have with an "N" reg nissan almera 1.4 lx.It continually pulls to the near side while driving,it brakes in a straight line.
I have had the tracking laser checked and it is o/k.Both front tyres seem to be in good condition with no signs of uneven wear.
The pulling is not severe,but if i let go of the stearing wheel it would be into the kerb within about 3 to 4 seconds.
Any suggestions?
(First posting on these boards so please be gentle with me!!!!) Read more
Its down to checking the basics.
Check front *and* rear wheel alignment. Check ride height at each corner. Basic chassis alignment check. Check for brake dragging on one side (front and rear). Feel the wheel centres after a run - side-to-side temperatures should be the same.
Could possibly be a fault with the P/S rack valving - but highly unlikely.


And unscrew it asap, lubricate the threads with vaseline or coperslip, then screw it back, these things sieze as soon as look at them.