April 2004
Following the sale of my wifes Clio recently, we were under a bit of pressure to buy a replacement car. So, last weekend went to look at a Rover 25 (wifes first choice).
Now I consider myself to be fairly knowledgeable about cars and what to look for. FIRST RULE: Don't buy a car in the rain. Saturday evening, light fading and raining, we looked at the car. Exact words from me "we should come back and look in the dry." Wife was excited at the prospect of a good deal and telling me to hurry 'cause we had to pick up the kids. So, judging old chap who 'dabbles in home trading' and armed with clear HPI report bought the car.
Got it home, parked it on drive and left it pending 01st May. Two days ago, walked past it and noticed passenger window had dropped. Started to examine cause, noticed overspray, then the red paint under the blue. Car had been (badly) repaired along its whole offside and sill. Then noticed that it wasn't equipped with ABS as per the advert.
Rung chap up, explained what I had found. Explained my dilemma and the misrepresentation of the car. Said I didn't feel we had to resort to any legal nasties, but I did have access to free legal representation. Blow me down, he told me to bring it back and gave me (with muttered objections) a full refund.
Moral of the story. Always follow your own rules and don't always trust a clear HPI report. Read more
I have a noise (a bit like a diff whine)which is most prevalent when travelling between 40 -50 mph on my 52 plate TDCI Ghia X estate (23000 miles on clock)
I can't work out whether its coming from front or back.
The noise doesn't change when going round corners or when I turn the wheel slightly in either direction
Anyone got any ideas - my local Ford garage has taken a look but couldnt find anything and suggested it could be tyre noise (I dont think so) Read more
I had a similar noise on my new Mondeo - Ford garage traced it to feathering on a front tyre - swapped back to front and problem solved.
Mondeos are heavy on front tyre wear. Make sure that the wheels are correctly aligned (take a trip to Micheldivers in Andover!). Since I have kept an eye on this, tyre wear is substantially reduced as is feathering,and odd noises!
Y
Sorry if this might be more appropriate for discussion.
I'm vaguely toying with the idea of an Audi 100 2.8 that I've seen, looks pretty good and is pretty cheap.
I seem to recall that this car had the 2.8 litre VW VR6 for the first couple of years of production. If I'm right, this would be chain driven (a big plus on a luxobanger). Can anyone confirm this please? Read more
Just to clarify;
The Golf III used the 2.8 (2792cc) version of the 15 degree V \"VR6\" engine whilst the Corrado used the 2.9 (2861cc) version of same.
The Audi 100/A6 uses a 2.8 (2771cc) standard 90 degree V6.
Chad.
Hello People, recently purchased a Golf GLTDI '96. Everything seems fine but I am a diesel newbie. Recently I left the engine running whilst the family was in the car and when I came back about ten minutes later I noticed the glow plug light flashing intermittently. I switched off and then started it up again and it seemed to stop after that, any ideas? Also I'd appreciate any advice and sites to visit with what I hope to be a long term investment and any general asvice for the car. (It has FSH 75,000 miles) Thank you. Read more
I wonder...AFAIK the MK3 won't have anywhere for the error codes to got to. Thanks for the reply I'll search it and see what I come up with.
Investigating poor running (pre ignition, top end clatter) on a rebuilt MGB engine that - on removing the timing chain cover- to check the valve timing- that the oil thrower is missing.
Can anyone advise exactly what this circular disc does and what happens if you leave it out?
Read more
Thanks for the advice - I don't think the missing thrower is directly related to the poor running as the crank timing chain wheel and cam wheel appear to be one cog out (the dots don't line up). Its just that on removing the timing cover the thrower was missing and I need to eliminate literally all possibilities. I'll fit a new one anyway.
The thread on driving in Oz included a few comments on the position of indicator stalks -- see www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=21476&...e
I was kinda relieved to see some disagreement about which side they should be on. I have read lots of car reviews which criticise RHD cars with stalks on the left ... but I have owned cars with both arrangements (and driven plenty more), and I much prefer the indicator stalk to be on the left of the wheel.
I find that my left hand is the one which is likely be off the wheel when turning or preparing to turn, because I need it to change gear.
With the indicator stalk on the left, it's easy enough to flick the stalk before and after using the gearlever: it doesn't interfere with gearchanges, and allows me to keep the right hand firmly on the wheel.
A r/h stalk means that I have to loosen my r/h grip to flick the indicators, which I find unsettling -- I need to bring the left hand back onto the steering wheel to do that safely, and it all feels like too much hand-changing.
Is this one of those things which should really be regarded as a personal preference, is there some tested logic which dictates the ideal side for this most-frequently used switch?
When I drove a LHD car with the stalk on the left, I didn't like that either: my choice would always be for the stalk to be nearest the middle of the car.
Is the stalk-on-the-outside preference just something which suits men with big hands? Or have I just confessed to being a bad driver, and given someone a chance to comment on the deficiencies of women drivers in general? {grin} Read more
There was a road test of a new Rolls many years ago in one of the car mags. The journos took it to Germany to test it at speed on the autobahn.
They fancied a coffee so decided to stop at the next service area. The driver got the indicator stalk wrong, switched the column-mounted automatic gear selector to a much lower gear and destroyed the gear box. At least he had the decency to write it up so we could all enjoy it!
Changed my oil today, and it made me wonder whether I could get the oil cheaper. Although I have a small fleet of vehicles (well, three) they all use different oil so I can't really buy in great bulk.
So does anyone know what chains sell cheap oil to the public? 10W/40, API SL rated, semi synth.
Might be useful to compile a list, so I'll start.
Vauxhall parts, £15.22/5l = £3.04/litre (inc VAT)
Cheers,
Mark Read more
Oh, the Mobil was 5 l of semi synth
And fags are ?4.5 (£3) per pack now... :-(
Still, had a great weekend at le Mans watching the LM pre-qualifying, which included a few chats with Johnny Herbert and Alan McNish :-)
Has anyone experience of the Grand Espace 2.2 Dci, preferably automatic? Considering one to replace a Galaxy. Thanks Read more
dodo - interesting question as I currently have a Galaxy TDI and when I have some money (hah! that'll be the day) I would contemplate replacing it with something like the Espace. Currently none of the other full-size MPVs appeal to me but the Espace offers the advantage of a diesel auto, and along with the Sharalaxy trio appear to be the only choices for diesel autos (my present Gal is a manual). I had a look at an Espace in my local dealer a couple of weeks ago and definitely prefer the slimmer front pillars which give a much better, safer forward view. The Espace's floor pan also seemed higher making the cabin height appear to be less thanthe Galaxy's. But the Espace does not come with front parking sensors and doesn't offer a cassette player even at its huge list price of nearly 30 grand! Not sure that the soft-touch plastics will resist children's abuse as well as the Galaxy's. Does anyone know if the current Espace engines are prone to the crankshaft thrust washer failure that apparently aflicts the previous generation Espaces???
hope somebody can help
I have a 1993 audi 80 which has done over 170K. I have found the minor servicing has now begun to get expensive especially when they probably only change the oil. I am wondering if changing the engine oil is a DIY job and relatively simple. I have changed spaerk plugs and headlamps bulbs in the past, so I am hoping to be able to do this.also my car seems to have a protective cover(dust cover) underneath the engine compartment whch I am unclear as to how to remove.I understand that this cover(which cover the entire engine compartment underneath) will have to removed to change the engine oil.
any thoughts will be well appreciated.
many thanks
nand Read more
cat died of oil contamination?
For nearly 2 years I have had starting problems with my micra predominately when the engine is warmed up, but also now not brilliant from cold. The engine turns over but does not fire and it seems like it is flooding. My Nissan dealer has tried replacing the coolant temperature sensor and putting on the modified wiring harness, but with no improvement! They now want to replace the air flow meter. However, do you think this would make any difference? Also does the throttle housing contain the air flow meter? The throttle housing was replaced last year by another garage (I bought a second hand throttle body after the engine starting losing power and jerking - it is running perfectly now). Am rapidly approaching nervous breakdown! They have quoted 120 pounds for new air flow meter but I don't want to bother if it won't improve the situation. Read more
Check the fuses in the little fusebox in front of the battery for corrosion.
Andrew
Simplicate and add lightness!!
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Rule no 3, never take the wife with you on first visit to car.