February 2004
Does a Pug 106 Look 2 (98) automatic rear brake ( Bendix ) adjuster also deal with hand brake cable length, I get the impression it does not as they refer to hand brake cable adjustment ever 12K miles. If so is it the rear or front heat shield that has to come off. Thanks Peter Read more
hi ive just got acorsa as a bangernomics ruanroaund
its in excellent condition though with only 34 k on clock for a k reg, what is the official timing belt mileage on a corsa
i dont wont to do it unless i have to .
regards
derek whittle Read more
I wouldn`t worry about official mileage the age says it all the cam belt and tensioner/plus water pump should be replaced.Age can be as big a problem as the neglect due to not changing on time.? No matter how good it is.
Anyone know of an insurer that would take into account the fact that my car, whilst not garaged, is parked overnight more than half a mile from the nearest metalled road? Thanks for any advice. Read more
Any suggestions why it will never change up to 3rd gear for a v reg mondeo. 1st to secod is Ok.
Box oil level is regularly topped up but the fluid does go down but there is no sign of a leak.
What should we look for and how expensive could this be? Read more
Steve
Try www.fordmondeo.org/problems.htm then click on Forums then Main index you can then go to Transmissions and read about the problems and rectifications. As i said the ATF loss may be a seperate fault. The VSS senses road speed and allows the box to change up/down depending on road speed if your box is not going into 3rd then this may be the cause. Have you had a look at the colour/ odour of the ATF fluid in the box should be Red and odourless. Hope this helps
OK, before anyone suggests it, i\'ve looked in the archives but can\'t find reference to my exact problem, although there are similar problems which may still be due to the same thing.
So, just to check, my 3 door 1996 306 XSi decides to lock itself randomly. Sometimes it will lock and unlock repeatedly for a few seconds. Looking at past posts, the most likely cuplrit seems to be broken wires between the A-pillar and door. But are there any other obvious things to check? Also, is it easy to check the wires? I don\'t really want to spend the weekend messing around with a multimeter, but neither do i want to pay £40 an hour to a mechanic just for him to confirm what i think is wrong. So any advice and experience is very gratefully recieved!
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Here\'s a thread with details of a possible bodge:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&t=14...7
Peugeot central locking and electrics in general have shortened my life. Try a forum search on \"Peugeot central locking\" - we are not alone, and you\'ll find LOTS of useful advice...
Is their only one \'locking\' hole inthe fly wheel of a 306XR (1.4 carb 1995)
I need to reset the timing the Mr Haynes can not help.
Cheers
H Read more
Hi,
I?m a 22 year old student and I have been given a 1985 C Nissan Cherry 1.3GS. The bodywork is in reasonable condition for the cars age ? especially as they were renowned for having bodywork trouble and the engine looks OK although there are a few little niggles:-
When started from cold (all electrical items off, in neutral, depress the clutch, pump the accelerator to the floor twice then turn the key without touching the accelerator) it fires after about three turns of the starter and it runs at a fast tickover on the auto choke and seems to tick over without any problem. If I then select Reverse and reverse a few yards as I apply the brakes and put my clutch in ready to do a hillstart in first and drive off the car stalls. I then just repeat the above (clutch in, turn the key without touching the accelerator) and it fires but then feels like its running on three cylinders so when I put my foot down slightly to increase the idle speed it starts spluttering and doesn?t seem to rev smoothly. I?ve only had the car for a couple of weeks and to be honest I?m scared to drive it in case it cuts out and won?t restart.
Also what petrol should I be using in it? I was told by the colleague of my Dad who bought it for his girlfriend to learn to drive in and she drove it a few times then decided she didn?t like it and then they split up and it had been sitting on his drive for 18 months bar a six month period when one of my Dad?s other colleagues borrowed it) to use Lead Replacement ? as the car was running on fumes when I was given it I put £20 of Lead Replacement in it and I?m wondering whether this is the problem as I thought that it would run on Unleaded.
We have a 3 acre farm in North Wales that we?re currently renovating and the car is only being used on our private land as I like driving and I did take driving lessons but decided that I didn?t want to carry on with them as I couldn?t see properly in the dark) and so give up now before danger struck and so it?s not as if the car is going to be used on the road.
If anyone could help me I?d be very grateful.
Keith
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Assuming you have checked for split vacuum hoses the trouble is
most likely caused by dirt/rust in the carb from the fuel tank going on my past expeience of owning these cars... also worth checking the carb fuel level using the 'window' in the carb body...if it's high/ low you need to bend the float seat.
After removing the carb, I would take off the top ..(have to be very careful not to damage the gasket it's very fragile)...then remove the various jets etc. and blow all the passages out with an airline.. It's very esy to lose the steel ball/spring etc. so care is needed.
The gauze filter behind the float needle valve needs checking as these can get totally choked up.. inlet manifold to head and carb to manifold bolts need to be checked for tightness to stop possible air leaks.
Best to buy a haynes manual if you don't have much experience with working on engines.
Unleaded petrol will be fine, allmost all Nissan/Datsun cars got hardened valve seats.
I have had a problem with my ABS light coming on for quite some time. I have had the sensors checked and cleaned but the problem remained. I eventually took it to my local VW dealer who diagnosed a hydraulic pump fault.
After having all the relays checked they have said that the controller is faulty only trouble is the part is £442.96 + VAT !!
Is it worth taking it down to a auto electrical place to try and remedy the fault? The fault seems to be the same as listed below which I have pasted onto this page and the solution but VW reckon new controller is the answer.
CAUSE: When the ABS cable loom is damp and the vehicle is operating at high engine speed leakage current
of the ignition coil gets into the suppressor of the pump sensor cable.
SOLUTION: Change the routing of the pump sensor cable. Route the ABS pump sensor cable and engine
speed sensor cable away from the ignition transformer to the arch by unwrapping the engine speed sensor
cable and pump sensor cable to the arch. Wrapping up the pump sensor cable without engine speed sensor.Rerouting the engine speed sensor cable on the bulkhead. Routing the pump sensor cable and fastening it with
existing cable binder to suspension strut housing.
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DougB checked with my local indy guy and he explained that pedal diagnoses would have showed up on the readout. Had this prob for a year now but it is slowly getting worse with the ABS light coming on.He recommended that I try for the controller. thanks for your input anyway. Marco
I have always liked the Rover 75, not just as a fine piece of engineering, but also as a well proportioned example of styling.
The same goes for the ZT, whose front end treatment was beautifully matched to the stance of the rest of the car. I came so close to buying a ZT-T 190 last year, whose handling and feel-good factor astonished me, and it was mainly space requirements and 30 years of good family experience with Volvos that put me in a V70 2.4T instead, despite the considerable extra cost.
What on earth have MG-Rover therefore been doing with the 2004 revisions?
The 75 now looks like it rolled off a Lancia production line (remember them?!), and the ZT now looks like a bland and heavy handed X-Power interpretation. Both have front end styling totally out of keeping with the rest of the shell.
It all begs the question though "Why didn't MG-Rover put the money towards something more vital, such as downpayment on a 25/45 replacement?!" Read more
That's hardly difficult now, is it....
Interesting forum!
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Thanks 659FBE. When you say under the hand brake lever can you give me more information, when I looked on Sunday underneath the handbrake was all covered by heat sheild. Thanks Peter