September 2003

none

I know that hydraulic valve lifters can be a bit noisy on startup. Can they be quiet on startup and become noisy when warmed up? (VW engine). Read more

ka razy

Would agree with the last comment, that main dealers seem to totally rely on what there computers say,having has that experience recently.Saying that it does seem to vary from garage to garage,which alone is annoying.Ones that do give a pink fluffy dice do exist as I found out(thankfully !)Oh for a mk1 Ford escort again!

PoloGirl

Got my insurance renewal through on Friday. It runs out on the 28th. Last year's was £700 fully comp, this year is £1350! Upon questioning it, it appears that both collisions are still "open" on my insurance company's files and these have bumped my premium right up.

The one in March I didn't even use my insurance for as it was a straight "he drove in the back of me" thing, and I claimed off his insurance using one of those companies that help you do that (not sure if I can name them).

The accident in August, the other driver admitted full liability for, but it is still being sorted as the repair was well below standard.

I spoke to the Brokers today and they suggested I talk to the insurer and try and get them to close the files, but after keeping me on hold for 15 minutes I got a recorded message saying the office was now closed. So I've written them a stiff letter which should get there tomorrow.

The Brokers said my only option really is to pay the £1300 and get a refund when the insurer eventually do settle the claims, but there's no telling when that could be and I just can't afford that.

So...

Can I go to another insurer and just say I've had 2 non-fault accidents, or will they check with Link and see that the files are still open?

Can I force Link to give me back my 2 years no claims? What can I do?

Sorry to keep going on about this, but at the moment I feel like giving Polo away to a good cause and getting a bike!

Thanks Read more

Altea Ego

Given the cost of achieving a, lets say 10grand in surgeons fees, it would take you a very long time to recoup the savings.......

Gazza

Dear all,

Further to my last post,

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=14666

I have finally bought a helmet for track-day use in last weeknd Infinity\'s sales. I got a new FM Radikal in size 56 for 50 pounds. Here comes the questions.

1. It achieves ACU Gold standard. He also told me it is for competition use according to the EU code. What is the ACU standards and the EU code? I am only familiar with BSI Type A & B standard.
2. Is 50 pounds about right? He said the helmet cost 200 pounds before the sale.

I am thinking of buying a de-restricted 125 as I am living in London now (Just started work last Monday). I have not ridden since I was 19 in 1999, when I had a Honda NSR-125-R, bought in 1997. What should I buy now? I want a sporty 125, I am thinking of spending upto 2000 pounds on a 1-2 years old, nearly-new bike. I have the Honda NSR-125-RR or Aprilia RS125 in mind. Which one should I choose? Any other option?

Thanks,
Garrison Read more

apm

Top vents are cool (in both senses!), and removable liners are good, as the interior can get a bit smelly after a hot summer of use- sounds like a good lid.

As Gareth says, a tuned 125 will be pretty unforgiving (with a very narrow power band), and quite tricky to ride on normal roads. they also tend to blow up alot (rebuilds every 10,000 miles or less are pretty much the norm).
More torque from a 50+bhp 4 stroke would actually be a better proposition, especially in London. Something like a Diversion or a CB500 might be a good start, although a bit dull! When I came back to biking in 1999 (after an 8 year break), I bought a Ducati Monster 600 (not great- heavy clutch, snatchy power delivery, horrible gearbox!), but didn't find it too tricky (and looked great). You do get used to the power very quickly. You could go straight to a CBR600 or R6, but these are very quick (over 100bhp IIRC). Then again, even a Fazer has nearly this! Really depends on what you'll use it for, and what your insurance is like (check this FIRST).

Whatever you get, enjoy it! As has oft been repeated, it's not what you ride, it's THAT you ride.

;-)

Alex.
--
Dr Alex Mears
Seat Leon Cupra
If you are in a hole stop digging...unless
you are a miner.

drbe

Another accident on the M25 today, near Junction 27. The anti-clockwise carrigeway was completely closed. The injured were removed by the air ambulance - and?

I have read that on a proportion of jobs (accidents) the air ambulance MUST be used, presumably to justify its existence. This coupled with the fact that the helicopter has to land on the road, causes extra delays. Are there any locations at which it is impossible to use the road ambulance?

Is it the case that a few egos have to be massaged - "we are more important/wealthy than you, we have an air ambulance in our area"

I have heard that frequently a road ambulance is in the vicinity, but it cannot be used because "that is an air ambulance job" as a consequence the injured are slower getting to hospital and motorists are delayed more.

Why does the media report it as "the injured HAD to be taken to hospital by air ambulance". They didn't HAVE to be taken by helicopter, someone decided that they would.

Ooh I feel much better now.

Don drbe Read more

puntoo

I have seen the Essex air ambulance land three times in total all for spinal injuries

One was a small boy falling out of a tree the other two where motorcycle accidents. There are so many charity events for the essex air ambulance that I assume it is entirly funded from donations.

I always thought they used them for spinal type unjuries as the ride would be smoother/quicker by helicopter.

Chicken Madras

Hi,

I've been driving since 1985 and am having a mid-life crisis regarding my driving style.

What I'd value your opinions on is this: Is it more economical to accelerate slowly and gently, or accelerate more quickly (not in a boy-racer, tyre squealing style of course) to reach your desired speed? I appreciate that it depends on a multitude of factors, but generally what does everyone think?

Also, I rarely drive with a front seat passenger and was appalled recently to see a friend I gave a lift to pitching back and forth in the passenger seat when I was changing up the gears. How do you change gear smoothly? I seem to either slip the clutch too much ("comfort" mode..) or snatch it ("sport" mode!). I never notice any movement because I'm holding onto the steering wheel. God help me if I'd got a tank of red water on the roof as in Britain's Worst Driver..!

All comments gratefully received,

Regards,
CM Read more

Vagelis

Hi CM,

My opinions:

Re economical acceleration: My experience says use your engine's torque, as rightly noted by others. This is the rev range where your engine accelerates most efficiently, ie burning less fuel. For example, accelerate from 50 to 70 with 4th instead of 5th. You will find out that you can achieve swift acceleration without "flooring" it.

Re gear changes: During a gear change the engine revs fall. Each engine lets its revs fall at a different rate. Each gear change upwards means the revs will need to fall by roughly 1000 ~ 1500rpm. Observe the time your engine needs to lower its revs by such an amount, and you have the time-window in which you should perform your gear changes. Do that, and when you re-engage the clutch the engine revs will be about those needed for your selected gear and speed.

For gear-down changes I use the following method: When pressing the clutch, right at the point where it's starting to disengage, I push the acceleration pedal to raise the revs by roughly 1500rpm. That way I get faster and smoother changes.

Some people might say that this is a very complicated way of doing a very simple thing like a gear change. Well, that's me ;-)

Vagelis.

Typo

I've got a 7 year old A4 2.8 (V6 30V). I'm looking for a competent garage to perform an 80k mile service (includes cam belt change). Any recommendations, preferably in East Anglia?

I used to use our local franchised dealer but always felt they were stitching me up. Not only were they expensive but I caught them charging for things they hadn't done and they failed to complete even basic tasks (eg oil change) competently. I moved to a non-franchised Audi specialist (where you actually get to talk to the man with the greasy hands), but they have been sold and no longer specialse in Audi.
Read more

lordwoody

If you're anywhere near Ipswich I can thoroughly recommend Richard Pipe Engineering-01473 610428. They service anything from a Lotus to a lawnmower, are 100% trustworthy , are extremely pleasant and helpful. They used to advertise that they specialised in Swedish and German cars and whatever they've done for me has been excellent.

a303

I'm considering buying a nearly-new Focus, either Zetec or LX. I'm keen that it should be fitted with ABS, but I'm unclear when this became standard fit...

I have a post-facelift brochure which my friendly local Ford dealer gave me last month, which says that only Ghia models have ABS as standard.

However, I also understand from Ford's website and what the salesman said that all models now have it fitted as standard.

Does anyone know:
1. When Ford first included it as standard.
2. How I can tell whether a car is fitted with it - other than attempting an emergency stop!

Thanks.
Read more

DavidHM

Jan/Feb 2003 on, so if it's on an 03 plate there's a pretty good chance that it has ABS.

2.0 models (at least the Ghias and I think the Zetecs) have always had it, as have TDCi 115 Ghias. Not sure about other TDCi 115s; obviously the ST170 has it. TDCi 100s almost certainly don't.

If you want to check without getting the keys for the car, anything with rear discs has ABS.

top turkey

Thanks for the replies a few weeks ago about my post about purchasing a W reg Vectra 1.8SXi 16v.

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=15941 for anyone that\'s interested.

Collected it on Friday and thought you may like an update.

Compared to cars that I have driven before (Uno, Cavalier, Fiesta, Astra) it really is the best so far. The seats are really comfy for my back, having felt really uncomfortable in the Astra. Is superb on the motorway and relatively quiet in the cabin even when doing 75 ish. Has lots of pull from 60 too.

I don\'t think that it deserves the negative press and publicity that the car has attracted, but perhaps I would have a different view if I came from a background of driving BMWs, Mercs, Lexus etc....

Which leads to the question..... isn\'t it all relative?

Cheers.

TT. Read more

T Lucas

I think that sums the Vectra up,its not a bad car,but compared to its rivals it is a best very average.
I rented a Vectra 2.2 Elegance in August,only did about 400 miles and was really quite underwhelmed with it.
Good points,Very quite at cruising speeds.
Cold a/c.
Lots of interior storage areas.
Reasonable interior space.
Err,thats about it.
Not so good,Boomy engine under acceleration.
No climate control.
Boot was too big,could have used space inside car.
Interior colours/design very grey and uninspiring.
Those self cancelling indicators.
Poor handling/control on bumpy,windy roads.
Confusing remote locking system.
None of the above makes it a bad car,but would you buy one new,especially with Vauxhall dealers record,and especially when compared with rivals.
Just a very average car.


helendha

I have a 1997 Renault Megane hatchback - vgc, full service history, two careful lady owners (of whom I am the second). On Saturday evening, when I opened the boot to put my bag inside, the boot lid came off both its hinges, clobbering me on the head on its way down and coming to rest on the rear bumper. Both hinge pins have sheared completely off, and as the boot has twisted round on its way down, there's a considerable amount of damage (both paint damage, a big dent and general twisting of the frame) to the boot lid.

I'm not best pleased, as you can imagine. The car is used for domestic purposes only, and the boot is rarely used at all. As far as I am concerned, there is no way that this is 'normal wear and tear' - in any case, the mechanic I took it to this morning was utterly amazed and said he'd never known this to happen before, even to far older cars.

Suffice to say, this is going to cost me a large sum of money to get fixed - and I haven't even enquired about the cost of having the bodywork repaired yet. I feel that this is down to shoddy workmanship, and I feel inclined to complain direct to Renault. However, I can't seem to find a UK address to write to to register my complaint - their website has an email form to fill in (which I'm not happy with - I want to send a registered letter), or an address in France. Anyone have any ideas where I can get a UK address form?
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Ivor E Tower

(1) My Renault problem wasn't seized hinges.
(2) Fitness for purpose does come into it - but this will assume that there is a material or manufacturing defect which could be very difficult to establish. You may have to prove that the hinges have been properly lubricated on a regular basis. Also you would have to be certain that there were no warning signs indicating failure - eg no squeaks, no increase in the amount of effort needed to close/open the boot.

Could be tricky....

apm

Friend of mine is being given his pa-in-law's old V6 probe (1995 I think), which has a knackered head (probable the cam belt went- not sure). Question is, how difficult is an engine swap on one of these (his preferred route, as opposed to headswapping)? Anyone tackled similar? He's a pretty good mechanic, but doesn't have a load of time or cash. Should he do this, have it done by someone else, or tell pa-in-law to scrap the car? Also, is there a ready(ish) supply of the Mazda V6 motor? Finally, is this car as girly as the NX100 thread over on discussion suggests?!

Ta in advance!
--
Dr Alex Mears
Seat Leon Cupra
If you are in a hole stop digging...unless
you are a miner. Read more

Robin the Technician

Hi Mark,
The car is most definitely worth repairing!!! A good condition model is worth circa 2k and they do sell despite being a gas guzzler. I drove my son's for a road test after doing a minor repair to it and its nice to drive and the power under the right foot is VERY pleasant. I'm sure if you don't want it someone out there will take it away for you- as I said, its worth the effort to repair. If you need any advice, feel free to ask and if I can help, I will.


--
These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...