June 2003
I need a quick car and have up to £15,000 to spend. Ideally, this one should be able to last me for 3-5 years, so it needs to be solid and reliable (I just got rid of an Alfa 156 - eeuggh!)
I made my mind up on a nearly new Civic Type-R with aircon from a broker. Then I started wondering if the lack of toys and comfort would begin to grate after a while. I've half considered a Type-S - £3,000 cheaper, group 11 insurance, 5 doors and still reasonably quick. But it's not the same....
Other cars I've considered have been the Leon Cupra - rejected due to the new model coming out later this year which is gorgeous and dates the current model (also some worries about the reliability of the 1.8 20V engine). Various Golfs such as the 1.8T GTi or the V5 - overpriced and a bit dated. MR2, but I'd be laughed at by my S2000 wielding mates. Celica, but it's not fast enough for what it is supposed to be.
Now I'm thinking 2-3 year old BMW 323i or 328i from Great Trade Centre - still in warranty so less worry about something going wrong(?) or 3-4 year old from BMW Approved. But then I started thinking about what it might be worth in 3 years and figured £7,000 - £8,000 compared to the Type-R which might retain £10,000.
Can any readers help shift my indecision by suggesting anything I've missed, by pointing out any inaccuracies in my thoughts! Read more
need advice on my A6 2.4 auto 1997 . about 2 months ago it had to taken to a audi dealer as it would not start after left unused for 2 weeks.not battery problem.the dealer said there was fuel flooding and changed all sparks and add fuel treatment. start ok since but had trouble with the engine juddering at idle espescially when climate control on and using the brakes. brought it back to dealer and they changed a faulty spark lead. some improvment but still not completely gone. third time they diagnosed a faulty valve timer and changed it at total of £370!!!and guess what ? yup ! made absolutely no difference. interestingly whenthe engine is cold it runs smooth but starts after driving a few minutes and also after awhile some noticeable judder when accelerating as well though not as bad as idle .any idea before it has to go back to that dealer ...i amfast losing faith and money..incidently as they repalced a nonfaulty component are they obliged to omit the charge for further work? note prior to this episode the engine was smooth as silk!
thanks
ayoi Read more
A close inspection of all the vacuum pipes is required. I suspect a leak. Regards Peter
I have a Focus 1.8 TDDI which has developed an intermittant misfire. Its as if fuel has suddenly stopped getting to the engine for a brief second.
The problem is that it may only do it once throughout the entire day. (the problem occurred 4 days ago.)
It seems that it is more likely to do it when accelerating. It does it when the engine is hot or cold but has never done it when just idling.
I have checked the fuel pipes incase it could be an air leak and changed the fuel filter. I am now waiting for the fuel tank to run low incase it is contaminated fuel which I purchased from a different forecourt to my usual, as I was on holiday at the time.
If replacing the fuel does not solve the problem then I can only think that it is a problem with one of the sensors to the ECU or the ECU itself.
Has anyone else had this type of problem or could throw some light onto what the cause my be. Thanks. Read more
I ran the fuel tank down to nearly empty and then refilled it. My car has now been running for a week without any misfire. I can only assume that I must have filled up with some contaminated diesel. I would have thought that in this day and age that well established forecourts would be able to store their fuel without it getting contaminated. Thanks to everyone who suggested an answer to what the problem may have been.
Servicing my 1998 Mondeo 1.8LX today and noticed a clunk coming from the air compressor (according to my Haynes manual). Every 2 or 3 minutes the unit clunks and the drive wheel stops driving the unit.
I'm not sure whether this is normal - it has probably been doing it for ages and I've only noticed today because I've been giving my car more attention than usual.
All advice appreciated.
Read more
Ignorance on my part - only ever had climate control!
Hi,
Im looking into adding turbo to a ford fiesta 1.8LX diesel, hopefully doing it myself if its a reasonable project.
Just looking for some advice on it, i.e what parts do you need, could you find most parts at the breakers, is it a DIY job etc..
?
Any info, im sure, would help ! Read more
John - Please don't do it!
Save your pennies and buy a Peugeot 306 TD or similar - a far better bet than the Festa ;-)
Any Advice Please?
I have recently purchased the picasso 2.0 hdi which has covered about 3,000 miles.
I have never owned a diesel before and have noticed that after being on a run and while waiting at some lights or at a roundabout, the engine seems to judder intermitantly at tickover almost like a single miss-fire on a petrol engine, you can feel the wobble through the cabin on what is usually a very smooth performer with little vibration.
Could any of you diesel experts point me in the right direction as to what i should be asking the dealer to look for, what things could cause this imbalance on a new engine.
Cheers. Read more
The common rail does indeed run at high pressure. Current common rail pressure is around 1650 bar. Target is 2100 bar IIRC. VW's unit injector system (PD) uses a low pressure feed and a cam at each injector hikes the pressure up - this is why they need such a special oil, as the shear on this cam is extreme.
RichardW
Hi All
My dad has a 1994 L reg Granada Auto. Recently when on a long run at motorway speeds, it starts out fine, but, after a while it looses its power. No one can find anything wrong at the time and after a while, it starts and then drives ok. It seems to drive around town with no probs. I`m wondering if part of the ignition circuit is breaking down under load.
Hope someone can help.
Thanks
jms Read more
Sounds like a fuel starvation problem.
When was the last time the fuel and air filter was changed?
When it happens next time, remove the fuel filler cap and see if you get an rush of air into the tank. If you do, then the tank venting system is blocked.
Can only find it available here...
www.iauto.co.uk/pages/alloy_wheel.htm
..but it's expensive at £14 and £7 delivery for just 500ml. Is it available elsewhere? If it's not officially imported, why not, if it's so good?
I'm looking for a non-acid based wheel cleaner. The only alternative to P21S I can find is Muc-Off, but it's very cheap, so is it any good? Can't find any reviews/opinions.
Read more
How about TurtleWax wheel cleaner (foam version) that I used yesterday. Worked well. Is it acidic, though? If it is I will apply wax to wheels after next clean.
Hi to forum, my '96 Mondeo 2.0L power steering pump appears to have failed. It has been playing up over last week and now the bearing is making one hell of a noise all the time but even louder when the steering wheel is turned. Having recovered from shock of being told the part is £250+VAT from Ford and £185 from a local motor factors I have tracked a pump down at a local Ford Breaker for £30. Problem is he only has a 1.8L pump in but he has said it should be the same pump. They do look alike and have same mounts - any advice as to compatability would be appreciated. Also how difficult is the swap?. Read more
Update - Steering pump not defective - just noticed that the steering pump oil cooler was leaking due to hole (corrosion). Strangely little oil lost - followed Haynes Manual advice, topped up bottle and bled system and noise disappeared. New oil cooler £44 at local Ford dealer just fitted - takes about an hour (bit messy). Fingers crossed. Thanks.
A friend just bought a Mini Cooper 500 LE, two years old, one of the last of the old ones, from a specialist, for use as a fun second car.
He paid £8495 but got a very, very generous trade in on his M plate Cooper - he actually made a profit of about £1500 (!) over the year he had it, which included a fairly thorough restoration.
However, after getting it home and changing the plugs and oil, he found that it was still running a little rougher than he was expecting. It also ran a bit hot. A diagnostic check at Rover found nothing and even a new temperature sensor didn't cure the problem.
Then he took it to a specialist for rolling road analysis. Turns out the engine has been tuned with high lift cams, on top of the stainless steel exhaust he put on. With the injection timing sorted, the A series now develops ~110 bhp and has a massive boost from 2800 rpm on. The specialist insurer doesn't seem to mind either - so it'll be on with an uprated air filter next.
Woohoo! And a power to weight ratio of something like 160 bhp per tonne, should he wish to frighten any new shape Cooper S he might encouter. Read more
He He, now that would be something I'd pay to see. Old Cooper v bloaty new one.
Browse
Don't worry about reliability on a Scooby. The big problem is that, even from a supermarket, a new shape is not a £15k car but you will be on very friendly terms with the cute girl in the filling station who sells donuts. I think routine maintenance is a bit on the high side too - frequent and expensive.
A Leon R, for that matter, isn't a £15k car but they can be had for £15819 from www.ukcarbroker.co.uk or about £500 more than a discounted price for a Civic.