June 2003
Friend is buying a new Golf from broker. Is there a easy way of telling if it is a genuine UK spec car as opposed to an import? Can you tell from VIN? Read more
For your possible interest:
The following infuriated me, until I discovered the 'cure':
Problem
When listening to a FM station with Traffic Program (TP) selected, if I tried to change the station by pressing one of the presets, the radio displayed 87.5 and locked up. I had to press the FM button back to the desired fm band, then the desired preset, followed by the TP button.
When TP was not active, the presets worked immediately.
Cure:
When you set the preset, the TP option should already be set to avoid the above problem. (ie, above problem occurs if preset is set when TP not active)
This is on a 51 plate Golf.
Does anyone know how to change the steering wheel up/down controls to go to the next preset, as opposed to the current next
station? (Laguna II has (poorly documented) option of both methods) Read more
No help I'm afraid.
I also tried to find out how change the function of the Gamma radio steering wheel controls to select the next preset on my Passat. VW dealer answers included "never been asked that before, but I'll find out" (never did!), "It can't be done", "read the instruction book, it tells you there" (it doesn't!)
I would love to find out as the present setup is useless.
Hi
My mum had a 2 litre sohc pinto GL
she sold it in 1997
How can i find out about its whereabouts as i want the car back
Regards
J Stephenson Read more
Works well that link!
Tried a couple of my old cars - then even tried a car my dad had in 1976 - and that worked too!
Hi all ? the hatchback on my 95 sunny has at some point been removed and gaps up sufficiently to lock although there is insufficient movement in the lock striker to realign it satisfactorily without it clunking on closing. Attempted to realign the boot hinges yesterday but the bolts are seriously unwilling to budge either way (painted over etc - for peace of mind they should be going anticlockwise right?!?!
I'd be grateful for any tips for realigning it without wasting lots of time making minor adjustments on the hinges?
Thanks in advance
S Read more
Sorry, HJ.
Didn't realise adding the {P} caused you a lot of extra work.
I wasn't taking the 'P', honest :-)
I'd like to take the opportunity to say thanks for a great site, I realise it must take a lot of time and effort but it really is appreciated.
Cockle Read more
In case people don't realise..
Every change in username, or new member, causes an e-mail to be sent. This has been done due to an unfortunate rash of obscene and unsuitable usernames we had a while ago.
Whilst Martyn was here they were going to him and he forwarded any issues to me. Now that Martyn has gone then all of the admin e-mails go to HJ.
Occasional change of usernames is fine, and to be expected, and I don't think HJ is arguing with those at all. However, mass changes by a number of people cause a nightmare amount of extra e-mail to be dealt with.
HJ prides himself on dealing with all his e-mail himself and doing it quickly. At the moment I'm afraid we're driving him nuts.
So, if we could just avoid any large amount of changes that would help a lot.
Thanks,
Mark.
Good Morning,
Now that my shiny Leon Cupra has arrived, I need to sell my Vauxhall Cavalier. I am keen to move it quickly. Given the details below, what should I pitch it at to generate interest and aim to actually get for it?
1995 (June 'M' Reg) Cavalier CDX V6.
95k miles. FSH, Full yr MOT and taxed until November.
Satin red, black leather with aircon. Electric everything and all works. No rust.
Generally good nick, sluggish recently and I suspect it needs new leads and DIS-pack. Cambelt last changed in Dec '99 at 69k miles. So it's due replacement in <10k miles or six months. Traction control has never worked.
Factoring in these costs for a prospective buyer and given that I want it to go, what should I pitch it at.
Any figures received gratefully.
Thanks very much
from Jason
Read more
Cavaliers are waning in popularity rapidly now, if you want it gone I'd say £1095 and expect to take a grand for it, even though it is a V6. IMO it is very difficult to get a good price for a car which was built shortly before the model went out of production, because anyone in the market for such a car could pay a bit more and get the model that replaced it (Vectra in this case, if you see what I mean).
An electrical fault on my 740 is annoying me. These cars have a bulb failure warning light which is quite useful in normal circumstances. However, when I apply the brakes the light comes on but does not extinguish when the brakes are released. After around 5 minutes of no braking the light goes out. All the brake bulbs are new, contacts seem clean.
Comments much appreciated. Thanks. Read more
Thank you all for your suggestions.
I eventually traced the fault to an ill fitting front N/S day running light bulb holder. The locating lugs had sheared allowing the bulb to rattle around too much. A S/H holder was aquired and fitted. I did buy a set of bulbs of the same type and fit them to be on the safe side. All's well now.
Thanks again.
Just read on a US website about a few accidents where cars were wrecked after they hydroplaned in rain while under cruise control - one quoted a highway patrol officer saying that a warning should be put on the sun visor beside the warning about air bags.
Could this only happen in America?
Anyone have any experience of this?
Matt35. Read more
TP,
Systems such as 'Distronic' - Mercedes Benz and similar are quite common on top end cars.
I had a Jag XKR driver on IAM training which had this 2 years ago - had him switch it off when I was Observing though.
I suppose it has its advantages but it smacked of 'you have a 5 star safety rating so you can have a snooze at the wheel'.
Matt35.
Got some autosol polish stain on the door panel fabric.
How to remove without fading or deteriote the fabric. Read more
Maru,
Have a search under 'detailing' on; forums1.roadfly.org/jaguar/forums/detailing/
Matt35.
PS - 3 posts today, must go and have a lie down.
A local independent dealer is offering a 1998 323 1.5 GLX F for £3795.
I've had a quick look over the car and the bodywork appears to be in great nick, so I may take a test drive.
Are there any problems with this model that I should look out for? eg any history of grey imports etc?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Read more
Have struck a deal with another dealer for a 1998 323 1.5 LXi, 41k miles; £2700 with my 1993 1.6LX Mondeo thrown in, with the proviso that a few scrapes on the passenger & nearside rear doors of the Mazda are rendered invisible.
Autotrader seems to suggest that this is not a bad deal. I hope I'm right!
Browse
I there are two questions here...
First how to tell if its an import. When I imported my Golf the V5 came through as 'New at First Registration'. There is nothing 'obvious' on the V5 which says that the car is an import. The only way you can tell if the car is an import is by looking at the dealer stamp on the PDI page of the service booklet. Also you'll have to get your car registered on the VW UK database for warranty purposes - at this point VW UK will probably know your car is an import by crosschecking the VIN with their worlwide database or by the fact that you are ringing up to do it yourself instead of a UK dealer doing so when he PDIs the car.
As to the UK spec question the only thing you can do is to get a UK brochure and check that the spec matches the purchase order specification you've got from the broker. When you get the car check that it has all the toys mentioned in the brochure.
Hope this helps.
ucjtckc