April 2003

charlie_boy

I have a 1999 'T' Reg. 1.8 16v Laguna.

The electric window on the passenger side doesn't work. Both switches (driver and passenger)will not make the window work. Before it stopped working, the window opened and closed at a snails pace, thus the assumption of the motor being knackered rather than both switches.

I have been quoted 85 quid + vat for new one from Renault.
And been quoted 42 quid + vat from a scrap yard.
Parts only.

Which one would you go for. And are they easy to fit. Removing the door panel and accessability a problem? Is it a DIY job or not. Please help. Read more

AR-CoolC

Which one would you go for. And are they easy to fit. Removing the door panel and accessability a problem? Is it a DIY job or not. Please help.

It depends how you define DIY, if your the sort of person that "knows his way around a tool kit" I would think you could change it over no problem, just bearing in mind that all the screws holding the door card in place are Torx. T30 behind inner relaese handle, T30 behind cover on inner pull handle and T25's for the speaker and along the bottom of the card.
once your inside the door their is not a lot of room but with a bit of thinking and jiggling (technical term only used in the trade) the mechanism will come out.

Or if you ring your local Autoglass and speak to them I'm sure they will sort you out.

Question Volvo Electrics
Maz

A couple of weeks ago I bought my girlf an obviously much-loved 1988 Volvo 340 at auction.

On driving it home, electrical gremlins took root when the fan was turned to setting 3. Turning the fan to a lower setting made everything return to normal.

When I tried to install a stereo the other day, they took root permanently, disbling central locking, clock, and most of the dashboard (rev counter, LED display, petrol gauge).

I've checked the fuses and there are no wires obviously loose. i must admit electrics are not my strong point and would appreciate any help available. Read more

Sparrow

My daughter runs a 1989 Corolla, a 1.6 twin cam carb engine. Nothing special, in fact it drives rather nastily, however she's just got away with snapping the timing belt.

Firth thing the car started running rough, lots of misfire. Spark and fuel seemed OK so garage looked at it. Said the ignition timing was out so readjusted it. Car seemed OK but two weeks later it dies when going down the A303. Fortunately she managed to get it to the nearside and the AA kindly brought it home. The timing belt had snapped, however the repair bill was £91! Apparently this engine does not automatically smash pistons into valves and so write off engines. Is Toyota being clever here or is this just luck of the draw? Any advice on choosing a car with similar bombproofness?

By the way the garage that did the repair said that the first garage should have twigged timing belt when the ignition timing needed resetting. Must have "jumped a tooth" I guess. Also, Toyota say replace timing belt at 60K miles, this car had it done at 60K and now has done 115K.

Daughter is over the moon as she is a poor student and could not afford a replacement car.

Read more

Maz

Thanks for clarifying that Mr Cabsman.

Altea Ego

seen on a dealers web site

MORRIS MARINA 1300cc, genuine 35000 miles, truly remarkable condition inside and out, drives like new, previously supplied by us, MoT 14/10/2002. £495


"drives like new" - is that a recomendation?
Read more

J500ANT

Should it not read "Drives like new, but otherwise ok" ??

Tony

willist2

I've recently been having problems starting my car which I believe to be due to air getting into the fuel system. The AA man who came out after I'd worn the battery down trying to start it remarked that there was no fuel in the filter and so he had to prime it.
On priming it myself I notice that as soon as I stop pressing the priming bulb I see air being drawn back into the filter (at the outlet the other side of the bulb).
Am I correct in assuming there should be no air in the system at all? If so are there any common areas where the air may be getting in?
Thanks for any help. Read more

OldOiler

Having had both types (400 & 220sdi)with no apparent problems, have you changed the fuel filler cap - I know it a long shot but it can screw up the fuel flow.

Our 19 ltr diesel engines at work suffer from fuel stavation - but that is down to fuel pump / injector design - supose you have checked the injector pump output??
Good luck anyway
K2

Rojer

Where can I get my hands on a detailed servicing schedule for a 1996 W140 Mercedes S280 S-Class?

I want to know what it is that Mercedes charges (up to) £770 pounds for!


rojer@lycos.co.uk
Astra, Renault 18, Renault 25 TXi, Astra Est, Passat Est, Mercedes 190E, Mercedes Read more

Rojer

Sorry, Aprillia, I've seen your anser on the QXR oil on the other discussion. Thank-you!

How do you know all these things?

;)

Honda CB500


rojer@lycos.co.uk
Astra, Renault 18, Renault 25 TXi, Astra Est, Passat Est, Mercedes 190E, Mercedes

hedge

Yes, I know it's not a car! It's a motorhome & some of you guys may have tinkered with 'em..... 1997, rear disc brakes, & I am assuming "drum in hat" for the handbrake? What is the correct way to strip it all down? The n/s handbrake does not work, & it's not the cable-for once.
OR, dare I ask: is there a truck site to equal this mighty affair?!
Many thanks

Hedge Read more

maru

Hi

Accidentally opened the front bonnet while the wiper is lifted up. Got a 3/4inch scratch at the edge of the bonnet. Can see the grey coat. Will it rust?


Help needed Read more

maru

Thanks Dave,

the colour blends it quite well, i got a silver paint and the colour is closed to the primer. cool.

kal

Does any body have an idea of the reliability - so far - of the new shape Vectra from Vauxhall, old model judging from these pages is poor. Read more

Wee Willie Winkie

You all seem like a clued up bunch, so I thought I'd ask your advice....

I own a 2001 406 HDi (lucky me!). The service intervals are every 12k - which seems the norm for a diesel now. I travel a far distance every day, which probably equates to 25k a year. Am I okay just sticking to the servce schedule, or would my car benefit from a bit of tlc, in the form of an oil and filter change every 6k or so? Is there anything else I need to do, apart from changing the car, to help me in my quest for a form of transport that never fails me?

Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Read more

M.M

12K is *already* an extended interval beyond the ideal 6K. However as you are doing longer journeys and 25K/yr then your 12K at least equates to fresh oil/filter each 6 months.

That is the minimum I would advise, if it were my own though I'd still change the oil and filter every 6K.... but my annual mileage is much lower.

I've a diesel here this week with a 6K service interval where the owner has *stretched* it to at least 9K and often nearer 13K. It also arrived very low on oil.No wonder it is one of the roughest examples I've seen for a while of that particular engine and it's only done 79K!

Wonder what he'll think if it needs a £1800 exchange unit by 100K? And that leads me to another thread...

MM