March 2003
I am shortley to move offices - closer to London.
The Journey time will increase by some 30mins but distance only 5 miles. ie heavy congestion on M/A40.
I have an option to move to alternative office with travel time of extra 20mins but extra 20 miles.
Any thoughts on relative impact on car/engine wear & Tear.
Thanks
Prelude Read more
It used to be recommended that either the VIN or the vehicle registration number was etched on all glass (including headlights). Is this still so?
What are the pros and cons?
e.g.headlights are not always glass these days so I assume glass etching fluid won't work but do the professional outfits mark headlight?
If it is to be done what are readers experiences?
I assume the DIY kits are still available but are they as simple and foolproof as the label will suggest?
If it is done by the "experts" what is the cost and the who is recommended? Read more
If you're in the AA you can get this done free at Autoglass but they only do the windows, no mirrors lights etc and it's not that obvious. When I had mine done I wasn't really impressed but at least it's done to some extent.
I am on the lookout for a Rover 218 Turbo Diesel on a late K - N reg, looking to pay not much more than £900, I would appreciate any comments, good or bad, and things to look out for. Thanks in advance. Read more
Thanks for that VB, but I really do have to stick very strictly to £900 max.
Is there a quick rule of thumb formula for working out when it becomes more economic to go for a specific type of car. (Thinking high mileage)
Diesels cost more, but do they depreciate less?
Some petrol engines are very fuel efficient and not that far away from diesels.
Will dual fuel always be as cheap as it is now and how much do they depreciate compared to the other two?
Are the Whatcar depreciation tables accurate?
I am somewhat dewildered by the choices available these days and trying to narrow it down! Read more
I suppose if you are travelling into London's congestion charge zone on a daily basis LPG is the way to go. Personally I rarely go to London so I'll stick with my diesel for now. However I am extremely tempted by Volvo's new V70R which is out in the late spring!!!
Must book up a test drive.
Cheers
VD5D or maybe V70R_Dude?
Managed to get hold of a Diamondbrite paintwork treatment pack and would like to apply it but in the instructions it keeps saying only to be installed by a profesional.
When you buy a new car this treatment is offered to you for between £300 and £400 but I can\'t understand why.
It seems a fairly simple job of putting the different stuff on the paintwork so I was wondering if anyone has done this treatment and has any tips or advice.
You can find out about the stuff at www.jewelultra.com sorry I don\'t know how to put in an automatic link. Help on this would also be appreciated.
Many thanks
I fixed your link. simply make sure you include the entire URL (which begins http) and then it will detect it automatically. M.Read more
sorry I don't know how to put in an automatic link.
Help on this would also be appreciated.
It's mentioned in Announcements.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=3&t=11...7
I have an Escort TD \'97 yr, which I was happily reving along in until it cut out. I have no fuel coming out of the pump and the timing belts seem to be fine, had the fuel cut-off solenoid checked...any ideas.
Its nice to have some idea.
Read more
I have a 6 month old Honda S2000 which cost me a fortune to buy and I will keep for a lifetime. The car has only covered 1800 miles since new and at most will not exceed 5000 miles a year.
The car , when used, is driven high into the rev limit.
Would it be sensible to have regular 6 monthly oil changes. Read more
Definitely don't ease up on the right foot too much see:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=11062
When my Honda Civic was new I followed the advice in the handbook
which recommended driving "normally" without overreving the engine for extended periods. They said an occasional burst of higher revs was OK. Talking to A Honda Civic Type-R owner he said he was using 1/2 litre of oil a week and this was considered to be normal by Honda. My humble bog standard Civic doesn't use any oil at all an I don't hang around.
I refer to my article - 'galaxy - notchy gearbox', July2002
I have now had it confirmed by a Ford main dealer that several people have commented on a 'crunch' on 1st to 2nd gear change when cold on their 6 speed VW gear box. Apparently it is to do with the lack of oil being sloshed around in the box until 'higher' revs have ben achieved for a mile or so thus reaching all parts of the gear box; ie after a couple of miles when the oil has circulated everything is fine.
Anything that can been done to rectify this 'fault'? - you must be joking! not a thing according to one main dealer workshop foreman. Not what I would expect form a £20k+ car.
For what it is worth, the way I manage to avoid the problem is to change gear a little slower than usual until the box has warmed up - rush the gear change before the at your peril!
Why is it that with all this modern technology, gear boxes have not improved over the years - so much for German engineering!
Anyone else with similar problems? if so I hope this puts your mind at rest that it is not you it is the vehicle.
I now rest my case as I nurse this, what otherwise is a brilliant motor, through a long and productive life.
Read more
If you are not already using it, change to fully synthetic gearbox oil such as 75w90 GL-4. Non-synthetic oil cold weather viscosity prevents synchros operating properly.
Last October my father in law purchased a Diesel Peugeot 206 from a Peugeot Dealership. The Car is a Y Reg and has done average sort of mileage. He noticed as soon as he took delivery of the car that a vibration can be heard from the alternator when the car is started from cold and only disappears after the car has heated up, or a load is put on the alternator (even when cold), e.g. he switches the lights on.
He has had it into the garage in question (whilst well within the 6 months warranty expiry date) but the garage say that they will not replace the alternator under the warranty with a new or reconditioned one unless the existing alternator packs in.
My thoughts are that this vibration should not be occurring and the garage should be obliged to investigate and fix the problem (i.e. the vibration), however I may be wrong.
Does anyone have any views on this or experienced anything similar? Many thnaks. Read more
If it's a Y plater with average mileage, shouldn't there be another year's transferrable manufacturer/dealer warranty on it?
I agree with Mark though. If it 'sort of' works, that's not nearly the same as saying that it does work, so they should replace it. I take it the dealer in question is either a Peugeot franchise or you've taken it to one for the work to be done?
My sister has bought a brand new Ford Ka from Motorpoint of Derby and is due to pick it up later this week. Now when she 'purchased' this car it wasn't actually 'in stock' but was on the list of cars due to arrive. So she had the choice of colours etc, and could therefore chose which one she wanted on the list. So thus when she goes later on this week with the cash in her hand it will be the first time she will actually see 'her' car. Now obviously before she hands over the money she needs to have a look round the car and check that it is how you would expect to find a new car, ie no dings, dents, scratches etc, but what else does she need to check before she parts with the cash?
Any advice or opinions are welcome. Read more
Nah, they've stopped the red key thing. Thankfully, they cost a fortune to replace.
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Move office.I hate jams. You,your car and pocket will be better off by doing this.The other option is to pedal if there is a route u can