I've only ever driven cars that have a sensible gear layout (Reverse down on the right)
The Toledo has one of those 'Press gearstick down and up to the left' layouts.
Vauxhalls have this layout too.
What is it about this design that makes reverse crunch?
Peugeot, various Fiestas, sensible layout - no problem.
Various Astras, Corsas, the Toledo - every now and then - CRUNCH!
Grrrr. Any tips bar the usual 'make sure you've stopped completely, hold the clutch down for a few seconds'.
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get a pewgot?........... ; )
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Any tips bar the usual 'make sure you've stopped completely, hold the clutch down for a few seconds'.
select 1st or 2nd gear, then reverse.
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Pretty much as DD says. Select any other gear first (I think I've used all four of mine) and it wont crunch. The handbooks will always say a few seconds, but in reality it needs to be somewhere in the region of 5-7, not ideal when in a hurry.
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My Suzuki van crunches sometimes going into reverse and that has the usual H-pattern.
I dont think it is to do with the shift pattern at all as ive driven as many with the H-pattern that crunch as those with dog-leg reverse.
Best dog-leg gearbox ive come across for not crunching into reverse are the older BMWs which dont have the lift-bar but just push down and across.
Prob the worst H-pattern one is the MGF and some of the smaller Rovers like the 200/400. It was sometimes impossible to get the MGF into reverse without a crunch. My 20 year old Mazda 323 still swaps cogs without a hint of a crunch and as such, is a pleasure to drive in that respect.
Ive found that being very gentle and fluid in the movement with the gearlever seems to help and rather than going diagonally across the gate, very deliberatly pushing the lever right out before pushing it down or up into reverse. Works for me.
I have noticed that with alot of modern gearboxes ( Toyota Yaris, Hyundai Coupe, Ford Fiesta.. ) that the gearboxes seem to be much clunkier and notchy than older cars were. Until my mums Hyundai is throughly warmed up after say 30 miles, its a pig to get in gear and do a fast shift.
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Cheers all - I'll try all the things mentioned and see how it goes.
Pains me to hear a finely machined gearbox grinding it's insides when there's nothing I can do to prevent it, apart from never reversing!
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Gearboxes with no synchro on reverse gear tend to crunch when you select reverse. I had a 1.8 Focus with the iB5 gearbox and that was terrible for it and used to annoy me something chronic. The bigger engined Focus and the Mondeo got the MTX-75 box which has a synchro on reverse and crunch at all. Tends to be smaller/cheaper cars that suffer with this.
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Is it actually bad for the gears or other mechanisms or am I being paranoid?
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I've owner 4 VWs and driven many more, never had a problem selecting reverse, second yes, reverse no. You may have a clutch problem.
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2 Dirty VW diesels and a Honda with an 18 inch blade
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A combination of holding the clutch down for longer, and going right across and up seems to have sorted this.
If it does again, I'll try the 'other gear first' method. Thanks!
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As Quinny says, it's all to do with the synchros,or rather, the lack of.
Putting it into any gear (I find first usually works best) then going into reverse has it first time.
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Maybe worth having the clutch bled at the next service. Also report the problems you're having as VW have changed the oil to an improved spec FOC in some cars with a problematic gear changes. Living with this problem is slowly destroying the gearbox.
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2 Dirty VW diesels and a Honda with an 18 inch blade
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That's interesting Dox - do you have a TSB number/reference?
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No I don't, but I know that some cars have had a free gearbox oil change, the main dealer had to phone VAG to authorise the change. Maybe a different gearbox but it does'nt hurt to ask. 5 or 6 speed? If its something as simple as bleeding the clutch why live with it and possibly destroy the gearbox?
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2 Dirty VW diesels and a Honda with an 18 inch blade
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It's a 5 speed box - is bleeding the clutch an easy job?
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The clutch uses the same fluid / reservoir as the brakes. Its not a difficult job but it has safety implications and so best left to the garage when servicing your car. About £20 on top of your service charge would be my estimate.
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2 Dirty VW diesels and a Honda with an 18 inch blade
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Ah...! Mine does this, (1.8 in a SEAT)
It's quite loud, I always feel slightly embarrassed when it does it in public in case people think it's me!
I didn't realise it was a known issue, will try the other gear first method and see if that works.
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This is not a gearbox problem (if it happens when the car is stationary) it is 'clutch drag'. If it happens when the clutch has been depressed for more than about 5s (to allow the input shaft to spin down) the you have a problem. The clutch is not fully disengaging - could be the centre plate sticking on its splines (typically does this mainly when its cold) or could be that the actuator mechanism is not fully releasing the plate - or could be the input shaft sticking in the pilot bearing (rare).
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