I'm finally going to replace the water pump as it is leaking quite fast now.
I understand there is a hole in the cylider block flange near the starter motor to insert a rod to lock the flywhell at TDC. I can't see it, is it beneath the air filter container and do I have to remove it?
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It is there, honest! There is a 'channel' along the bottom edge of the block behind the starter motor that leads to the hole. I use a piece of 8mm bar chamfered on the end, with about 4" bent at about 15°. You can then insert this whilst stood by the driver's wing so you can turn the engine over using the front wheel to find the hole. First time, you might find it easier to drop the starter off so you can see what you are aiming at!
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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Okay TVM. I didn't want to start stripping things off for nothing. I just cant see it , looks like air filter container is in the way.
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Hi,
If this is the XUD, I recall that the correct locking tool for the flywheel had a "dog-leg" bend in it, which, I recall, means that the hole is actually quite near the block. Hence not easy to find, but should be there, nevertheless! The tooll is also quite a tight fit in the hole, which might be bunged up with muck.
A torch and a "mirror on a stick" (inspection mirror) might help find it.
HTH
rg
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If you are removing the pump you will need to slacken off the jockey wheel. If, while you have gone this far, you decide to swop the cambelt, you will need to remove the bottom pulley I think. The only way to do this is to jam the starter ring, which means you will have to remove the starter.
If you are thinking of doing the cambelt, I'd remove the starter. Not difficult on the 309 diesel
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>The only way to do this is to jam the starter ring, which means >you will have to remove the starter.
Or I can get a helper to press the footbrake. The pulley has to come off to get the cover off.
>If you are thinking of doing the cambelt, I'd remove the >starter. Not difficult on the 309 diesel
I'm hoping to just do the pump, as the cam belt has another 25000 miles life in it. If I can't get to this hole in the flange, I guess I'll have to take the starter off, another job, sigh.
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>Or I can get a helper to press the footbrake. The pulley has to come off to get the cover off.
That will work - I have done it this way. Note that the bolt is *very* tight and you will need a decent (22mm for some reason!) socket and extension to get it undone. Refit with thread lock, and note the tightening sequence. Oh, and if the Pug is the same as older Citroens you will need a deep 16mm socket to get the engine mount off (I have a spark plug spanner that suits this job).
>I'm hoping to just do the pump, as the cam belt has another 25000 miles life in it.
You will have to take the belt off, and a new one is about £12 from a motor factors - it is simply not worth NOT changing it whilst you are there, given the amount of work to get it off!
Once you work out where the timing hole is, it is straight forward, but if your engine is oily, the hole can get blocked with carbonised oil (as I found on my Mate's Xantia) - then you have to take the starter off to clean the hole out.
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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I've done it, 'orrible job. My advice don't try it unless you have a very good tool kit and a trolly jack and an axle stand. The main difficulty I had was to prise over the spring loaded belt tensioner, that stumped me for a while. After getting the pump off I found the old gasket was cooked on and that also took a while to scrape it off properly. Now it's all back together there is a whirring whizzing noise which, could be something rubbing on the cover, or maybe the belt isn't adjusted properly, any suggestions. Could I have made a mistake with lining up the alternator belt? I presume the face of both pulleys are in line with each other so that the first groove on the alternator pully lines up with the first groove on the crank pulley.
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All sorted. The whizzing noise was the timing belt too tight.
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pullgees,
You have my sympathy; the first time I did mine it looked like I was a part-time bear wrestler, skinned knuckles, gashes up to my elbows, etc.
To move the tensioner back against the spring, there is 1/4 drive hole into which a bar fits. Mr Haynes describes this well. A 1/2 to 1/4 adapter works quite well, and makes it easier the second time.
rg
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Part time bear wrestler, yeah, that's right! LOL. My knuckles are also scratched and chaffed. I learnt how to do it though and I will at least from now on always change cam belts myself.
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